Skyros Carnival, Kalavryta & Nafplio: 3-Week Winter Greece Itinerary
This three-week winter Greece itinerary covers Skyros for the unique Skyros Geros Carnival (Apokries), the Odontotos rack railway from Diakopto to Kalavryta, and historic Nafplio in the Peloponnese. Best time: February for Carnival, year-round for islands and mainland. Highlights: traditional Geros–Korela–Frangos characters at Kastro, scenic mountain railway through gorges, Holocaust memorial, Cave of Lakes, Kalavryta Ski Centre and Mycenae day trip. No cars were hired during the creation of this itinerary but taxi services were occasionally procured!
I’d wanted to visit Greece in winter for a long time. Previous trips had taken me from April through to early November, but never in between. This journey would finally scratch that itch, combining two bucket list items that had been fermenting on the dusty shelves of my mind for years: witnessing the extraordinary Geros Carnival on Skyros, and riding the famous rack railway through the mountain gorges to Kalavryta.
Looking at my itinerary, it didn’t make much logistical sense – Athens to Skyros, back to Athens, across to Diakopto, up to Kalavryta, down to Nafplio, and finally back to Athens. But bucket list items don’t always arrange themselves neatly. Sometimes you just have to go for it, book the flights, and work out the details later. This trip would take me from an island carnival steeped in ancient tradition, through snow-capped mountains and tragic history, to a town that had captured my heart years before. Greece in winter, at last.
What Makes This Itinerary Special
Witnessing One of Greece’s Most Unique Carnival Traditions
The Skyros Carnival is unlike anything else in Greece. While Patras hosts the country’s largest, most choreographed celebrations, Skyros offers something far more ancient and mysterious. The Geros – men clad in goat masks and weighed down by dozens of heavy goat bells – perform rituals that connect directly to pagan fertility rites predating Christianity. This isn’t carnival as spectacle; it’s carnival as living tradition, performed by the community for the community.
A Bucket List Railway Journey
The Odontotos rack railway from Diakopto to Kalavryta is one of Europe’s most spectacular train journeys. Climbing 750 metres over 22 kilometres, the little train winds through the dramatic Vouraikos Gorge, passing waterfalls, tunnels, and sheer cliff faces. It’s the kind of journey that makes you understand why people become obsessed with trains – pure, unadulterated scenic wonder.
Confronting Difficult History with Respect
Kalavryta carries the weight of one of the worst Nazi atrocities in Greece. On 13th December 1943, German forces massacred the male population of the town. The Holocaust Museum, built on the site of the former school where women and children were imprisoned, tells this story with dignity and power. The memorial cross on Kappi Ridge, visible from the town, marks where the men were executed. Visiting these sites is a profound experience that deepens understanding of Greece’s modern history.
Winter Adventures Beyond the Beach
This itinerary proves that Greece offers far more than summer island hopping. The ski centre on Mount Chelmos, the extraordinary Cave of Lakes in Kastria, the snow-capped mountains visible from Nafplio’s waterfront – winter Greece is a revelation for those willing to explore beyond the beaten track.
A Town That Captures Hearts
Nafplio is the only place in Greece where I can honestly answer “yes” to the question “Could you live here?” This elegant Venetian town, with its dramatic castles, charming old town, and proximity to Mycenae, represents everything wonderful about the Peloponnese. Returning here after years away felt like coming home.
Public Transport Throughout (almost!)
Despite covering an island, mountain villages, and coastal towns, this entire itinerary is achievable by public transport. Flights to Skyros, suburban trains to Diakopto, the rack railway to Kalavryta, buses to Nafplio and Athens – no car rental required, though a good taxi driver in Kalavryta proves invaluable.
The Route at a Glance
Route: Athens → Skyros (flight) → Athens (flight) → Diakopto (train) → Kalavryta (rack railway) → Nafplio (bus via Isthmos) → Athens (bus)
Duration: 3 weeks as travelled: Skyros 5 nights, Diakopto 1 night, Kalavryta 4 nights, Nafplio 6 nights, Athens 4 nights. The mainland portion could be condensed; the Skyros timing depends on Carnival dates.
Transport: Flights Athens-Skyros-Athens; suburban railway to Diakopto via Kato Acharnai and Kiato; Odontotos rack railway Diakopto-Kalavryta; taxi Kalavryta-Isthmos (due to train strikes); KTEL buses Isthmos-Nafplio and Nafplio-Athens.
Best Time: For Carnival, the week before Clean Monday (date varies annually – usually late February/early March). For the mainland portion, year-round, though winter offers snow on the mountains and fewer tourists. Spring brings wildflowers and comfortable hiking temperatures.
Who It’s For: Solo travellers, culture seekers, history enthusiasts, those wanting to experience Greece beyond summer tourism, bucket list completers, and anyone drawn to unique festivals and dramatic landscapes.
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Destination-by-Destination Itinerary
Days 1-5: Skyros (Molos & Chora)
Skyros had been on my mental wish list for years, ever since I’d read about the Skyrian ponies and the extraordinary Goat Carnival. When the Sporades were within reach on previous trips, Skyros was always just that little bit too far out of the way. Now, finally, here I was – arriving on a flight full of Greeks returning home for the festivities, landing at the tiny airport that operates within a military airbase.
As the taxi approached Molos, my jaw literally dropped. The Chora and Kastro came into view – a magical fairy kingdom of whitewashed cuboid buildings tumbling down the slopes, crowned by the Byzantine monastery of St George. That was going to be some trek up there. I should have gone into training beforehand!
Getting There: Sky Express flies from Athens to Skyros (approximately 40 minutes). The airport is in the north of the island within a military airbase – soldiers check passes at the gate. Most arriving passengers have pre-arranged taxis; I shared with a young couple heading the same direction. Taxi to Molos cost approximately €15.
Getting Around: Skyros is best explored on foot or by taxi. There’s a bus service but it’s limited. The main challenge is the 200+ stepped climb from Molos to Chora – allow 30-40 minutes and prepare for burning thighs. Helen at my accommodation said 30 minutes; it took me considerably longer with multiple stops to catch my breath and photograph the views.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Eleana Studios in Molos, run by Helen and her mother, sits overlooking the beach with views across to the dramatic Chora. Compact but newly refurbished rooms, a shared terrace with sea views, and a kitchenette in the corridor. Downstairs is Votsalo Taverna run by Helen’s brother Giannis – extremely handy for evening meals. When I fell ill with a virus mid-stay, Helen’s mama brought homemade avgolemono soup to my room – true Greek hospitality that melted my heart.
Where to Eat: Votsalo Taverna below the apartments serves excellent home-cooked food. Mantzourana on the main street in Molos does really excellent souvlaki. In Chora, the cafes and tavernas around the main square come alive during Carnival – arrive early to stake out a good position.
Don’t Miss:
● The Carnival events themselves – the Geros (goat dancers) with their heavy bells, the Korela (men dressed as women), and the Frangos (the fool)
● The climb to Chora and the Kastro – challenging but rewarding with spectacular views
● Brooke Square with the statue of WWI poet Rupert Brooke, who died and was buried on Skyros
● Clean Monday celebrations when the whole community dances in traditional costume
● The Trata – the carnival boat procession on the final day before Clean Monday
● Amanda’s Farm (Skyrian Horse Project) to see the rare Skyrian ponies
● The souvenir shop run by an enigmatic elderly man selling goat bells, shepherd’s canes, and traditional leather shoes
● Walking along Molos beach to the small marina with old windmill remains
The Reality Check: Carnival on Skyros has a loose framework – you need to be “in the know” to understand what’s happening and when. Events are impromptu and times aren’t advertised. Ask your hosts for guidance. I contracted a virus during my journey that knocked me out for a day – the kindness of my hosts made recovery bearable, but it did mean missing my planned visit to Amanda’s Farm until the final morning. The climb to Chora is genuinely challenging – not recommended if you’re unwell or have mobility issues.
Onward Travel Connection: Aegean/Olympic flight back to Athens. Book the Skyrian ponies visit with Frosini who can arrange transport to Amanda’s Farm en route to the airport if timing works. The airport is tiny – luggage appears within 5 minutes.
🚌 There is a limited bus service on Skyros sometimes updated on the municipality website
→ Read about arriving on Skyros
→ Read about exploring Molos and seeing the first goat dancers
→ Read about Carnival coming to Kastro – there’s a goat on my roof!
→ Read about the Trata and Clean Monday celebrations
→ Read about visiting the Skyrian ponies and farewell to Skyros
Day 6: Athens to Diakopto (Train Journey)
This was always going to be the frenetic part of the trip – a mad dash from Athens Airport via three different trains to reach Diakopto by evening. The Hellenic Train website had been hit and miss when I tried to book, but a helpful man at the travel information booth at the airport confirmed the itinerary and circled all the stations on a map. Athens Airport to Kato Acharnai, same platform for Kiato, then final train to Diakopto. One connection gave me only 5 minutes, which had me nervous.
Getting There: Suburban railway from Athens Airport. Change at Kato Acharnai (stay on same platform) for the train to Kiato. At Kiato, wait approximately 1 hour for the final train to Diakopto. The whole journey takes around 4 hours including waiting time. Star the stations on Google Maps as backup – one announcement on the train didn’t come through clearly (or at all!).
Getting Around: Diakopto is a small beach town easily walkable. The rack railway station is separate from the main train station – follow signs or ask locals.
Where to Stay – This is purely a transit stop for the rack railway – one night is sufficient. Though I was curious about Diakopto and would like to go back and explore again further.
Don’t Miss:
● The crossing of the Corinth Canal by train – have your camera ready (I dropped mine at the crucial moment!)
● The journey itself – watching the landscape change from Athens suburbs to coastal Peloponnese
● The lemon and orange groves around Diakopto
The Reality Check: This is a long day of travel. Arrive at platforms early as trains are punctual. Google Maps sent me in completely the wrong direction in Diakopto – allow extra time finding accommodation after dark. The journey is tiring but sets you up perfectly for the rack railway adventure the following morning.
Onward Travel Connection: Odontotos rack railway to Kalavryta departs 3 times daily. Buy tickets at the glass-fronted building by the track. Check current schedule on the Odontotos website.
🚆Athens Suburban and Regional Train Schedule
🚃 Hellenic Train Diakopto-Kalavryta Schedule
→ Read about the train journey from Athens to Diakopto
Days 7-10: Kalavryta
The journey from Diakopto to Kalavryta on the Odontotos rack railway is pure bucket list magic. The little train climbs through the Vouraikos Gorge, passing waterfalls, tunnels, and dramatic cliff faces. I moved between sides of the carriage for the best views – orange groves leaving Diakopto, then sheer canyon walls, rushing river below, mountains rising all around. When the conductor announced Mega Spileo Monastery (visible high above on the clifftop), I knew we were getting close to Kalavryta.
Kalavryta itself was a revelation. This mountain town, surrounded by snow-capped peaks, carries the weight of a terrible history but wears it with dignity. The clock on the cathedral remains stopped at 2:34pm – the time of the massacre. Yet life goes on: there’s a ski centre, a stunning cave system, local honey and Tentura liqueur, and warm hospitality that touched me deeply.
Getting There: The Odontotos rack railway from Diakopto takes approximately 1 hour, climbing 750 metres through 22 kilometres of spectacular gorge scenery. Sit on the right side leaving Diakopto for the best views of waterfalls and the river. Tickets available at Diakopto station or included in the Kalavryta City Pass.
Getting Around: Kalavryta town is walkable. For the ski centre, Cave of Lakes, and departure to Nafplio, a taxi is essential. Alex the taxi driver comes highly recommended – he became invaluable during my stay, especially when train strikes disrupted my plans.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Filoxenia Spa Hotel, a 5-minute walk from the train station, offered comfortable rooms and wonderful hosts. The Kalavryta City Pass (€24.80) includes return rack railway, ski centre pass, Holocaust Museum entry, and Cave of Lakes – excellent value.
Where to Eat: The town has various tavernas serving hearty mountain food. Try the local oak honey (comparable to the famous Meteora monastery honey) and Tentura, a local cinnamon-spiced liqueur.
Don’t Miss:
● The Holocaust Museum – built on the site of the former school, this powerful museum tells the story of the 1943 massacre with dignity and impact
● Walking up to Kappi Ridge – the memorial site where the men of Kalavryta were executed. The large cross is visible from town
● The stopped clock on the Holy Cathedral of the Assumption
● Kalavryta Ski Centre on Mount Chelmos – even non-skiers can soak up the Alpine atmosphere
● Cave of Lakes (Kastria) – magnificent stalactites and stalagmites, 17km from town
● Mega Spileo Monastery – spectacular location high above the gorge
● The journey back through the gorge by taxi (a different route above the canyon) for aerial views
The Reality Check: My visit coincided with the tragic Tempi train disaster, which triggered national strikes suspending all train services. The planned rack railway return to Diakopto wasn’t possible. Flexibility is essential – Alex the taxi driver saved my trip by driving me all the way to Isthmos for the bus to Nafplio. I also developed a lung infection requiring a hospital visit – the Greek healthcare system proved excellent, with great care and even some laughs. Pack warm layers; even in early March, the mountains are cold with snow at higher elevations.
Onward Travel Connection: In normal circumstances, return via rack railway to Diakopto, then train to Kiato and bus to Corinth/Isthmos for onward bus to Nafplio. Due to train strikes, I took a taxi to Isthmos (approximately €120) via a spectacular route through the mountains with views of snow-capped peaks and a stop at Mega Spileo Monastery for photos. Bus from Isthmos to Nafplio costs €6.50.
🚃 Hellenic Train Diakopto-Kalavryta Schedule
🚆Athens Suburban and Regional Train Schedule
🏩 Book Filoxenia Hotel and Spa here
→ Read about the Odontotos rack railway journey
→ Read about settling into Kalavryta and visiting the Holocaust Museum
→ Read about walking up to Kappi Ridge
→ Read about visiting Kalavryta Ski Centre
→ Read about the Cave of Lakes and my hospital adventure
→ Read about leaving Kalavryta and the journey to Nafplio
Days 11-16: Nafplio
Nafplio had grabbed me by both heart and head years before. Standing atop Palamidi Castle on my first visit, looking out over the mountains, the greenery, the orange groves, I’d fallen completely in love. This elegant Venetian town, Greece’s first capital after independence, had prompted a major life change – it was here I decided to pursue my passion for Greece professionally. Now I was returning to see if it could still work its magic.
It could. Arriving from snow-capped Kalavryta to find people swimming at Arvanitia Beach – just two days and 145 kilometres apart – captured the extraordinary diversity of the Peloponnese. The narrow streets of the old town, the Bourtzi castle floating in the harbour, the locals going about their daily lives – Nafplio felt like coming home.
Getting There: KTEL bus from Isthmos (€6.50, departing 13:25). The bus passes the Corinth Canal – have your camera ready. Journey time approximately 1.5 hours. Bus station in Nafplio is centrally located near Plateia Trion Navarchon.
Getting Around: Nafplio is best explored on foot. The old town is compact and flat; the fortresses require climbing. Buses connect to nearby beaches (Tolo) and Mycenae. Taxi rank at the harbour for day trips.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Hotel Polyxenia, near the Town Hall and bus station, offered the perfect base. Alexandra and her sister Maria provided wonderful hospitality including an excellent breakfast. The location “on the flat” near transport connections is ideal, especially if you have luggage or mobility concerns. Previous stay at King Othon Hotel – which I’d loved – showed it now appeared semi-derelict with the courtyard a building site.
Where to Eat: Aiolos Taverna for reliable Greek classics. Antica Gelateria di Roma for what may be the best ice cream in Greece. The cafes along the waterfront for coffee with Bourtzi views.
Don’t Miss:
● Palamidi Castle – the fortress where I fell in love with Nafplio. 999 steps or drive up
● Akronafplia Fortress – the walk around the old citadel with views over the bay
● Bourtzi Castle – the iconic island fortress in the harbour
● The coastal walk to Arvanitia Beach – where locals swim after work
● Ancient Tyrins accessible by bus from Nafplio – ask at bus station for schedules
● Market day near the bus station – doubled in size since 2017, selling produce direct from local farmers
● Day trip to Mycenae – the Lion Gate, Treasury of Atreus, spectacular spring flowers
● Trip to Tolo – easy bus connection to this beach town with golden sand and tamarisk trees
● The narrow streets of the old town with their neoclassical buildings
● Lions of St Mark (Venetian emblem) carved in stone at the Akronafplia gateway
Day Trips from Nafplio: Mycenae (25 minutes by bus) – the Treasury of Atreus and Lion Gate are unmissable. Tolo beach for swimming. Epidaurus (30 minutes) for the ancient theatre with its extraordinary acoustics. Argos for a local market town experience.
The Reality Check: Weather in early March can be dramatic – one evening brought torrential rain that turned narrow alleys into streams, with lightning, thunder, and mist obscuring Bourtzi. The abandoned Xenia Hotel on Akronafplia is atmospheric but slightly eerie. Marathon events and other local happenings can close roads unexpectedly. Six days allowed proper exploration without rushing – highly recommended.
Onward Travel Connection: KTEL bus from Nafplio to Athens (approximately 2.5 hours). Buses run frequently. The station is centrally located in Nafplio. Athens bus terminates at Kifissos station; from there, metro or taxi to your accommodation.
→ Read about rediscovering Nafplio and the walk to Arvanitia Beach
→ Read about market day and a trip to Tolo
→ Read about the trip to Mycenae and revisiting Palamidi Castle
→ Read about the Akronafplia fortress walk and final day in Nafplio
→ Read about the beauty of Nafplio and reflections on the journey
Days 17-20: Athens
Athens is always the perfect way to end a trip. Four days allowed time to explore beyond the usual tourist sites – the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre, a hike on Mount Hymmetus, the vibrant streets of Psiri by day and night. Ending the journey where it began, reflecting on bucket list items finally ticked off, felt right.
Getting Around: Athens has an excellent metro system. The city centre is walkable. Taxi or metro to the airport for departure.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Hotel Attalos in the centre offers a roof terrace with Acropolis views – perfect for evening Masticha while reflecting on your journey. Location near Monastiraki station is ideal for exploring Psiri, Plaka, and the archaeological sites.
Where to Eat: Mavros Gatos in Psiri (5 Navarchou Apostoli) – cosy décor with a Mexican cantina feel, excellent Mani pork and slow-cooked chicken. Psiri in general offers endless options from traditional tavernas to modern restaurants.
Don’t Miss:
● Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre – stunning modern architecture and gardens
● Mount Hymmetus hike – views over the city and the Saronic Gulf
● The Evzones changing of the guard at the Parliament building
● Psiri neighbourhood – graffiti art, creative businesses, lively nightlife
● National Gardens for peaceful walking
● The street art and hidden corners of the historic centre
The Reality Check: Athens is a city for socialising – solo travel here can highlight solitude more than quieter destinations. The nightlife of Psiri is best enjoyed with company. However, the daytime exploration of this endlessly fascinating city never disappoints.
Departure: Welcome Pickups app provides reliable airport transfers. The journey to the airport takes approximately 45 minutes depending on traffic. Alternatively, metro line 3 runs directly to the airport.
🚶➡️Book Mount Hymmetus hike here
🚌 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre shuttle bus schedule
→ Read about the Evzones Grand Parade
→ A visit to the National Museum of Contemporary Art (NMCA) and a stroll around Psiri
→ Read about farewell Athens – reflections and costings
Budget
Trip duration: 20 nights (22 February – 15 March 2023)
I tracked all my expenses for this trip using the TravelSpend app. These costings are representative of a no-frills journey but bloody amazing trip staying in family-run hotels over luxury establishments, local tavernas over tourist restaurants. All figures are in British pounds (GBP), converted at the time of purchase.
| Category | Cost (£) |
|---|---|
| Accommodation | £1,226.30 |
| Transportation | £481.53 |
| Restaurants | £367.98 |
| Sightseeing | £160.46 |
| Medication (antibiotics from hospital) | £75.60 |
| Groceries | £55.45 |
| Souvenirs | £49.51 |
| Drinks/Coffee | £21.22 |
| Fees & Charges | £13.19 |
| Laundry | £12.45 |
| Gifts | £11.56 |
| TOTAL | £2,475.25 Plus Flights x 4 = £331.33 |
Average daily spend: Approximately £124 per day including accommodation, or approximately £62 per day excluding accommodation.
Budget Notes
Flights:
- Return flights from Manchester with Easyjet inc luggage and pre-booked seats £211.80
- Return domestic flights between Athens and Skyros – Comfort Flex ticket £119.53
Accommodation breakdown:
- Skyros (Eleana’s Apartments, 5 nights): approximately £200
- Diakopto (1 night): approximately £45
- Kalavryta (Filoxenia Hotel & Spa, 4 nights): £311.54
- Nafplio (Polyxenia Hotel, 6 nights): £298.33
- Athens (Attalos Hotel, 4 nights): £178.02
Transport highlights: The biggest single transport cost was the taxi from Kalavryta to Isthmos (£132.58 including tip) – a necessity due to the train strikes following the Tempi disaster. The Kalavryta City Pass (€24.80/£21.87) included the rack railway return.
Unexpected costs: Medical expenses totalled £75.60 – I contracted a virus on the journey to Skyros which had developed into a lung infection by the time I reached Kalavryta requiring a hospital visit and prescription medications. The Greek healthcare system was excellent and free of charge – medication payable at the pharmacy. Travel insurance is essential and always carry GHIC card.
Practical Information
Budget Overview: Total trip cost approximately £2,869 for three weeks including flights, accommodation, transport, food, activities, and incidentals. I’m a budget traveller preferring family-run establishments over luxury hotels. The Kalavryta City Pass offers excellent value at €24.80 for multiple attractions.
Transport Notes: This trip relies heavily on public transport, which generally works well but requires flexibility. The Tempi train disaster triggered strikes that disrupted my plans – having a good taxi driver (Alex in Kalavryta) proved essential. When travelling on trains, star stations on Google Maps as backup for train announcements. Ferry and flight connections to Skyros can be affected by weather.
Health Considerations: Greece in winter is cold, especially in the mountains. Pack layers and don’t underestimate the weather. The Greek healthcare system impressed me – efficient, caring, and even good-humoured. Carry basic medications and travel insurance. Wear masks on flights in winter when lurgies abound.
Carnival Timing: The Skyros Carnival culminates on Clean Monday, which falls on a different date each year (determined by Orthodox Easter). Usually late February or early March. Book accommodation and flights well in advance – the island fills up with returning Skyriots.
Disclaimer: This itinerary reflects my February-March 2023 trip. Train schedules, ferry routes, accommodation availability, and prices will have changed. Always check current information before travelling. The Tempi disaster may have resulted in permanent changes to train services.
Is This Trip Right for You?
This itinerary is perfect if you:
- Want to experience Greece beyond summer beach tourism
- Are drawn to unique cultural events and ancient traditions
- Have bucket list items involving spectacular train journeys
- Value history and are comfortable with emotionally challenging sites
- Enjoy solo travel and are confident navigating public transport
- Appreciate dramatic mountain scenery and varied landscapes
- Want to see snow-capped peaks AND swimming beaches in the same trip
- Prefer authentic experiences over tourist infrastructure
Think twice if you:
- Prefer warm weather and beach holidays – winter Greece can be cold and wet
- Have mobility issues – the climbs to Skyros Chora and Nafplio fortresses are challenging
- Dislike improvisation – public transport strikes and weather can disrupt plans
- Find Holocaust history too distressing – the Kalavryta massacre sites are powerful but difficult
- Want nightlife and socialising – solo winter travel can feel isolating in the evenings
- Need fixed schedules – Carnival events on Skyros are impromptu and unpredictable
- Travel with young children – this itinerary involves long travel days and challenging terrain
Final Thoughts
Sitting on the roof terrace of the Hotel Attalos with a Masticha in hand, I reflected on a journey filled with bucket list items now well and truly ticked off. Three weeks earlier I’d been watching goat dancers in the atmospheric Chora of Skyros, their bells clanging through the narrow streets in rituals older than memory. I’d ridden a tiny train through one of Europe’s most spectacular gorges. I’d stood at the memorial cross on Kappi Ridge, where the men of Kalavryta were executed, and understood a little more about Greece’s complicated modern history.
The contrast of this trip stayed with me – swimming at Arvanitia Beach just two days after visiting ski slopes, moving from ancient carnival traditions to sobering Holocaust memorials, experiencing both the kindness of strangers and the chaos of national strikes. This is Greece in winter: unpredictable, emotionally rich, and deeply rewarding for those willing to embrace its complexity.
Nafplio proved once again that it holds a special place in my heart. Standing on Palamidi Castle looking out over the mountains and orange groves, I remembered why this town had prompted such a significant life change years before. Some places just feel like home, even when you’re far from your own.
The kindness encountered along the way was perhaps the greatest treasure: Helen’s mama bringing avgolemono soup to my sickbed, Alex the taxi driver navigating strikes to get me where I needed to be, the doctors and nurses who turned a hospital visit into something almost enjoyable. True Greek hospitality exists year-round, not just during tourist season.
This trip confirmed what I’d suspected for years: Greece in winter offers experiences impossible to find in the crowded summer months. The ancient traditions, the dramatic landscapes, the emotional depth – they’re all there, waiting for those willing to pack warm layers and embrace the unexpected. My next trip is already forming on those dusty shelves of my mind.
If you’d like to see how the journey unfolds in more detail, follow the ‘next’ button below
