The morning we left Istanbul it was throwing it down. The heat had dropped a little, but the feeling was now one of a steaming sauna. Last night, before returning to our hotel, we had commandeered a taxi driver to pick us up from our hotel this morning – no time for the inclusive breakfast,…
The tram took us over the Golden Horn to Karaköy. My favourite way to cross is by boat, but the tram is faster. We began our day with a plan – to look for churches. Our reasoning was simple — wherever there was a church, there would once have been Greek houses. These were usually…
A visit to Agia Sophia in Istanbul, exploring its Byzantine past, layered history and enduring Greek connections.
Exploring Istanbul’s Asian side in Kadıköy, searching for Greek churches, old houses and traces of a past that still lingers in the streets.
Exploring Büyükada and its Greek connections, from churches and monasteries to old wooden houses that reflect the island’s past.
Exploring Fener and Balat in Istanbul, where colourful streets, historic buildings and layers of Greek, Jewish and Ottoman heritage meet.
A visit to Agia Irene followed by a Bosphorus cruise, with reflections on Istanbul’s contrasts and the realities of travel, including a scam encounter.
A visit to Istanbul’s Blue Mosque and Basilica Cistern, exploring their history, atmosphere and the realities of visiting these iconic sites.
An 8 week trip – Istanbul to Athens itinerary following a real route across the Aegean by ferry and bus, with practical detail and key stops along the way.
A continuous 8.5-week journey from Istanbul to Athens by ferry and public transport, crossing the Aegean via Marmara Adası, Çanakkale, Troy, Bozcaada, Gökçeada, Lesvos, Spetses, Ermioni and Nafplio. Every connection is real. No car required.
Every trip has a moment that becomes the one you remember most. For this one it was a table in Preveza, Papoutsakia, Greek salad and people who between them had served in Somalia, sailed the Ionian and cooked the meal. Before that there was a cargo ship, a pilot boat, a Gaza march on the harbour front and a very good fish taverna in a bougainvillea-shaded alley. This is how the Ionian Bound series ends.
After Zalongo, the day was far from over. Ioannis had arranged a meeting with a former presidential guard beneath a remarkable plane tree beside the Bridge of Arta. Then came the bridge itself, lunch on the lagoon at Koronissia, and the vast archaeological site of Ancient Nicopolis. A day that covered Roman triumphs, folk legends, Early Christian mosaics and a Stoic philosopher, all in the company of people who know this region better than any guidebook.
