Every trip has a moment that becomes the one you remember most. For this one it was a table in Preveza, Papoutsakia, Greek salad and people who between them had served in Somalia, sailed the Ionian and cooked the meal. Before that there was a cargo ship, a pilot boat, a Gaza march on the harbour front and a very good fish taverna in a bougainvillea-shaded alley. This is how the Ionian Bound series ends.
Before returning to the apartment to pack, we collared a taxi driver in Vathy’s main square and arranged for him to take us to the port the following morning. After completing the tedious deed of re-packing, we sat on the balcony soaking up the view over Vathy for one last time. Tonight, the town was…
Today we have arranged a tour of the north of the island booked with Ithaca Travel. After grabbing a bougatsa from the bakery, we made our way to the office to wait for our guide. Stefania looked a little flustered that morning. It was almost like she’d forgotten we’d booked a tour, even though it…
Sunday announced itself with the pealing of bells from across the bay. As soon as a set of chimes from one church ended, another from another direction began. I’d already lost track of the days, but now there was no mistake that the day of worship had arrived. The warm egg-yolk yellow light from the…
No sooner had we unpacked than we were out and ready to explore Vathy. We began by taking an alley one row behind the waterfront, lined with old stone houses. Brightly coloured rugs hung from balconies, gently airing in the breeze. There is just the right mixture of patina and decay, which, of course, adds…
This morning we leave Kefalonia for Ithaca (or Ithaka if you prefer!). With freshly baked bougatsas in hand, we take the side street next to Fatto a Mano bakery, which brings us directly to the harbour front. Waiting is the ferry Ionio Pelagos, engines thrumming and the faintest whiff of smoke from the funnel. Habitually…
