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30+ years exploring Greece, 15 years sharing the journey by blog
  • A Dawn Walk to Leros’ Windmills: Alinda to Platanos and Pandeli, Plus a Farewell Visit to Archontiko Angelou
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    A Dawn Walk to Leros’ Windmills: Alinda to Platanos and Pandeli, Plus a Farewell Visit to Archontiko Angelou

    ByStephanie Banks 31 July 20192 December 2025

    When I arrived on Leros a few days ago, the taxi had mistakenly taken me to Pandeli.  The upside of this was that I got a glimpse of the Leros windmills sitting majestically on top of the hill.  Today I’m going to refresh my memory of them from 18 years ago, so this morning I…

    Read More A Dawn Walk to Leros’ Windmills: Alinda to Platanos and Pandeli, Plus a Farewell Visit to Archontiko AngelouContinue

  • From Alinda’s Hills to Lakki’s Italian Streets: A Day of Walking, Buses & Beaches on Leros
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    From Alinda’s Hills to Lakki’s Italian Streets: A Day of Walking, Buses & Beaches on Leros

    ByStephanie Banks 29 July 20192 December 2025

    On my second day on Leros I decide to walk to Lakki.  Now I do remember Lakki because all those years ago we had to catch our ferry from there to our next destination and I remember it’s very distinctive Italianesque architecture.  The bus does go to Lakki but I still haven’t worked out where…

    Read More From Alinda’s Hills to Lakki’s Italian Streets: A Day of Walking, Buses & Beaches on LerosContinue

  • Farewell Arki and on to Leros
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    Farewell Arki and on to Leros

    ByStephanie Banks 28 July 201917 February 2022

    It is time to leave Arki.  My hosts Stami and Niko are still on Patmos so I arrange to pay for my room with Niko’s mama Georgia.  She phones Niko to translate.  I have 250€ in cash that I put aside as there is no cash machine on the island and no way to make…

    Read More Farewell Arki and on to LerosContinue

  • Settling into the Rhythm of Arki
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    Settling into the Rhythm of Arki

    ByStephanie Banks 27 July 201917 February 2022

    After my long walks across the island to Tiganakia Beach and beyond Limnari Beach, I feel it’s only right that I do what I set out to on Arki and that’s relax.  I’m not really a beach person – don’t get me wrong I do love a beautiful beach but I struggle to spend all…

    Read More Settling into the Rhythm of ArkiContinue

  • Arki – the Island that Broke my Shoes!
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    Arki – the Island that Broke my Shoes!

    ByStephanie Banks 26 July 201914 August 2023

    I arrive on Arki from Patmos on the Dodekanisos Pride or as I’ve come to call her – the Bouncy Bouncy.  The thing I love about the Dodek fleet is the way the crew help you on board with your luggage and have it all lined up for you when you disembark.  I know this…

    Read More Arki – the Island that Broke my Shoes!Continue

  • A Flying Visit to Patmos – Door Knocker Paradise
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    A Flying Visit to Patmos – Door Knocker Paradise

    ByStephanie Banks 24 July 201917 February 2022

    It was late evening by the time I arrived at the Port of Patmos.  Unbeknown to me the hotel that I’m staying at has a transfer service.  I guess I’m not used to this kind of luxury and hoik my luggage to the hotel regardless. Elen greets a bedraggled and exhausted me at reception and…

    Read More A Flying Visit to Patmos – Door Knocker ParadiseContinue

  • Fourni Reflections: Seven Days of Local Life, Old-School Hospitality, Steep Steps, Quiet Beaches & A Warm Farewell
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    Fourni Reflections: Seven Days of Local Life, Old-School Hospitality, Steep Steps, Quiet Beaches & A Warm Farewell

    ByStephanie Banks 22 July 20192 December 2025

    Fourni wasn’t what I expected.  I imagined it to be much more low key – maybe not as quiet as Agathonisi but from the moment I arrived on the chaotic ferry journey on the Nissos Chios it was clear that this is a lively island. Saying that, we’re not talking Santorini here –nor anything like…

    Read More Fourni Reflections: Seven Days of Local Life, Old-School Hospitality, Steep Steps, Quiet Beaches & A Warm FarewellContinue

  • A Day Trip to Thymena from Fourni: Stone Steps, Fishing Huts, Hilltop Churches & a Swim in a Quiet Cove
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    A Day Trip to Thymena from Fourni: Stone Steps, Fishing Huts, Hilltop Churches & a Swim in a Quiet Cove

    ByStephanie Banks 17 July 201910 April 2026

    Across the straights from Fourni you will be able to see the small settlement on Thymena (sometimes spelt Thimaina/Thymaina and other variations of) so close you feel like you can almost touch it.  You will see a cluster of whitewashed houses set amphitheatrically (becoming an overused word!) on the hillside with a small mountain looming…

    Read More A Day Trip to Thymena from Fourni: Stone Steps, Fishing Huts, Hilltop Churches & a Swim in a Quiet CoveContinue

  • Exploring Fourni on Foot: Kampi Beach, the Windmills, and a Taxi Adventure to Chrysomilia Village
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    Exploring Fourni on Foot: Kampi Beach, the Windmills, and a Taxi Adventure to Chrysomilia Village

    ByStephanie Banks 17 July 20192 December 2025

    Although Kampos is the centre of everything on Fourni, I’m keen to get out and explore.  However, I’m still a bit chicken when it comes to driving in Greece plus I’m not sure that the cost of hiring a car and the stress on my nerves is worth it! 🙂 I know that if I…

    Read More Exploring Fourni on Foot: Kampi Beach, the Windmills, and a Taxi Adventure to Chrysomilia VillageContinue

  • Arriving on Fourni: First Impressions of Kampos Village, Mulberry Streets, Alleyway Wandering & the Walk to the Windmill
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    Arriving on Fourni: First Impressions of Kampos Village, Mulberry Streets, Alleyway Wandering & the Walk to the Windmill

    ByStephanie Banks 16 July 20192 December 2025

    It’s funny how circumstances can affect your frame of mind.  My arrival on Fourni didn’t start the best way after a chaotic journey from Agios Kyrikos on the Nissos Chios amidst a dust storm at the port.  I must admit I was shocked at the amount of cars and people that disembarked at Fourni that…

    Read More Arriving on Fourni: First Impressions of Kampos Village, Mulberry Streets, Alleyway Wandering & the Walk to the WindmillContinue

  • Saying Goodbye to Ikaria: Six Days in Therma, Coast Walks, Hot Springs, Local Life & the Ferry to Fourni
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    Saying Goodbye to Ikaria: Six Days in Therma, Coast Walks, Hot Springs, Local Life & the Ferry to Fourni

    ByStephanie Banks 12 July 20192 December 2025

    It is with great sadness that I leave Ikaria today after 6 wonderful days.  I can’t understate the part that the Oinoi Hotel, in Therma has played in making my stay here so special.  When you stay at this hotel you become part of a family – the guests will chat to each other at…

    Read More Saying Goodbye to Ikaria: Six Days in Therma, Coast Walks, Hot Springs, Local Life & the Ferry to FourniContinue

  • Exploring Ikaria in a Day: Evdilos, Theoktistis, Christos Raches and Armenistis on a Guided Island Tour
    Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos

    Exploring Ikaria in a Day: Evdilos, Theoktistis, Christos Raches and Armenistis on a Guided Island Tour

    ByStephanie Banks 9 July 20192 December 2025

    I set off for the curvaceous lady statue by the beach with large wedges of freshly baked apple caked in hand from Filipos and Mariana.  There are several of us from the Oinoi hotel going  on the island excursion.  Dolihi Tours alternate their tours for those staying in the Agios Kyrikos/Therma locations OR those staying…

    Read More Exploring Ikaria in a Day: Evdilos, Theoktistis, Christos Raches and Armenistis on a Guided Island TourContinue

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    • Thessaloniki-Sochos Panigiri-Ourounopolis-Amouliani
    • Echoes of Greece Across the Aegean: Istanbul-Marmara Adasi-Canakkale and Troy-Bozcaada-Gokceada-Lesvos-Spetses
    • Kefalonia-Ithaca-Meganisi-Lefkada-Preveza
    • Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens
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    • Crete – Kasos – Karpathos – Rhodes – Nisyros – Tilos – Symi – Chalki
    • Kastellorizo via Turkey 2016
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