Wandering Ioannina’s Alleyways

This morning I awoke feeling exhilarated realising that I was finally in the place that had been on my bucket list for 10 years. I’d always thought that places like Ioannina were inaccessible without a car. I’d never been a fan of driving in Greece – my unfortunate driving escapades are well-documented. However, getting here (although a little convoluted from the Diapontia Islands) was easy. With regular ferry connections between Corfu and Igoumenitsa and a direct bus service to Ioannina, the transit was relatively stress-free. I’ve booked 6 nights at Irida by the Lake and being in a destination so rich in history and incredible landscapes, I needed to prioritise what I’d like to see and do.

Right at the top of my list was the Zagori National Park but I didn’t even know if this was possible without a car. For years I’d been intrigued by photographs of the ancient stone bridges that the area is known for. They seemed mysterious and unreachable. Although the lake is calling me, my first mission this morning is to try and find a tour operator that would offer something even remotely close to what I was looking for.

I thumbed the location of the Tourist Information Office into Google Maps as a starting point. It directed me along the main road between the castle walls and a string of tourist shops selling silver, ceramics, and Karagiosis shadow puppet theatre characters – an eclectic mix to tempt the tourists.

It’s a fifteen-minute walk but I took longer, allowing myself to get distracted by the wide array of shops, especially the delicatessens selling local produce. Had I not been on the upper limits of my luggage allowance I would have a field day here! I’ll find space for a jar of local honey or two!

I found the Tourist Information Office just off the main road. The lady at the desk was very helpful and armed me with a bundle of leaflets and brochures. I asked her if she could direct me to any tour operators that offered trips to the Zagori National Park. She told me that they weren’t able to recommend any as they had to remain impartial. However, she did say that there were a couple in the town and the same in the old town. Hmmm, how to find them? I’ll figure that out later.

Whilst in the town, I decided to cross the road to see the town’s famous landmark, the Clock Tower. It’s a relatively modern monument built in 1905 under the direction of Osman Pasha the Kurd. It was built to commemorate the silver jubilee of the reign of Sultan Abdul Hamid II. Architect Pericles Meliryttous was commissioned to oversee the construction and employed marble carvers and stone masons from Konitsa, Kastaniani and Vourbiani for the work.

It is neoclassical in style with oriental features including fountains on all four sides of the tower. A spiral metal staircase leads up to a bell tower. It was originally located in the lower part of the town. In 1918 during a parade to celebrate the Ally’s WW1 victory, a horse-drawn cannon veered off course and damaged the monument. The general commander of Epirus, Aristides Stergiadis ordered it to be rebuilt in its original form in a new location where it remains today since 1925. The bell in the clock tower was from the clock tower located above the castle’s main gate.

Also in the memorial park alongside the Clock Tower is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Sitting alongside are statues of historical notables such as Georgios Karaiskakis military commander and leader of the Greek War of Independence. At an early age, he became a Klepht (an anti-Ottoman brigand or highwayman) under the command of Antonis Katsantonis where he quickly rose through the ranks. At the age of 15, he was captured by Ali Pasha, the Albanian ruler of Ioannina. Karaiskakis soon learned Albanian and impressed Ali Pasha with his bravery and intelligence. He later went on to serve as his personal bodyguard.

Antonis Katsantonis also cuts a fine figure in the memorial park. Leader of the Klephts operating in and around Agrafa, he played an important role in the lead-up to the War of Independence. Operating from the mountains, he showed heroic resistance to the Ottomans. In 1807 he was arrested by Ali Pasha’s soldiers and taken to Ioannina. He didn’t receive the same admiration that Karaiskakis had received. After extensive bouts of torture, he was executed in 1808. The detailing on the bronze statues of Karaiskakis and Katsantonis is exquisite.

Crossing back over the main road I take a parallel route back towards the old town. Now this is what I’m talking about! There are so many interesting little alleyways to get lost in. Around every corner, there is an abundance of buildings dripping in just the right amount of decay and patina. The street art, the doors and door knockers, the sachnisi – all the things I love to photograph have sent me into a frenzy! My posts will be in danger of just becoming one long photo gallery. What really takes my interest are traditional businesses like that of the hagiographer and the bootmaker who operates out of an open-fronted workshop. There are also several tailors and dressmaking shops located close to a sewing machine shop, a legacy I daresay left by Jewish artisans and merchants. These types of businesses are hardly ever seen in the UK nowadays. Along with fabric and haberdashery shops, these are things that were very much part of my youth but something my grandchildren will never know about.

Many of the historic buildings now operate as trendy cafe bars and restaurants. The style could be taken straight out of the handbook of how to appeal to the mocha frappuccino-drinking hipster crowd but far less pretentious than Psyri. At the end of every vista, I catch a fleeting glance of the surrounding mountains reminding me of exactly where I am. I can hardly contain myself!

On Anexartisias Street there are several 19th-century Stoas. These galleries used to house all manner of merchants usually themed by trade. It had originally been the site of the old market of Ioannina but in 1869, the town’s governor Rasim Pasha, ordered that it be burnt down to make way for development. Stoa Louli was built in 1875 as an inn for people from the local villages while doing business in the city. Eventually, it was a place to stay for international travellers making their way along the trading route or heading to Athens for business. Later Jewish merchants established it as retail businesses selling fabric and leather. It later served as an iron forge amongst other things and in more recent years it has been home to a cluster of restaurants and shops. Stoa Liabei is one of the more well-preserved galleries and the only one not built in a straight line. This is also now home to shops and restaurants.

I have a feeling I will keep coming back to this place. You know when you arrive somewhere for the first time and it just ‘fits’? Ioannina was already beginning to feel like a comfy pair of well-worn stretch leggings. Anyway, the Lake and in particular the island, had been calling me ever since I’d arrived, so this is where I go next.