A Visit to the Zagori National Park with Epirus Traveller

Whilst in Ioannina, one of my ‘must do’s’ was to visit the Zagori National Park. I’m a real chicken when it comes to driving in Greece so this was never going to be an option, especially where precipitous mountain passes may be involved. For so long I’d dreamt of seeing the atmospheric stone bridges and the Vikos Gorge that it would be a travesty not to be able to do this during my stay.

The tourist office was unable to recommend a tour operator as they needed to remain impartial. So where to begin finding the type of tour I was looking for? I found several travel agencies and tour operators in the town but only one went to Zagori and it would be dependent on numbers. I was asked to come back and check again which I did several times over the week. I was now getting desperate as my ten days were being eaten up at a pace. I went into a Googling frenzy trying to find any means of getting to the Zagori National Park. Thankfully I came across Epirus Traveller. I fired over an email explaining that I only had a handful of days left in the area and please, pretty please take me to see the Zagori National Park. I’d be happy with even a fleeting glance at a stone bridge!

I received a swift response which was in the affirmative. Yes, they could provide me with a private tour on Saturday. They would send me further information later. Pheww What a relief! Several email exchanges later, arrangements were made for a pick-up at Mavili Square at 9 am, the day after tomorrow.

Saturday morning came quickly. I’m habitually early for everything which gave me plenty of time for a slice of bougatsa and a cup of tea from the patisserie at the back of the lake. From Mavili Square I watched the early morning mist lift from the lake revealing yet another of its many faces. Every time you look at the lake it is different like an ethereal life form or shape-shifter.

Just before 9 am a people carrier arrived and out stepped my guide Ioannis. After introductions, we headed off through the suburbs of Ioannina town full of excitement and anticipation (me – not Ioannis!)

It didn’t take long to see that Ioannis had a wide knowledge of the area and to boot he was a former officer in the Presidential Guard (Oooh, pass me a fan!) and as a trainer, he used to put the Evzones through their paces. It was clear that I was in safe hands! As well as the guided tour, Ioannis told me that he would take photographs and videos throughout the day. Now, apart from the very occasional selfie, I’m a reluctant photographic subject. I don’t think humans draped over monuments do anything to enhance the picture but today I will go with the flow. I don’t have many photographs of myself whilst travelling so this will make a nice change.

Zagori is a Slavic word from Za (behind) and Gora (mountain). The Slavs came to Epirus in approximately in 5th-6th centuries, where they lived in the mountains surrounding Ioannina. Most of them left Ioannina during the Ottoman occupation 15-20th centuries.

Zagori is divided into 3 areas – Northwest, Central and Northeast and is one of the most popular places in Greece for hiking with 160 miles of trails.

Our first port of call was the first single-arched stone bridge of the trip. Just off the central road to Zagori and nestled between the villages of Koukouli (meaning pine cones), Dilofo (two hills) and Kipoi (gardens) is the Bridge of Noutsos or Kokkoris. It spans the Voidomatos River and is the borderline between the first and the main part of Vikos Gorge. Today the riverbed is dry. There are 46 villages in mountainous Zagori, many of which used to be completely cut off by rivers or mountains. You have to imagine it without the modern roads in place to get the picture.

In the 18th century, the stone bridges were a necessary addition to the villages. They facilitated the movement of goods between villages and trade with the commercial centre of Ioannina. They also enabled farmers to move their livestock to new pastures. The bridges were often funded by wealthy benefactors who in return would have the new construction named after them. The Bridge of Noutsos – Kokkoris was founded in 1750 by local notable, Noutsos Kontodimos. His son took on some maintenance of the bridge but a major restoration was carried out in 1910 by Gregorios Kokkoris (and various spellings thereof) giving the bridge its additional name.

It takes a highly skilled craftsman to build an arched construction such as a bridge. The craftsmen were known as Kioproulides and they were adept at working with the local stone known as schist, the metamorphic stone found in abundance in this region. Ioannis told me that the mortar that bound the stones together was made from ground-up stone, soil and grass with egg whites acting as glue. As strange as this may sound, the proof is in the pudding so to speak.

There is something unusual about this particular bridge. On either side of the river are two large rocks (challenging rock climbing destination for some) each with a narrow ledge. The bridge was constructed to take advantage of this ledge and instead of being completely straight, forms a curve from the path onto the edge of the bridge. It’s a beautiful piece of architecture and set amongst the backdrop of the autumnal leaves, the view is truly stunning.

I was happy to admire the bridge from the roadside and maybe even from the path leading up to the bridge but Ioannis had other ideas. “OK, you walk to the middle of the bridge and I will photograph you!” he said. Err, say what! (that’s the less sweary version of what was on the tip of my tongue). The vertigo monster that lives in my head told me not to do it and sent that churning sensation to my stomach as a reminder of what heights do to me. Another part of me told me to put my big girl pants on and do it. I’d regret it if I didn’t after all, this has been a bucket list item since forever!

I told Ioannis that I had vertigo and I was nervous, but he had a way of making me know that everything would be alright. After all, if he can put the Evzones through their paces he can certainly coax an old lady across a stone bridge!

I won’t lie, I had to summon up every last inch of courage to even step out onto the bridge. If the parapet had been higher it wouldn’t have been so bad but here it was no higher than my knees (or so it seemed). As soon as I was conscious of being above the river bed, weird feelings began to engulf me, but I continued. The next challenge was to walk over the raised hump in the centre of the bridge. I attempted to look only on my feet but couldn’t help but glance sideways. I began to feel a bit dizzy and exposed but I’d committed myself now and needed to complete the mission – and I did!

All I wanted to do now was get back onto terra firma but just as I was about to make the descent to the other side Ioannis called for me to stop. “Stay in the middle and raise your arms in the air!” Christ on a bike, how was I going to do this? I somehow managed to convince my feet to turn sideways, I lifted my arms and plastered a grimace on my face whilst Ioannis snapped away. I couldn’t get off that bridge fast enough!

Despite the trauma, I was exhilarated and so glad that I had someone to push me to do it!

Closeby is a trail that very occasionally is used by bears. I asked Ioannis if he’d ever seen a bear whilst hiking in Epirus. He has but only from a distance. It is very rare to see them.

As we walked back to the car, we stopped at a roadside stall where a lady was selling products made from the Sea Buckthorn plant. The Hippophaes of Zagori, is a local business located in the village of Fragkades, where this superfood is cultivated and processed. I really could have done with an ouzo after the bridge experience (though Ioannis said I should be drinking tsipouro when in Ioannina!) but the lady kindly offered me a sample of the tea made from the leaves of the plant. The tea as well as being full of antioxidants is said to have a calming effect and aids a restful sleep. The dried berries of the sea buckthorn, are said to give you a boost. Great, something to get me going in the morning and another thing to knock me out at the end of the day – perfect – I bought one of each!

www.hippophaes-zagoriou.gr/

Back on the road, we made a short stop to view the Vradeto Steps the longest stone trail in Greece and a popular hiking trail that starts from Kapesovo village and ends at Vradeto village. Here you can continue to Beloi viewpoint of Vikos Gorge. Vradeto is located on Mount Tymfe and is the highest settlement in Zagori built at an altitude of 1350 metres. Until 1973, the steps were the only way in and out of the village. The 1200 steps run to the neighbouring village of Kapesovo along a trail of 2.7 km and over an elevation of 342 metres. There are 39 turns and you will pass 2 stone bridges. Mmmm, maybe I’ll do this hike when I come back to Epirus.

A short drive away is the 16th-century village of Kapesovo, just one of the villages in Zagori that retains its Slavic name. Here we make a short stop at the Graditsa – Vikos viewing point where we can see further hiking trails cut by the Messaria Gorge in the north and the Vikos Gorge in the west. The trail that leads to Kato Graditsa will take you through the Holy Forest where there are ancient oak and maple trees. Unfortunately, invasive species are destroying the native trees and despite protective measures, the forest is much depleted.

Kapesovo is a beautiful village with a population of around 50 surrounded by orchards. The village is unique in the fact that the locals have ancient Greek names such as Plato, Achilles and Xerxes. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, the locals had a classical education where they would study the works of ancient philosophers and writers. Secondly, it was a way to retain their Greek identity, as a backlash against the Ottoman occupation. The village also has a rich pedigree of producing notable artists and in particular distinguished hagiographers.

This is a place that I would like to have lingered a little longer. The type of place that I could lock myself away in for winter and be quite happy. Maybe one day.

The next pit stop is at the charming village of Koukouli which is home to a tiny population of around 10 people in winter. Koukouli was one of the wealthiest villages and home to many benefactors who financed the stone bridges in central Zagori such as Kokkoris-Noutsos, Plakida, Lazaridis and Misios. The tall multi-storey houses give an indication of the wealth of the village.

We were here to stop for a refreshment break but the cafe was closed. This gave me time to have a brief look around. There’s an interesting little museum here which is also unfortunately closed. I read later that it can be opened by appointment. Kostas Lazaridis was a teacher and naturalist who accrued a prolific collection of the local flora from the Vikos Valley. The Kostas Lazaridis Museum (his ancestral family home) houses his collection of dried flowers displayed with his handwritten notes. There is also a collection of folkloric stories from the area. This is (or would have been) right up my street. Not to worry, another place to come back and visit next time. Interestingly Mr Lazaridis’s studies into the medicinal properties of the plants inspired the cafe to develop a range of botanical drinks.

Before we headed on to our next destination, Ioannis fell into conversation with a couple from Skopje who were about to start a hike. Ioannis was able to give them precise directions on where to find the start of the trail, an area that he knows like the back of his hand. They were very grateful for the information though they were also tactfully corrected when they said they were from Macedonia instead of Northern Macedonia. Greeks especially those that have served their country for over 3 decades take these things seriously!

We are back in the car heading to the Kontodimos-Lazaridis Bridge located between Koukouli and Kipi villages. The bridge is believed to have been built in around 1764 by Tolis Kontodimos and the second part of its name pays homage to Kostas Lazaridis previously mentioned.

As we mosey on over to look at the bridge I know what’s coming next but do my best to distract myself and Ioannis by pointing out the beautiful cyclamen growing along the wayside. It didn’t work. “OK, walk onto the bridge whilst I take a photograph” he says. I really wasn’t sure about this one. This bridge is 6.5 metres high – about the height of one and a half double-decker buses (though it definitely doesn’t look that high in the photograph). However, the parapet is virtually non-existent. I mean, there are sporadic stumps along both sides but these are purely for decoration. There was nothing to balance me or to stop me from potentially plummeting over the edge. It’s a pretty bridge but I’m just not sure I want to walk across it. Anyway, Ioannis in his friendly and yet no-nonsense way gave me the swift kick up the backside that I needed.

I made it to the middle of the bridge but then I froze. My feet wouldn’t turn, I literally couldn’t move. On this occasion, Ioannis had to come and get me and walk me off the bridge. Damn you vertigo!

Before we left the bridge Ioannis pointed out the markers on the rock face and told me that this is another destination for climbers who scale the full height of the rock. Oh good for them! 😍

We are now back in the car heading for yes – you’ve guessed it – another bridge. I wanted bridges and I’m getting bridges and this beauty is often the ‘poster girl’ for many marketing materials featuring Zagori.

The Plakida – Kalogeriko Bridge is a three-arched bridge built in 1814 in the same spot where wooden bridges had previously existed. It was funded by a monk from the nearby Vitsa Monastery. Kalogeros meaning monk gave it one of its two names. Its second name is attributed to Alexis Plakidas, a local man responsible for major repair works on the bridge in 1863.

The bridge spans 56 metres across the Voidomatis River and is known affectionately as the moving caterpillar. This bridge is also 6.5 metres high and also doesn’t have much in the way of a parapet. There are also more visitors which until now Ioannis had skillfully managed to avoid. I’ll give it a go anyway.

I didn’t walk the full expanse of the bridge but I did make my way to the middle. Other visitors could sense my near hysteria and very kind stepped to the edge when I passed by. I stuck to the middle with my eyes firmly on my feet daring not to look either side pausing only for a brief photographic interlude before getting off. Well, three bridges out of the 80 – 90 still standing in the Zagori region isn’t a bad start and maybe (just maybe) I feel a little bit braver for it!

Now we’re off to the village of Monodendri. Here there are two interesting museums both of which pay tribute to Manthos and Georgios Rizarios, brothers from the village who made their wealth through commerce in Russia. They made substantial contributions towards the Greek War of Independence. They also established a charitable foundation which has funded many projects including ones in Monodendri. The first museum is The Rizarios Centre for Exhibition in Zagoria which primarily focuses on the photographic heritage of the region but we are going to visit the other one.

In the centre of the village in a renovated mansion is the Rizarios Craft Centre and School of Crafts. As the name alludes, the project has two arms to it. The first is the School of Handcrafts. It was established in 1979 to keep the legacy of traditional crafts alive. They also want to provide opportunities for young women. The school offers a 2 year-long apprenticeship in a wide range of handicrafts. The young women travel to the school from Ioannina City Monday to Friday. Once the students have graduated they work on a casual basis for the school. The second part of the project is the showroom and shop exhibiting the local traditional crafts that have been produced.

Over two floors there are examples of beautiful woven rugs, intricate embroidery, and handmade silver jewellery. There are embroidered bags and scarves, wedding favours, pillowcases and cushions, all made with patience and skill. Exhibited on the first floor is a traditional weaving loom and a collection of mannequins displaying contemporary and traditional apparel.

After leaving the craft centre we stay in Monodendri for a refreshment break at Pita Tis Kikitsas in the central square of the village. This is as many people that we’ve seen today, again a testament to Ioannis’s skill at avoiding the masses at each of the sites. I don’t usually eat at lunchtime but Ioannis had recommended a dish of giant beans and spinach that was traditional to the area. Mmmm – it was delish!

Before leaving the village we briefly popped our heads into the Church of Agios Athanasios, a pretty stone church with vibrant frescoes and a beautiful bell tower. Close to the entrance is a sign that says that in 1969 the film Anaparastasi (Reconstruction) was filmed in Monodendri. The director Theodore Angelopoulos is one of Greece’s most renowned directors. Reconstruction was his first feature film, a black-and-white drama based on a real-life event that took place in Epirus. Amongst many other awards, the film won first prize in the Thessaloniki Film Festival and a FIPRESCI prize in Berlin. Another film on my list (if I can get hold of it!).

Now for something a bit different. In between Monodendri and our next destination are the incredible rock formations of the Stone Forest. Overlooking the Vikos Gorge and surrounded by oak and maple forests are huge towers of layered karstic rock that resemble sheets of filo pastry. This type of landscape is formed by the erosion of the limestone by the elements over millions of years. Of course, humans can’t help but leave their mark on the landscape and hundreds of stone towers have been created from fragments of stone.

Here we bump into the young couple from Skopje again. Ioannis tells them that it is a tradition for the man to build a tower for his loved one. Apparently, the higher that tower, the more love is shown. Like a relationship, the towers need to be nurtured and cared for and the man has the responsibility to maintain and care for their tower. I don’t know if our Northern Macedonian friend made his girlfriend a tower but I like to think that he did, even if it was in his dreams.

Now onto the (almost) finale of the day and as if my vertigo had already been tested to the limit, it was about to get kicked off the charts! To even begin to grasp the magnificence of the Vikos Gorge, you need to visit one of the many viewing points. From the roadside, a sign says that the Oxia viewpoint is 100 metres ahead. This is one of the deepest parts of the gorge. After a section with a precipitous and unprotected drop, there is a balcony of a reasonable height. I was able to gradually edge myself towards the wall just enough to grab a snap. The photographs in no way begin to show how high we are. In all truth, it is enough to know that I was here and able to embrace the experience.

There are several other visitors from different nationalities here with whom Ioannis strikes up conversations. He asked various people where they were from and they in response identified as Danish, German and North Macedonian (correct!). One couple asked Ioannis where he was from to which he responded emphatically “I am a Greek God!” which gives everyone a chuckle. Ioannis has a wonderful way with people that can put them at ease instantaneously and I can see that he is a bit of a showman!

When Ioannis commanded me into position for my next photo call on the edge of the balcony, he tactfully manoeuvred others out of the shot. It shows his commitment to ensuring that his guests (he doesn’t like the term ‘tourist’) get the most out of the experience.

The tour is nearly at an end and back in the car, we begin to head back towards Ioannina Town. We passed the village of Vitsa and a small herd of alpine cows with large bells on their neck grazing along the roadside. Ioannis pointed out the unusual landscape where the mountainside looks like dripping candle wax, a result of the soft limestone and the harsh elements.

We have one more stop to make. Close to the village of Aspragelli is the emotive Monument to the Zagorian Women of Pindos. This monument pays homage to the bravery of the women who supported the Greek soldiers during the battles in the Pindus mountains during WW2.

In the autumn of 1940, the Italian army prepared to invade Greece to enable them to set up operations in strategic locations like Ioannina with its airport and Preveza because of the port. Access through Metsovo would give them access to Athens via Thessaly but it would be a treacherous route through the mountains. They had thought that entering Greece through the Pindus mountain range would be easy having trained in the Alps. The Greek army formed a robust defence of the territory in remote parts of the Pindus mountains. When the Italian army approached, the Greeks were able to push them back into Albanian territory with force. What eventually followed is well documented and a famous part of recent Greek history. Mussolini issued President Metaxas with an ultimatum to allow the Italian army access through Greece or go to war. The response of course was “Oxi” which subsequently initiated Greece’s participation in WW2. Although this part of history is well known, the crucial part that the women played is less so.

The remote mountain passes especially during winter made the supply of weapons and food to the Greek soldiers challenging. It was the women (and sometimes children) of Pindus who stepped into the breach and who transported goods on their backs up through the treacherous mountain passes. Their bravery and risk to their own lives were integral to Greece’s success in keeping the Italian invasion at bay.

What a perfect end to a very memorable day!

This has been an incredible day. I’ve traversed not one, but three stone bridges. I’ve walked through landscapes where bears occasionally roam and places with Slavic names. I’ve visited several mountain villages all of which are rich in history and culture. I’ve wandered through the most spectacular landscapes with interesting geology and an abundance of flora. I’ve been gently pushed to step out of my comfort zone and although my vertigo will probably stay with me for life, I’ve done things that I never would have done on my own. This is all thanks to wonderful Ioannis.

Ioannis’s expertise, kindness, sense of humour and encouragement made today very special. His local knowledge added so much more to the experience than if I’d done it independently. Even though I have only dipped my toe into what Epirus has to offer, it has given me a thirst for more and I will be back! I arrived as a guest and left the day with a friend. Next time – the National Park of Tzoumerka!

And finally – here is me striking some very awkward poses! 😍