In Search of Dovecotes and Chimney Pots

One thing that you can’t help but notice when on Tinos is the fantastic collection of ornate dovecotes that are scattered across the landscape.  So far I had only caught fleeting glances of them from the bus, but I wanted the chance to see them up close. I had asked Valentina, my guide from the island trip, where was the best place to see them – bearing in mind that I would be using public transport to get there. She suggested the village of Tarampados which is on the main Tinos Town to Panormos bus route. She told me that from there I could also walk to Kampos the next village. Funnily enough, when I was returning from Pyrgos a few days ago, I’d caught Tarampados out of the corner of my eye and ‘starred’ it on Google maps. Not that you can gauge a place very well as you whizz past it on the bus, but there were certainly lots of Dovecotes on the hillside. This is the plan of action for today.

During my stay on Tinos so far, I’d say that the bus service is very good but careful planning is still required. The main bus route from Tinos Bus station over to Panormos runs several times throughout the day. If you don’t plan it correctly though, you could get stranded or have to wait for some considerable time to return back. The lady at the bus station has been very helpful so far so I call upon her advice again.

I want to catch the 11.00am bus to Tarampados but the bus timetable is quite sparse on detail. I ask her what time the bus will leave Tarampados back to Tinos town. After conferring with one of her colleagues she told me it would be approximately (with a hand tilting side to side motion) 12.25. Perfect – now I can time it accordingly.  This won’t give me very long at Tarampados but at least I will get chance to see the dovecotes up close.

Whilst waiting for the bus to arrive I noticed another one of those football-related peculiarities that crop up in Greece every now and again. A bus is adorned with Chelsea Football Club memorabilia – a large Chelsea FC decal down the side and all sorts of merchandise adorning the front. The driver’s seat is covered in a large Chelsea flag and scarf and every seat on the bus has a Chelsea FC headrest cover. Now I don’t know much (or anything) about football but I’m pretty sure there is an interesting story behind this. A bit like the George Best material I saw on a bus at Sparta Bus Station once. 

I board the Chelsea FC bus.  The driver and conductor do the same and we head up and out of Tinos Town.  I have Tarampados starred on Google maps.  It gives me some kind of control to know exactly where I am.  I had from previous experience relied on conductors and drivers to tell me when to disembark – and that didn’t always end well.  It takes around 15 minutes to reach Tarampados which gives me just over an hour to walk around the village and then on to Kampos village.

The entrance to the village looks like a modern resort – maybe part of the re-invention of Tinos for tourism.  Although the stone entrance looks modern it is done in the traditional geometric style that you see everywhere in the island’s architecture complete with decorative Cycladic style chimney pots.   I say chimney pots but the structures on top of the dovecotes may also be functional by providing the pigeons a place to rest and survey their territory.  This is a question I must try and ask whilst here on Tinos.

The buildingsto the left showcase the architectural elements the island is famous for.  You can see examples of elaborate fanlights and geometric designs crafted from the local slate.

 

Walking further into the village I notice how deserted it appears. The only sound is the voice of a woman singing from one of the houses. Vaulted alleyways lead you further into the interior but these labyrinthine streets can send  you off in any direction.  As I get my bearings I find myself at the entrance to a small church and from here I follow the path down stone steps.  I get the sense that I am heading in the general direction of Dovecote Valley as I can see the surrounding hillside peaking through the gaps.

 

The dovecotes were brought to the island by the Venetians in the 15th century and have several purposes.  The bottom of the dovecote was used for storing tools and agricultural machinery whiles the top and the more ornate part of the tower is the place where the pigeons nested and bred.  Dovecotes are located mainly on a hillside at an angle to the wind that makes it easier for the pigeons to take off and land.  Pigeon poop is full of nutrients and an excellent fertiliser for the surrounding agricultural land.  Each dovecote hs its own unique design which the pigeons are able recognise as their own.

The travel guides that I’d read said there were about 600 dovecotes on Tinos.  My guide from the island tells me that there are more than 1000.  Here on the hillside at Tarampados there is a handful but all beautiful examples and this alone has satisfied my thirst to see them.

Conscious of time I head back onto the main road to walk to the village of Kampos.  One village almost spills into another.

Again there is very little sign of life in Kampos.  After passing a house with a beautiful flower-filled garden on the right I arrive at the Tsoclis Museum which I had hoped would be open.  Unfortunately, it isn’t.  Here is an article that may whet your appetite as it whetted mine.

The Captivating Museum of Costas Tsoclis

Before I know it my time is up.  I just have enough time to take a couple of photographs of the Cycladic style chimney pots I can see.  I’m a collector of things.  I collect photographs of door knockers, doors, windows, electricity meters, outdoor sinks and chimney pots.  (only in Greece).  I first fell in love with the Cycladic style chimney pots on Sifnos which of course is famous for its pottery.  On Sifnos you can see some of the most beautiful examples of chimney pots but the ones on Tinos have their own unique style.

 

Now it’s time to put the bus service to the test. There is always that moment when you wonder whether you have been given the correct information.  The bus schedule at the bus stop is decidedly short on detail, however, I have faith in the information that I was given at the bus station.  Ten minutes later than the time I was given the bus like a glistening beacon of hope swings around the corner. This by any standards is very good indeed.

 Now feeling a little bit rock and roll, I ask the bus driver to drop me by the windmills on the approach to Tinos Town.  I had seen another Dovecote on the way up that looked quite unique.  Before I disembark, I let the driver and conductor know how great the bus service is. They looked chuffed to receive the compliment.  Seriously though – as someone who tends to rely on public transport in Greece, I appreciate a great bus service when I see it!

I hop off at the windmills and once across the busy junction, I follow the road in the direction of the town. There are great views of the mount of Exembourgo above me and the port below where a cluster of ferries are coming and going.   Over to the right I can see Panagia Evangelistria positioned on the hill in all her majesty.

The windmills aren’t anything to write home about but it’s worth taking this walk down to get another perspective.

The dovecote that I wanted to see is quite unusual in style.  It sits on what looks like a bit of wasteland just off the main road.  It had a fat round body (Maybe why I felt a connection with it!).  Across the road there is a bonus dovecote to add to the collection.

 

Once back – at the apartment I hear a cacophony of car horns beeping which can only mean one thing – a wedding!  I watch the cavalcade from the balcony  before getting ready for tonight’s evening meal.

Now ready to eat, I Google “best restaurants in Tinos Town” and choose Taverna Malamatenia which is short walk away.  The restaurant is nestled between two churches in a pretty square.  I order horta and chickpea balls to start and Kleftiko for the main meal which is all washed down with Retsina!

 

An end to another interesting day on Tinos.  Tomorrow is Sunday and I’m pretty sure if I’m going to see the pilgrims climbing the mount it will be then.  Let’s see.