A Walk from Lakka to Loggos

I threw the balcony doors open to be greeted by a bright beautiful morning and the smell of freshly baked bread. The sweet heady aroma wafted its way up from Robolas Bakery which sits just below my balcony – what better alarm clock! A couple of locals were already sitting outside drinking from steaming cups of thick black coffee. There is a slight touch of autumn chill in the air – perfect for walking. Today I’m going to Loggos.

I called into the bakery to purchase a slice of bougatsa still warm from the oven and took the eastern road out of the village. There were barely any cars on the road, meaning I could walk down the middle of it carefree. It’s 4km from Lakka to Loggos so it should be an easy walk even for an unfit 65 year old like me!

As I reached the outer limits of Lakka, I passed a cluster of chickens by the roadside scratching and pecking at the dry earth without a care in the world. They didn’t even run for cover as I passed.

Further along, I passed a villa or two set back from the road. If you look at Paxos on Google Maps satellite view you will see that the island is littered with villas highlighted by the bright blue of the swimming pools. Many of them are hidden amongst the olive groves, which I’m sure suits visiting celebrities and the well-heeled who want their privacy. Paxos doesn’t only cater for the upmarket visitor (or why would I be there!) but it offers something for every budget.

Sitting alongside the upmarket villas, the island retains a very traditional feel. Old tumble-down cottages dotted along the roadside seemingly abandoned for decades ooze traditional charm. I can’t help but admire the intricate stonework of the masonry and I wondered how many craftsmen still practice this skill on the island today.

As I followed the winding road both up hill and down dale, I found myself caught up in another nature hunt. The luminous pink and yellow Lantana flower with its black berries had managed to push its way through the surrounding scrub as if to say ‘I’m here! Look at me!’. Wherever I looked there are swathes of pink cyclamen forming a thick blanket. They grow so abundantly here providing beautiful autumn colour.

I soon arrived in the village of Loggos which is the smallest of the three main villages of the island. Heading towards the seafront I pass the Old School House which hosts the annual International Classical Music Festival. This event has been taking place here since 1986 during late August and early September. It’s almost like a storyline from Maestro in Blue! It had also recently hosted a photography exhibition entitled 40 Years of Paxos Photography which unfortunately had finished several weeks earlier. Various other cultural events take place throughout the year here.

The houses are painted in the bright Venetian colours of warm terracotta, yellow, pink and blue, the cracks and patina proudly on show. Down by the harbour there are several tourists sitting in the cafe bars. A fisherman is selling his morning catch to the locals. There are a couple of yachts here but certainly not to the same extent that I’d seen in Gaios or Lakka. It feels much more laid back here.

After stopping at a cafe for a tea, I walked further around the bay to Levrechio Beach. The beach is completely deserted. There are a few signs of life at the taverna behind the beach but only staff by the looks of things. I stayed for a little while before heading back to the square to see if I could catch the bus.

I calculated what time to expect the bus by my journey the previous day. It seemed to be much later today. Eventually, I could see the bus edging its way along the narrow harbour’s edge. As it approached I raised my arm to the driver to indicate that I wanted to board but he sailed right past me without stopping. This was rather annoying as there wasn’t going to be another bus that day. The good thing to come out of this though was that I found a taxi that not only proved to be very reliable but who were lovely people to deal with. Christos Taxi’s with Aglaia and her daughter Chrysa were fab. 00 30 6977 472 747

Later that evening back in Lakka I decided to dine at Stasinos Garden Restaurant. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photographs of the garden where I’d taken a table but the food and service was top notch!

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