Leaving Ithaca and a Taste of Meganisi
Before returning to the apartment to pack, we collared a taxi driver in Vathy’s main square and arranged for him to take us to the port the following morning. After completing the tedious deed of re-packing, we sat on the balcony soaking up the view over Vathy for one last time. Tonight, the town was illuminated by the light of a full moon, which made me feel a little melancholic at having to leave. I just knew that I was leaving Ithaca without getting a real sense of the place – and that bothered me. I hadn’t had the chance to delve into the Homeric stories that the island had claimed as their own. I’d merely peeled back a layer or two of what the island had to offer.
After running a couple of ‘could of’s’ and ‘would of’s’ through my mind and then verbalising them to Peter, he reminded me that our five nights on Vathy were supposed to have been all about rest and relaxation. So on that basis – I guess it was mission accomplished!
The following morning, we made our way down the narrow alleyway to the harbour front with our luggage. We’d decided to save the taxi driver the trouble of having to squeeze down the street to our accommodation.
After loading up, we traced our way back through the verdant landscape to Piso Aetos, where we were deposited on the empty quayside. Even the little port cantina was completely deserted. We had a while to wait before the boat was due, so we mooched around the port. And then we mooched some more.
The beach of Piso Aetos has just the tiniest sliver of sand and pebble, but the water around the port is that deep turquoise and green that makes you go ‘Oooh’ and ‘Aaaah’.
Eventually, a little dot on the horizon appeared, signalling the impending arrival of the little Lefkada Palace. We were assisted on board with our luggage, and before climbing the steps to the top deck, we took in our final view of Ithaca. Even Peter, a man who rarely shows any emotion, looked thoughtfully as we left her shores.
The journey took 1 hour and 45 minutes. The approach as we sailed through the strait between Meganisi and Lefkada was spectacular. With Meganisi’s long curling tail sprawling out on the right and Lefkada’s high peaks on the other, it felt like we were sailing into a lagoon. This area was littered with yachts zigzagging their way towards us and heading out to destinations new.
We hadn’t planned to stay on Meganisi. We knew it was a short boat trip from Lefkada, so this was our original plan. Then, after looking at the boat schedules, we realised that it would be ridiculous not to. Day trips are fine, but it’s usually once the day trippers have returned to their respective islands that an island can come into its own.
We’d asked our host to arrange a taxi for us. The one thing we knew about Spartochori and our accommodation in particular was that it was up above the port. The name alone – Scorpios View would indicate that it was up high, and the photos on Booking.com also provided us with a few clues. The black people carrier vehicle (allegedly the only taxi on the island) was waiting for us. After loading our bags into the back, we were driven up the winding, pine-clad road to the centre(ish) of the village. The streets were so narrow that the driver couldn’t drop us directly outside our accommodation, but he pointed us down a cobbled street, which we duly followed.
Now I’d expected the property to be easy to identify – maybe a sign saying Scorpios View, but there was nothing to give us any clues. I sent a quick text to our host (who operates remotely) and received a quick response telling us it was the house with the key in the door. We inspected every keyhole in every door along the street and couldn’t find it. We then started looking at side doors until we finally found it.
From the outside, the property looked nothing more than a concrete block with a roof, but after taking the few steps down to the entrance through the unlocked door, we could see it was so much more.
We entered into a bright and spacious apartment. Our eyes were immediately drawn to the view from the front overlooking Spilia Bay and, of course, Scorpios Island. The front door led us to a set of steps down to a terrace. The land around the property had been terraced with stone retaining walls, containing enough soil to establish gardens full of fruit trees. The garden below us had stacks of brightly coloured beehives from which there was a low and constant hum. This place was going to be perfect for us.
Back in the apartment, it seemed that everything we needed was here, from modern appliances, including a washing machine (Oh bliss!) and some breakfast basics and a nice, modern, spacious bathroom. The only thing missing was the bed. Peter and I stared at the sofa in the middle of the room and wondered if this was where we would be sleeping. One of the sofas did indeed convert into a bed, but there was no sign of any bedding. How weird, we thought. At some point, one of us closed the side door, which revealed another set of steps up to the bedroom. What a pair of divvies!
There was no need to unpack as the following day we would be travelling to Lefkada, but before we set off to explore, I wanted to take advantage of the washing machine facility. Although there were only a few items of clothing, I prefer to keep on top of the laundry. A short eco wash later, the clothes were clean and pegged out onto the terrace. It was absolutely scorchio. The light coloured tiles reflected back a light that was almost blinding, and the heat felt magnified by 10. On the plus side, no sooner had the washing been pegged out than it was dry.
https://booking.tp.st/Q3x3MT84From the terrace, we could see that we were almost directly above the port. We wasted no more time going out to explore. We started by taking a walk through the village along the narrow cobbled streets. We passed by traditional white-washed houses brimming with flower-filled gardens. In a small square, there was a set of stones from an old olive press, evidence of the island’s past thriving olive oil industry. The village was charm personified. Spartochori, although being a magnet for tourists, still manages to retain its traditional character.
Back at the entrance to the village, we began a slow descent towards the port, passing a place called Summer Sun located on the corner. It had a nice terrace overlooking the bay – maybe a good place for a pre-meal cocktail! Just below Summer Sun was a viewing point from which to take in the sight of the small port and marina and views over to Lefkada and Ithaca.
From here, a set of over 100 stone steps led us down towards the coast. Thankfully, we were shaded by pine trees on either side, making it a pleasant walk down. The heat of the midday sun beating down on the bodies of the pine forced them to exude a heady resin aroma, just one of those evocative smells I associate with peace and tranquillity (and retsina!).
At the bottom, we found ourselves at a beachside taverna called Porto Spilia. I say beachside – what little there was of it was covered in sun loungers and tables, and chairs. We decide to take a seat under the covered part of the taverna and people-watch with a little ouzo in hand.
After a while, the Meganisi II came into the port and the taverna swiftly emptied, leaving us with the place practically to ourselves. We did toy with the idea of eating there, but reckoned that we’d get a better meal up in Spartochori where they didn’t cater for the masses.
Later that afternoon, we climbed back up the 100 or so steps and went back to the apartment to shower and change. The shower was so big we could have had a party in it. It’s such an asset for a budget accommodation where you’d usually be in danger of concussing yourself on a nearby door or shelf.
Before setting out to eat, we sat on the terrace and took in the view as the sun set behind the mountains of Lefkada. A flock, or rather a ‘murder’ of crows, swooped on the thermals whilst calling to their mates. Noisy buggers but very entertaining to watch. Occasionally, they’d land on the little small holding close by and peck and scratch at the dry earth. Apart from the crows, there was silence. Not a car, not a voice, nor a whisper from anywhere. Maybe everyone else was as engrossed in the sunset as we were.
Soon our stomachs began to rumble, so the evening began at Summer Sun for pre-dinner drinks. A Margarita for me and a beer for Peter.
Later, back in Spartochori village, we didn’t have to walk far until we found a taverna that took our fancy. Just a five-minute walk from the apartment was Taverna Lakis. It wasn’t too busy but still had a bit of life in the place. The food and the service were just great.
Well, Meganisi, we like what we’ve seen so far!
