Northern Aegean & Thrace: 6 Weeks from Evia to Alexandroupolis
This 6-week Northern Aegean and Thrace itinerary covers Evia, Lemnos, Agios Efstratios, Kavala, Xanthi, Samothrace and Alexandroupolis by ferry, bus and domestic flight. Best time: September-October. Highlights: Greece’s most remote inhabited island (almost), the Sanctuary of the Great Gods, Thrace’s multicultural heritage, Edipsos thermal springs. No car rental needed.
This journey takes you to corners of Greece that most visitors never see. From the thermal springs of Evia to the wild volcanic landscapes of Lemnos, from the tiny island of Agios Efstratios (population 270) to the ancient mysteries of Samothrace—this is Greece at its most authentic. The route follows the footsteps of St Paul, who sailed from Samothrace to Kavala (ancient Neapolis) on his way to Philippi.
Six weeks might sound like a long time, but this region rewards slow travel. The ferry connections require patience, the bus services run to their own rhythms, and the real treasures reveal themselves only to those who linger. This is a journey through the Northern Aegean and Thrace—regions where Greek, Ottoman, and Thracian cultures have layered over millennia to create something entirely unique.
What Makes This Itinerary Special
One of Greece’s Most Remote Inhabited Islands
Agios Efstratios sits in the middle of the Aegean with a population of just 270 people. There’s one village, one ferry connection, and virtually no tourists. This is almost as far off the beaten path as you can get in Greece.
Ancient Mysteries at Samothrace
The Sanctuary of the Great Gods was one of the ancient world’s most important religious sites—home to mystery rites that attracted pilgrims including Philip II of Macedon and the parents of Alexander the Great. The Winged Victory of Samothrace (now in the Louvre) once stood here.
Thrace’s Multicultural Heritage
Xanthi’s Old Town preserves Ottoman architecture alongside Byzantine churches. The clock tower was saved from demolition by the Muslim community. Soufli’s silk heritage tells the story of Greek industry’s rise and fall. This is a border region where cultures have always mixed.
Following in St Paul’s Footsteps
The Apostle Paul sailed from Samothrace to Neapolis (modern Kavala) and walked the Via Egnatia to Philippi, where he established Europe’s first Christian church. The UNESCO-listed ruins at Philippi bring this history to life.
Volcanic Landscapes and Golden Light
Lemnos is known as the Golden Island for its extraordinary light. The volcanic geology has created otherworldly rock formations, while Myrina’s fortress is the largest in the Aegean.
Thermal Springs and Healing Waters
Evia’s Edipsos has been a spa destination since ancient times—the thermal waters still flow hot from the rocks. Samothrace’s Therma offers similar healing springs in a wild mountain setting.
Designed for Public Transport
Every connection works without a car—ferries linking the islands, KTEL buses connecting the mainland towns, and domestic flights where needed. The journey requires patience but rewards with authentic experiences.
The Route at a Glance
Route: Athens → Evia (Pefki) → Artemida → Athens → Lemnos → Agios Efstratios → Kavala → Xanthi → Samothrace → Alexandroupolis → Athens
Duration: Approximately 6 weeks (September-October 2023)
Transport: Domestic flights, Aqua Blue ferry (Lavrio route), local ferries (Aeolis, Adamantios Korais), KTEL buses
Best Time: September-October offers warm weather, fewer crowds, and all ferry services still operating. Avoid winter when services reduce dramatically.
Who It’s For: Independent travellers seeking authentic Greece, history enthusiasts, archaeology lovers, those comfortable with slow travel and flexible schedules
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Destination-by-Destination Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Athens
A single night in Athens serves as the gateway to this northeastern adventure. After arriving at Athens Airport, the evening is best spent somewhere convenient for an early start—whether that’s central Athens with its familiar comforts, or closer to the airport if your onward connection demands an early departure.
Getting There: Flight to Athens International Airport. Metro, bus, or taxi to accommodation.
Where to Stay – Options: Attalos Hotel – my favourite hotel in Athens. Good budget hotel with rooftop terrace with Acropolis views. Close to almost everything.
Don’t Miss: If you have time, a wander through Monastiraki Square or along the Plaka pedestrian streets as the evening cools. Athens works well as a brief pause before heading into regions where the pace slows dramatically.
The Reality Check: This is purely functional—a place to rest before the journey begins. Don’t try to cram in sightseeing; save your energy for the weeks ahead.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus from Liosion Bus Station to Evia (Istiaia), or domestic flight to Lemnos if skipping Evia. Catch the bus in Athens and it takes you all the way to Istiaia including the boat journey from Arkitsa to Edipsos and beyond to Istiaia – or as I call it – the boat-bus thing.
Days 2-8: Evia (Pefki & Edipsos)
Northern Evia offers a quieter alternative to the more touristy Greek islands. Pefki has a 4km beach, a pleasant promenade, and enough tavernas to keep you fed for a week. The real highlight is the impromptu trip to Edipsos—a thermal spa town that has maintained its elegance where other Greek spa towns have faded.
Getting There: Bus from Athens (Liosion Bus Station) to Istiaia (€16), ferry from Arkitsa to Edipsos (€5, 45 minutes), bus to Istiaia, taxi to Pefki (€15).
Getting Around: Limited local transport. Taxi for day trips or join fellow travellers with cars.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Myrtia Hotel, Pefki – Budget-friendly with sea views toward Volos and Skiathos. Simple breakfast included.
Don’t Miss: Edipsos thermal spa and the grand spa hotel, Loutra Gialtra hot springs along the coast, the 4km beach at Pefki, sunset views from the hotel balcony. Also possible to do day trips to Skiathos – tourist boat from Pefki.
The Reality Check: Very limited bus service. Bus tickets back to Athens cannot be booked online from Istiaia—you must arrange locally based on ferry times.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus/ferry back to Athens area, overnight in Artemida near the airport before flying to Lemnos.
→ Initial Explorations of Pefki
→ An Impromptu Visit to Edipsos Thermal Spa
→ Leaving Pefki and on to Artemida
→ A Short Overlay in Artemida
Days 9-16: Lemnos
The Golden Island earns its name from the extraordinary quality of light that bathes its volcanic landscapes. Myrina, the main town, is dominated by the largest fortress in the Aegean—an Ottoman-era castle with spectacular views. The island rewards exploration: cave churches reached by precarious stone steps, villages with hand-carved stone houses, spherical rock formations created by molten lava hitting the sea.
Getting There: 45-minute flight from Athens to Lemnos. There are also ferry options.
Getting Around: Limited bus service. Car hire recommended for full exploration, or join tours.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Apollo Pavillion Hotel, Myrina – Balcony overlooking orchards of pomegranates, oranges, and quince and welcoming host.
Where to Eat:
• Kosmos Taverna – On Roman Shore with waves crashing and great sunset views
• Sinialo Taverna – Side street off the Market Place, popular with locals, fresh food, reasonable prices
• Sausage Village – Near Hotel Lemnos, local specialities
Don’t Miss: Myrina Fortress (the largest in the Aegean), Panagia Kakaviotissa cave church, Kontias village architecture, the spherical rock formations, Gomati Sand Dunes, WWII memorial on Roman Shore, Agia Triados church, Holy Trinity Bridge.
The Reality Check: Wear proper shoes for the fortress—paths are precarious with loose shingle. Public transport is limited; to see the island my host at the hotel was able to ‘procure’ a lovely lady – owner of a car hire company to take me around the island for the day – a very memorable experience. Info in the blog posts below.
Onward Travel Connection: Local ferry Aeolis to Agios Efstratios (departs 14:30, 2.5-hour journey). At the time the Aqua Blue also sailed this route but check updated schedules.
🏩 Book Apollo Pavillion Hotel here
→ Arrival on Lemnos – the Golden Island!
→ Lemnos, Exploring Myrina Fortress
→ A Whistle Stop Tour of Lemnos!
→ Lemnos, Final Reflections and on to Agios Efstratios
Days 17-21: Agios Efstratios
One of Greece’s most remote inhabited islands sits in the middle of the Aegean with a population of just 270 people. There is one village, rebuilt after a devastating 1968 earthquake destroyed the original settlement. The concrete-block architecture that replaced it was stark but has now been made beautiful, the island’s isolation and authenticity are its greatest treasures. This is as far off the beaten path as you can get in Greece.
Getting There: Ferry from Lemnos (Aeolis or Aqua Blue). Night arrivals are common.
Getting Around: Walkable. The island is small and the single village is the focus.
Where to Stay: To Akrogiali – pleasant studios a short walk from the beach and centre. Nothing on Booking.com so had to use my sleuth-like powers to track accommodations down. Very limited options—book ahead. Local guesthouses and rooms.
Don’t Miss: The stark beauty of isolation, walking the landscape, the archaeological remains, the authentic village life, watching the ferry arrive (the island’s connection to the outside world). The museum is said to be very interesting but it wasn’t open during my stay because of the local elections.
The Reality Check: This is genuinely remote. Ferry connections are infrequent and weather-dependent. There are virtually no tourists. Come prepared for simplicity and you’ll be rewarded.
Onward Travel Connection: Aqua Blue ferry to Kavala (approximately 4 hours from Lemnos).
→ Arrival on Agios Efstratios and Initial Explorations
→ Exploring Agios Efstratios Part Two
Days 22-25: Kavala
Returning to Kavala after 19 years was a stroll down memory lane. This port city has a magnificent old town (Panagia) climbing up to the Byzantine fortress, an Ottoman aqueduct spanning the hillside, and a history stretching back to when St Paul landed here on his way to Philippi. The UNESCO-listed archaeological site of Philippi—Europe’s first Christian church—is an easy day trip.
Getting There: Aqua Blue ferry from Agios Efstratios/Lemnos.
Getting Around: Walkable city centre. KTEL buses for day trips.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Hotel Esperia – good budget option close to the bus station, promenade and a short walk to all key sites.
Don’t Miss: The Kastro (fortress), Panagia old town, the Ottoman aqueduct, the lighthouse, the waterfront promenade.
Day Trips from Kavala:
• Philippi – UNESCO World Heritage Site, where St Paul established Europe’s first Christian church. Easy bus connection.
• Drama – Combine with Philippi for a full day exploring inland Thrace.
The Reality Check: The city has grown significantly—traffic and development have changed it, but the old town retains its character.
Onward Travel Connection: KTEL bus from Kavala to Xanthi (1 hour, €5-10).
→ Arrival in Kavala and a Stroll Down Memory Lane!
→ Exploring Ancient Philippi and a Bus Ride to Drama
Days 26-29: Xanthi
The “City of a Thousand Colours” or “Little Paris of Northern Greece”—Xanthi’s Old Town is an architectural jewel. Ottoman mosques stand alongside Byzantine churches, 19th-century tobacco mansions display ornate facades, and the cobblestone streets wind past the extraordinary House of Shadow art gallery. The clock tower in the main square was saved from demolition in 1972 after strong objections from the Muslim community—a reminder of this border region’s multicultural identity.
Getting There: 1-hour bus from Kavala.
Getting Around: Walkable. The Old Town is a 10-minute walk from the central square.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Airbnb near Platia Dimokratias (Democracy Square) for easy Old Town access.
Don’t Miss: The Old Town (designated a traditional settlement in 1978), House of Shadow art gallery, Platia Dimokratias and the 1870 clock tower, the tobacco mansions near the railway station, Hadjidakis House (birthplace of the composer), the Folk & History Museum.
Walks: The Path of Life – 6km trail along the Kosynthos River featuring metal sculptures and art installations.
The Reality Check: The Old Town Festival runs in September—plan around it if you want the festivities or quiet.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus to Alexandroupolis, then ferry to Samothrace.
→ Leaving Kavala and on to Xanthi
→ Xanthi – Step into the Marvellous House of Shadow
→ Xanthi – The Path of Life
Days 30-35: Samothrace
No visit to the Northern Aegean would be complete without Samothrace. The Sanctuary of the Great Gods was one of antiquity’s most important religious sites—home to mystery rites that attracted pilgrims from across the ancient world. The Winged Victory of Samothrace once stood here before being taken to the Louvre. Beyond the archaeology, the island offers wild mountain landscapes, thermal springs at Therma, and a pace of life that has barely changed in decades.
Getting There: Ferry from Alexandroupolis (Adamantios Korais).
Getting Around: Limited winter bus service. Car hire recommended (Kirkos Car Rental in Kamariotissa) for full exploration.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Aiolis accommodation, Kamariotissa – very hospitable hosts. Near local beehives and microbrewery.
Don’t Miss: Sanctuary of the Great Gods and Archaeological Museum at Paleopoli, Chora (the hilltop capital), Vathres – rock pools up in the hills, Therma thermal springs, Agios Andreas Lagoon (flamingos!), Antoniou Family Traditional Bakery in Chora (dating to 1853).
Villages to Explore: Profitis Ilias (highest village, 300m above sea level, famous for goat dishes), Lakoma.
Food Tip: Reserve bougatsa from the Kamariotissa bakery the day before—it sells out!
The Reality Check: The October bus timetable is very limited. Car hire makes exploration much easier but the roads are challenging. Weather can change quickly on this mountainous island.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry from Kamariotissa to Alexandroupolis.
🏩 Book Samothrace Accommodation here
→ Samothrace – Agios Andreas Lagoon
→ A Whistle Stop Tour of Samothrace
→ Exploring Samothrace Chora and the Temple of the Great Gods Part 1
→ Exploring Samothrace Chora and the Temple of the Great Gods Part 2
→ Car Hire Capers on Samothrace
→ Samothrace – The Villages of Profitis Ilias and Lakoma
Days 36-38: Alexandroupolis & Evros
Greece’s northeastern frontier city serves as the gateway to the Evros region—a land of silk heritage, border towns, and landscapes still recovering from devastating wildfires. The iconic lighthouse has watched over the waterfront since 1880. Day trips to Soufli reveal the extraordinary story of Greek silk production, while the multicultural dining scene (try the Armenian restaurant near the lighthouse) reflects this border region’s complex history.
Getting There: Ferry from Samothrace.
Getting Around: Walkable city centre. KTEL buses for day trips to Evros region.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Marianna Hotel walkable to bus station and port, central town location – lovely host.
Don’t Miss: The 1880 Lighthouse (symbol of the city), the waterfront promenade, Hovoli Armenian Restaurant.
Day Trips from Alexandroupolis:
• Soufli – The Silk Capital. 65km bus journey through landscape still showing 2023 wildfire damage. Multiple silk museums, the Folklore Museum (Gnafala), silk shops around the town square. Just 500m from the Turkish border.
• Evros Delta – Important wetland for birdwatching.
The Reality Check: The 2023 Evros wildfires devastated this region. The landscape is recovering but evidence remains visible. This is a border area—the Evros River marks the frontier with Turkey.
Onward Travel Connection: Flight or bus to Athens.
→ Soufli – It’s all about the Silk!
Days 39-42: Athens
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Hotel Attalos, Monastiraki – Reliable, central, with rooftop views of the Acropolis. A familiar base after weeks of unfamiliar places.
Getting Around: Metro, walking, or taxi. Athens is easy to navigate after the transport challenges of the northeast.
Don’t Miss: The rooftop bar at sunset with Acropolis views, a final taverna meal in Psyrri or Plaka, the Monastiraki flea market for last-minute gifts, simply sitting with a coffee and reflecting on where you’ve been.
The Reality Check: After weeks of remote islands and quiet Thracian towns, Athens will feel loud, fast, and overwhelming but I find it’s always the icing on the cake after another amazing trip. Give yourself time to adjust. These final days are as much about mental transition as physical travel.
Onward Travel Connection: Metro from Monastiraki to Athens Airport, or taxi (approximately €40).
Budget
Total Cost: £2650
(43 Days, Solo Traveller – September-October 2023)
This includes flights, accommodation, ferries, and intercity buses. It does NOT include daily meals, local transport within towns, activities, museum entries, car hire on Samothrace, or sundries.
What’s Included:
✈️ International Flights: £381.12
Manchester → Athens (Aegean): £169.12
Athens → Manchester (Easyjet): £212.00
✈️ Domestic Flights: €175
Athens → Lemnos (Aegean): €85
Alexandroupolis → Athens: €90
🏨 Accommodation: €2,249 (42 nights)
- Athens: 1 night (€100) – Hotel Attalos
- Pefki, Evia: 7 nights (€280) – Mirtia Hotel B&B
- Athens (near airport): 1 night (€75) – Airport layover
- Lemnos: 8 nights (€380) – Myrina
- Agios Efstratios: 5 nights (€255) – To Akrogiali
- Kavala: 4 nights (€244) – Hotel Esperia
- Xanthi: 4 nights (€225) – Airbnb, city centre
- Samothrace: 6 nights (€240) – Kamariotissa
- Alexandroupolis: 3 nights (€150) – Marianna Hotel
- Athens: 3 nights (€300) – Hotel Attalos
⛴️ Ferries: €51
- Lemnos → Agios Efstratios (Aqua Blue): €7
- Agios Efstratios → Kavala (Aqua Blue): €26
- Alexandroupolis → Samothrace (Adamantios Korais): €9
- Samothrace → Alexandroupolis: €9
🚌 Buses: €86.10
- Athens (Liosion) → Istiaia, Evia: €30
- Istiaia → Athens (Liosion): €30
- Kavala → Xanthi: €15.10
- Xanthi → Alexandroupolis: €11
🚕 Taxis: €30
- Hotel Attalos → Liosion Bus Terminal: €30
What’s NOT Included:
- Daily meals and drinks (budget €20-35/day)
- Local transport within towns and islands
- Car hire on Samothrace (recommended for exploration)
- Museum and archaeological site entries
- Day trips (Philippi, Drama, Soufli, Therma)
- Taxi from Athens Airport to hotel
- Sundries
The Bottom Line:
Six weeks exploring Greece’s forgotten northeast for just over £380 plus €2,600. That’s approximately €62 per day covering flights, ferries, buses, and comfortable accommodation across nine different locations. The Northern Aegean and Thrace reward slow travel—and prove that even extended journeys through remote regions remain remarkably affordable. The real luxury here isn’t money spent; it’s time invested in places most visitors never see.
Is This Trip Right for You?
This itinerary is perfect if you:
• Want to explore Greece far beyond the tourist trail
• Are fascinated by ancient history and archaeology
• Appreciate multicultural heritage and border regions
• Are comfortable with slow travel and ferry schedules
• Value authenticity over convenience
• Love photography (the light and landscapes are extraordinary)
Think twice if you:
• Need reliable, frequent transport connections
• Prefer tourist infrastructure and English-language services
• Want beach holidays (beaches exist but aren’t the focus)
• Are uncomfortable with remote locations and limited facilities
• Prefer shorter trips with easier logistics
Final Thoughts
Six weeks. Seven destinations. One extraordinary journey through Greece’s forgotten northeast.
This trip took me to places that rarely appear in guidebooks—the thermal springs of Evia, the golden light of Lemnos, the stunning isolation of Agios Efstratios, the ancient mysteries of Samothrace. It followed in the footsteps of St Paul, walked through Ottoman old towns, and witnessed the revival of silk heritage in Soufli and in a region recovering from devastating fires.
The Northern Aegean and Thrace demand patience. Ferries don’t always run. Buses follow their own logic. Connections require flexibility and sometimes overnight stays in unexpected places. But this is precisely what makes the region so rewarding. Without the crowds and infrastructure of more popular destinations, you encounter Greece as it actually lives—in cafes where nobody speaks English, in villages where your arrival is an event, in archaeological sites where you might be the only visitor.
Would I return? Without question. There are more islands to discover in the Northern Aegean, more Thracian towns to explore, more of this extraordinary region to understand. Greece beyond the beaches—beyond even the famous islands—is a revelation. And the northeast is where that revelation becomes most profound.
