Cyclades Island Hopping: 2 Weeks on Antiparos, Paros, Folegandros, Milos & Athens
This 2-week Cyclades island hopping itinerary covers Antiparos, Paros, Folegandros, Milos and Athens by ferry from Piraeus. Best time: May-June or September-October. Highlights: the ancient Cave of Antiparos, Folegandros’s dramatic cliff-edge Chora, the lunar landscape of Sarakiniko on Milos, and the treasures of the Acropolis. No cars were hired during the making of this trip!
Note: This trip took place in June 2013. While the islands themselves remain timeless, specific prices, accommodation availability, and ferry schedules may have changed. Always verify current information before booking. This is definitely an ‘on the beaten track’ destination and all islands are well connected.
The Cyclades have a way of getting under your skin. The light, the whitewashed villages, the rhythm of ferry departures and taverna dinners—once experienced, never forgotten. This route deliberately avoids the headline islands in favour of their quieter neighbours: Antiparos instead of overcrowded Paros, Folegandros instead of Santorini, Milos before it became an Instagram sensation (I think it already is!)
What emerged was two weeks of discovery—ancient caves where holy communion services still take place, hilltop churches reached at dawn, beaches accessible only by boat, and landscapes that look like the surface of the moon. Plus a day or two in Athens to bookend the adventure with ancient history and rooftop cocktails overlooking the Acropolis.
What Makes This Itinerary Special
The Quieter Cyclades
While Santorini and Mykonos battle overtourism, islands like Antiparos and Folegandros retain the authentic character that made the Cyclades famous. These are places where locals still outnumber visitors, where taverna owners remember your name, and where the pace of life hasn’t been sacrificed to tourism.
Folegandros: The Undiscovered Star
If this itinerary has a heart, it’s Folegandros. The Chora perches on a cliff edge with views that rival anywhere in Greece. The walk to Panagia Church at dawn rewards early risers with something close to perfection. The beaches require effort to reach—and repay it tenfold.
Milos Before It Was Famous
In 2013, Milos was still a secret. The lunar landscape of Sarakiniko, the ancient catacombs, the fishing village of Pollonia—all could be enjoyed without crowds. The island has since been discovered, but the magic remains for those who explore beyond the obvious.
Ancient Wonders Underground
The Cave of Antiparos has been drawing visitors for centuries—graffiti from Lord Byron’s era proves it. Descending 360 steps into a cavern where 45-million-year-old stalagmites tower overhead, you understand why. We stumbled upon a holy communion service in progress—proof that these caves remain sacred spaces.
Athens as a Proper Destination
Too many travellers treat Athens as a transit hub. This itinerary ends with three days to explore properly—the Acropolis at 8am before the crowds, Plaka’s winding streets, rooftop cocktails with that view. Athens deserves time, and this trip gives it.
Designed for Public Transport
Ferries connect every island on this route. Local buses reach the villages and beaches. Taxis and boat trips fill the gaps. No car rental required—just a flexible attitude and a willingness to wait for the next departure.
The Route at a Glance
Route: Manchester → Athens → Piraeus → Paros → Antiparos → Folegandros → Milos → Athens → Manchester
Duration: 2 weeks (June-July 2013)
Transport: Ferries from Piraeus (Blue Star, SeaJet), inter-island ferries, local buses, boats
Best Time: May-June or September-October for warm weather, swimmable seas, and manageable crowds. July-August is peak season with higher prices and busier ferries.
Who It’s For: Island hoppers seeking authentic Cyclades, those who prefer character over convenience, hikers and beach lovers, anyone wanting to experience Greece beyond the postcards
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Island-by-Island Itinerary
Day 1: Manchester to Athens to Antiparos
The journey began with a lesson in Greek travel: always be prepared for the unexpected. We arrived in Piraeus to discover the ferry we’d planned on was fully booked—Athenians were escaping to the islands for the long weekend and a festival on Antiparos. After frantic rebooking, we caught the 21:00 Blue Star Paros, arriving at 1:00am. Giorgios, our accommodation host, had texted that an extra car ferry from Pounda to Antiparos was running at 1:30am. A special bus, an 8-minute crossing, and a 3am arrival later, we finally reached Villa Harmonia—nearly 24 hours after leaving Manchester.
Getting There: Fly to Athens. Bus from airport to Piraeus port (hourly service, approximately 60-90 minutes). Ferry from Piraeus to Paros (4-5 hours). car ferry from Pounda to Antiparos (8 minutes plus bus from Parikia to Pounda). If you arrive late afternoon you may be able to catch the tour boat from Paroikia (only during summer season).
Travel Tip: The Pounda car ferry runs until late at night—essential for late arrivals. Check current schedules before travelling.
Boat Schedule for Antiparos to and from both Pounda and Paroikia
→ Manchester to Athens and on to Antiparos via Paros (We Hope!)
Days 1-4: Antiparos
This was my third visit to Antiparos, an island that consistently ranked in my top five. It has everything: a pretty village with a Venetian kastro at its heart, beaches within walking distance, that particular Cycladic light, and—crucially—a fraction of the crowds that overwhelm neighbouring Paros (as of 2013).
The highlight was the Cave of Antiparos, reached by bus to the southern tip of the island. Descending 360 steps into a cavern of 45-million-year-old stalagmites is extraordinary enough. But we arrived to find a holy communion service in progress—candles flickering, voices echoing off ancient rock. It was one of those unexpected moments that transforms travel from tourism into something sacred.
We also took a day trip to Paros—the pretty fishing village of Naoussa lived up to memories from 20 years earlier, and the Byzantine Museum in its monastery complex proved unexpectedly fascinating. But Antiparos remained our base, and rightly so.
Getting Around: Walking in the village. Bus to the caves and beaches. Day trips to Paros via the regular ferry.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Villa Harmonia – Basic, clean, quiet, close to the kastro. €35/night in 2013. Run by Giorgios, who went above and beyond to help with our late-night arrival.
Don’t Miss: The Cave of Antiparos (allow 1 hour minimum; 360 steps down), a day trip to Naoussa on Paros, the Byzantine Museum, walking the village streets at dusk, Sunset Beach.
The Reality Check: Greek national holidays can book out ferries completely—check dates before travelling. A cockroach appeared on our last morning (it is Greece, after all).
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry from Antiparos via Ios and Sikinos to Folegandros.
→ The Caves of Antiparos Have a Surprise for Us!
→ A Day Trip to Paros
→ Farewell Antiparos – Hello Folegandros!
Days 5-8: Folegandros
If one island defined this trip, it was Folegandros. The Chora is simply one of the most beautiful villages in Greece—whitewashed houses perched on a cliff edge, the main square alive with tavernas, and the Panagia Church illuminated on its hilltop ridge each night like a beacon.
We arrived by ferry to find a hillside covered with purple thyme and splintered slate—a landscape quite unlike the softer Cyclades. Our room at Evgenia’s looked toward the ridge where Panagia sits, and watching it glow at night became a ritual.
The dawn walk to Panagia Church remains one of my favourite Greek experiences. Built on the ruins of an ancient temple (you can still see marble columns), the church commands views in every direction. We arrived before the heat, before the crowds, before anything except the light.
Katergo Beach required a boat trip—isolated, crystal-clear emerald waters, no facilities whatsoever. We brought our own supplies and spent hours swimming in water so clear it felt like flying.
Getting There: Ferry from Antiparos. Port is Karavostasis; local bus or accommodation pickup to the Chora.
Getting Around: Walking in the Chora. Bus to Ano Meria and Agali beach. Boat trips to Katergo Beach (check schedule—limited departures).
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Evgenia Rooms, Chora – Simple, well-located, with views toward the Panagia ridge. Approximately €30/night in 2013. I also recommend the Meltemi Hotel and for a bit of luxury – the Anemomilos Boutique Hotel
Where to Eat:
• Tavernas in the main square – Goat in lemon sauce, lamb with almonds
• Molidiri Café, Galifos Beach – Run by Eleftheria, previously of Oia. Exceptional fresh-baked pies and real-milk ice cream
Don’t Miss: The dawn walk to Panagia Church (1km uphill—go early), Katergo Beach by boat, the main square at night, Ano Meria village, Galifos Beach and Molidiri café.
The Reality Check: Folegandros is rocky—don’t expect white sand beaches. The boat to Katergo only runs certain days (Mon/Wed/Sat in 2013). The Chora can be windy. None of this matters—Folegandros is exceptional.
Onward Travel Connection: Evening SeaJet to Milos (19:10 departure in 2013).
→ Folegandros – Galifos Beach
→ Up to Panagia Church and Down to Katergo Beach
→ Ano Meria Folegandros then on to Milos
Days 9-12: Milos
Milos in 2013 was still a secret—before the Instagram hordes discovered Sarakiniko, before every travel blog featured that lunar landscape. We arrived not knowing quite what to expect and left wondering why we hadn’t visited sooner.
We started in Adamas, the port town, which serves as a practical base for bus connections but lacks charm. The catacombs near Tripiti—early Christian burial chambers carved into the hillside—proved unexpectedly moving. The spot where the Venus de Milo was discovered is marked by a simple plaque in a farmer’s field.
But then we discovered Pollonia—a fishing village on the north coast with a beach, a handful of tavernas, and a pace of life that made Adamas feel rushed. We moved our bags and never looked back. The ferry to tiny Kimolos departs from Pollonia, and a day trip to that even quieter island became a highlight.
And then there’s Sarakiniko. The lunar landscape of white volcanic rock, sculpted by wind and sea into something otherworldly. In 2013, we had it almost to ourselves. Time it for morning or late afternoon, bring a towel, and prepare to be astonished.
Getting There: Ferry from Folegandros (SeaJet or traditional ferry). Port is Adamas.
Getting Around: Bus from Adamas to Sarakiniko (limited schedule—11:00 and 13:00 only in 2013), Pollonia, and the catacombs. Ferry from Pollonia to Kimolos.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation:
• Giannis Apartments, Adamas – Spacious, clean, with kitchen. €35/night in 2013. Good for bus connections but limited charm.
• Pergola Rooms, Pollonia – Much more character. Beachside location, peaceful atmosphere. Highly recommended.
Where to Eat:
• Taverna Arodo, Adamas – Greek salad, horta, overlooking the harbour
• Rifaki Café Bar, Pollonia – Perfect for afternoon ice cream
• Pollonia waterfront tavernas – Fresh fish, simple cooking
Don’t Miss: The lunar landscape of Sarakiniko, the catacombs at Tripiti, the Venus de Milo discovery site, Pollonia village and beach, a day trip to Kimolos, sunset from Plaka.
The Reality Check: Adamas is functional rather than charming—move to Pollonia if possible. The bus to Sarakiniko ran only twice daily in 2013; check current schedules. Milos has since been “discovered”—expect more visitors than we experienced.
Onward Travel Connection: SpeedRunner 3 catamaran from Adamas to Piraeus.
→ Arrival on Milos – Catacombs, Venus de Milo and Pollonia
→ The Stunning Lunar Landscape of Sarakiniko, Milos
→ Arrival at Pollonia and We Find a Little Bit of Egypt
→ A Day Trip to the Little Island of Kimolos
→ Leaving the Islands for Athens
Days 13-14: Athens
Twenty years had passed since my last visit to Athens, and I’d forgotten how a city can be both exhausting and exhilarating. We arrived by catamaran from Milos, checked into Hotel Attalos in Monastiraki, and headed straight to the rooftop bar. The Acropolis floated above the city, lit against the darkening sky. Cocktails were ordered. Plans were made.
The Acropolis opens at 8:00am, and we were determined to beat the crowds. What I remembered from previous visits were queues and difficulties getting photographs without tourists in every shot. This time, arriving early, we had the Parthenon almost to ourselves—the morning light catching the marble, the city spread below, history made tangible.
We walked the shaded streets of Plaka afterward—a traditional village somehow surviving in the middle of a modern capital. Mars Hill (the Areopagus) offered free sunset views over the city, popular with locals and visitors alike.
Getting There: Catamaran from Milos to Piraeus (approximately 4 hours). Metro from Piraeus to Monastiraki.
Getting Around: Walking. The metro if needed. Athens rewards those who explore on foot.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Hotel Attalos, Monastiraki – Budget-friendly, rooftop bar with spectacular Acropolis views, 5 minutes from Plaka, 15 minutes from the Acropolis. Books up quickly—reserve ahead.
Don’t Miss: The Acropolis at 8:00am (beat the crowds!), walking through Plaka’s shaded streets, sunset from Mars Hill (Areopagus), the Attalos rooftop at night, the Acropolis Museum.
The Reality Check: Athens in July is hot. Very hot. Go early, rest during midday, emerge again for evening explorations. The Acropolis ticket price has increased significantly since 2013—check current rates.
→ Arrival in Athens – and What a View!
→ Athens in a Day!
Is This Trip Right for You?
This itinerary is perfect if you:
• Want the authentic Cyclades experience beyond Santorini and Mykonos
• Enjoy island hopping by ferry
• Appreciate dramatic landscapes—cliffs, caves, lunar rock formations
• Love discovering beaches that require effort to reach
• Want to combine island life with Athens exploration
• Prefer family-run pensions over resort hotels
Think twice if you:
• Want organised beaches with facilities
• Need predictable ferry schedules without flexibility
• Prefer one-base holidays over moving between islands
• Expect sandy beaches on every island (Folegandros is rocky)
• Want guaranteed nightlife
A Note on Travelling in 2013
This trip took place over a decade ago, and some things will have changed. Milos in particular has been “discovered”—expect more visitors and higher prices than we experienced. Ferry schedules evolve, accommodation owners retire, and the €35/night rooms of 2013 are likely memories.
But the essentials remain. The Cave of Antiparos has been there for 45 million years; it isn’t going anywhere. Panagia Church still glows above Folegandros each night. Sarakiniko’s lunar landscape continues to astonish. And the Acropolis at 8:00am still rewards early risers.
Use this itinerary as inspiration rather than instruction. The islands are the same; only the details have shifted.
Final Thoughts
Two weeks. Four islands. One capital. This was a whistle stop tour and I much prefer to linger longer in each destination nowadays.
This trip taught me that the best Cycladic experiences aren’t found on the famous islands. Antiparos delivered community and caves. Folegandros delivered drama and dawn. Milos delivered landscapes from another planet. And Athens reminded me that cities can enchant as powerfully as islands.
Folegandros, in particular, earned a permanent place in my heart. Standing at Panagia Church as the sun rose over the Aegean, I understood why people return to certain places year after year. Some islands just fit. Some views just stay with you. Some mornings redefine what travel can be.
The ferry from Piraeus still serves these islands. The cave still descends 360 steps. The lunar rock of Sarakiniko still glows white against the blue. Go—before another decade passes. Go while the memories are still being made.
