Ithaca – a Whistle Stop Tour of the North
Today we have arranged a tour of the north of the island booked with Ithaca Travel. After grabbing a bougatsa from the bakery, we made our way to the office to wait for our guide. Stefania looked a little flustered that morning. It was almost like she’d forgotten we’d booked a tour, even though it was only yesterday. She mentioned something about the driver being delayed and the rest was lost on me. We habitually arrive early for everything, so we had plenty of time for her to sort it out. We waited outside in the warm morning sun. Today the sky is bright but littered with patchy clouds. We’re not sun worshippers, so today’s weather was ideal for getting out and about.
Stefania seemed to spend some time making frantic phone calls whilst I tried to think of Plan B’s if today’s trip had to be cancelled. Actually, there were no Plan B’s as this was our last day on the island. All we could do was wait and hope. 10.30 came and went, and twenty minutes later Stefania came out of the shop, locking the door behind her. She said something about going to get the car. We didn’t understand what that meant, but just went with the flow. Whilst we waited for Stefania to return, a Sunvil rep with another lady arrived and looked concerned when they found the office locked. I told her that Stefania had gone to get the car, though I had no idea whether this was for us or for them. Just before 1100, Stefania returned in said car and just behind her was the Ithaca Travel vehicle and our guide, Vassilis. He apologised for being late, and after introductions, we were soon underway.
We followed the road back to the junction that turns left to the port of Piso Aetos, but we continued straight ahead. We passed along the isthmus of the island, the narrowest strip of land that connects the north and the south. Imagine if you will, the shape of Ithaca as a head-heavy rabbit sitting on its hind legs. We’d just driven along its gullet. The higher we climbed, the more steep and dramatic the views became. Yes, there were a few ‘twitchy bum’ moments that triggered my vertigo, but the scene below of Molos Bay feeding into Vathy harbour was incredible.
Our first stop is at the Holy Monastery of Panagia Kathariotissa also known as the Holy Monastery of Kathara. Before entering the monastery, Vassilis walked us over to the panoramic view and offered to take our photo. I prefer my photographs without people litter, but it would be rude not to!
This location commands one of the finest views over the island and out to the shimmering Ionian Sea beyond. The land curving its way around in front of us gave the impression of being a nearby island, but the view is deceiving. It’s the northern part of the southern half of the island with Vathy to the right. The unusual shape of the island can easily make you disoriented, especially for someone like me who lacks a sense of direction.
The monastery is one of the island’s most spiritually significant and scenically placed landmarks. It sits at an elevation of 556 metres on the southeastern side of Mount Niritos and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is said to have been founded in the 17th century, though over the centuries had been subject to two earthquakes, resulting in several episodes of reconstruction.
It has long been a place of pilgrimage for Ithacans, especially during its feast day on September 8th. The name Kathariotissa was so named because, according to local tradition, the Icon was discovered in the ashes of the burning “kathara”, a word which translates to the dry twigs and brush that are cut and burnt to clear an area.
Once through the entrance, we were greeted by the guardian who was sharing coffee with some guests. I suddenly became conscious of my bare arms, but Vassilis reassured me that it wasn’t a problem, as the monastery is no longer inhabited by monks. However, I felt it still required a certain amount of reverence.
The interior of the chapel was modest but beautiful, with ornate icons including the striking icon of the Panagia Kathariotissa, the island’s patron saint. We were given some time to wander around the monastery grounds alone, enabling us to absorb the silence and tranquillity whilst the scent of the pine and wild herbs from the surrounding hillside wafted in. This place certainly has a sense of spirituality about it – even for an atheist like me.
Back in the van, we were soon on our way to the village of Stavros. Along the way, we passed through the village of Anogi which sits on a plateau at an altitude of 500 metres above sea level. The word Anogi means ‘on top of’ or ‘above’. Vassilis slowed the vehicle down next to a carved wooden sign with the words ‘Ta Alonia The Anoges’, meaning the threshing circle of Anogi. Just beyond the sign, we could see a circular threshing floor (Alonia means threshing). Typically, these are circular with a hard, paved floor used to separate the grain from the stalks after harvesting by – well, bashing the hell out of it on the ground.
Adjacent to the sign was a perpendicular stone, which gave us an indication of the Geopark close by. The inscription translates very roughly as ‘a prayer for the house of children.’ Just below the plateau of the village of Anogi are several stone monoliths called menhirs, but these are not man-carved stones – they are all naturally formed of limestone. Unfortunately, we didn’t get a chance to visit the geopark. Vassilis gave us the option of visiting the geopark or the village of Exogi. We chose the latter. It was a shame that we couldn’t do both, as I’d read that the monoliths were impressive. The locals had named each monolith based on its shape and character with the largest and most impressive being named Araklis (Hercules).
In Stavros we arrived at a small village square surrounded by traditional tavernas and dominated by the church of the Holy Temple of the Transfiguration of the Saviour. Just off the square is a bust of Odysseus marking the village’s proud connection to the legend. Local tradition says that Stavros was the heart of Odysseus’s kingdom.
Vassilis told us that just outside the village, on the hill of Pelikata, lie the ruins of an ancient Mycenaean settlement. Some archaeologists believe this could be the site of Odysseus’s long-lost palace, though there is much debate as to whether this is true history or just a story. In the famous Loizos cave, three-legged metallic tripods were found. These tripods are mentioned in the Odyssey, as a gift from King Alkinoos. A short distance away is the site known as the School of Homer, adding another layer to the mystery as there is much debate about Homer’s existence too.
Tradition tells us that Homer was a blind poet from ancient Ionia who composed The Iliad and The Odyssey around the 8th century BCE. But many scholars believe these epics were shaped over generations of oral storytelling, possibly by many different voices. Whether Homer was a real person, a symbolic name, or a bit of both, his legacy lives on — especially here on Ithaca, where myth and memory are deeply entwined.
Walking through the village, Vasillis guided us to two small buildings set up as museum/exhibition spaces entitled Throwing Light on Homeric Ithaca and Museum of the Sea. This was a fleeting visit and we didn’t have enough time to explore and absorb all the information on offer. I’d hoped to read more about the archaeological finds on the island and whether there was plausible evidence for the connection between Ithaca and Homer, and indeed Odysseus. But this will have to wait for another time.
The next call on our whistle-stop tour is the village of Exogi, which sits 340 metres above sea level. We parked on the edge of the village next to the Church of Agia Marina with its unusual bell tower. We are now high above the coastal village of Afales in the northwest of the island, and the views from here are spectacular. Vassilis led us past a row of stone buildings, several of which operated as tavernas or cafes. The aptly named Extra Terrestrial paid reference to the name of the village Exogi, meaning ‘out of the world’.
Only 45 permanent residents live here all year round, a sharp decline in the population over many decades. As we took the gentle stroll through the village past stone houses sprouting wildflowers from every orifice, I asked Vassilis if there were many snakes up in the hills. And just as if I’d summoned one up, slap bang in the middle of the path was a bundle of reptile lying prostrate on the ground waiting for us. Judging by the expression on its face, its final moments had been spent being tortured by the local feline residents. On that basis, I centred myself in the middle of the walkway and away from any nooks and crannies that may have been harbouring any secretive serpents basking in the sun.
After a walk through the village and back, we were now back in the van and heading for Kioni. The road took us through the seaside village of Frikes, though we didn’t stop to take a look. I managed to grab a few photos through the window of the vehicle.
At Kioni, we parked in a small carpark on the edge of the village. We passed the church of Agios Ioannis who’s entrance was flanked by two praying angels. This church also has an unusual bell tower.
The road led us down to a small harbour with a bustling array of tavernas and bars. The beach was not much more than a thin sliver of pebbles. Around the other side of the bay, neoclassical-style houses created an air of grandeur about the place. It’s an attractive little village for sure.
Here we stopped for a light lunch at one of the waterside tavernas. Vassilis was an interesting young man, and he talked about growing up on Ithaca and leaving to study in Athens, as so many young people do. He enjoyed his time in Athens, but if anything, it gave him an appreciation for the better quality of life on the island. As well as guiding, he looks after his olive grove almost single-handedly – and that is no mean feat.
This brought the end of our tour and it was now time to head back to Vathy. We took a slightly different route back, passing through pretty villages and stunning verdant landscapes. Vassilis pointed out his olive groves and his favourite beach. He also pointed out the Pyramids of Exogi, two funerary monuments up in the hills. We hadn’t been able to see them from Exogi itself, though to be fair, we couldn’t really see them from here either but the story is an interesting one.
The pyramids of Exogi, were built in the 1930s by Ioannis Papadopoulos, an eccentric millionaire with a love for Ithaca. He died without any heirs and donated his wealth to the Red Cross. One of the monuments was built in memory of his parents whilst the other is a masonic symbol. One pyramid is the grave of his parents while the other is a masonic symbol. Close by lies his own grave, which is covered with unusual symbols – all very curious.
Back at Vathy we went into the office to pay for the trip and thank Vassilis and Stefania for their help. We were both grateful that we’d been able to see a bit more of the island. Did we think the trip was good value for money at 250€? Not particularly. I’ve been spoiled with some very excellent private guided tours in the past, where I’d gained a sense of knowledge and understanding about the places that I’d visited. This trip was as I’d described it – a whistle-stop tour, but it lacked detail. In hindsight, we would have got better value for money with a group trip from Kefalonia or Lefkada. But hey ho! If I come back to Ithaca again, I’ll just have to put on my big girl pants and hire a car so we can delve a little deeper into the places and their history at our own pace.
Later that evening, we headed back into the centre of Vathy for our last evening meal on the island. We chose La Familia, another popular taverna located along the waters edge. And very nice it was too!
Tomorrow we head for Meganisi.
