A Tale of Four Islands: Syros, Ikaria, Tinos & Andros – A 3-Week Greek Odyssey by Ferry
This three-week Cyclades and North-Eastern Aegean itinerary covers Syros, Ikaria, Tinos and Andros via Athens, by ferry from Piraeus and Rafina. Best time: May to early October. Highlights: neo-classical grandeur of Ermoupolis, bohemian beach life on Ikaria, sacred dovecotes of Tinos, door-knocker treasure hunt in Andros Chora. No car rental needed.
Introduction
September 2021 marked my first solo island-hopping adventure since the world turned upside down. COVID had kept us all grounded, and I was cautious about travelling during these strange times – but the travel ban had just been lifted. Fully jabbed and with the expectation of ongoing testing, I was ready to travel again.
Over the previous months, I’d been following the remarkable journey of Little Amal – a giant processional puppet created for The Walk project. Amal represented a young Syrian refugee as she walked across Greece to raise awareness of the refugee experience. Each time she appeared in a new town or island, I felt a growing pull to be part of it, to stand alongside the people gathering to welcome her and support the message she carried. So when her route finally aligned with my own plans and I realised I could witness her walking through the streets of Athens and Piraeus, it felt like the right moment to step back into the world and begin my journey.
This three-week journey started in Athens and then onto the cultural richness of Piraeus. Both locations gave me the opportunity to do the emotional and memorable walk with Amal. I then continued through a contrasting quartet of islands. Syros with its unexpected Italian grandeur, Ikaria with its reputation for longevity and laid-back living, Tinos with its sacred pilgrimage traditions and extraordinary dovecotes, and finally Andros – an island I’d visited nearly thirty years earlier and was keen to rediscover. Each offered something different, yet all shared that essential Greek ingredient: the warmth of welcome that makes solo travel not just possible, but joyful.
What Makes This Itinerary Special
A Tale of Four Very Different Islands
This route showcases the extraordinary diversity of the Greek islands. Syros, the administrative capital of the Cyclades, surprises with its Venetian Catholic heritage and neo-classical architecture. Ikaria, one of the world’s Blue Zones where people “forget to die,” offers bohemian beaches and a famously relaxed attitude to timekeeping. Tinos draws pilgrims to its miraculous icon but also rewards with marble villages and over a thousand ornate dovecotes. Andros, the greenest of the Cyclades, hides waterfalls, springs, and magnificent ship-owner mansions.
Excellent Public Transport Throughout
Every island on this route has reliable bus services. Syros and Tinos in particular have excellent KTEL networks that make exploring without a car not just possible but preferable. The ferries connect efficiently, and the circular nature of the route – departing Piraeus and returning via Rafina – makes logistics straightforward.
The Perfect Blend of Sacred and Secular
This journey balances spiritual experiences with earthly pleasures. Watch pilgrims crawl on their knees to the Church of Evangelistria on Tinos, then swim at pristine beaches. Explore Catholic Ano Syros perched above Orthodox Ermoupolis. Discover Byzantine monasteries hidden in Andros’s green valleys, then enjoy sunset cocktails overlooking the Aegean.
Architecture That Tells Stories
For anyone who appreciates buildings, this route delivers. The neo-classical grandeur of Ermoupolis speaks of 19th-century maritime wealth. The Venetian dovecotes of Tinos represent centuries of agricultural ingenuity. The ship-owner mansions of Andros Chora, with their elaborate door knockers, whisper of fortunes made at sea. Even Ikaria’s mountain villages, hidden from pirate view, have tales to tell.
Solo-Friendly Islands
These islands attract independent travellers rather than package tourists. The beaches aren’t overcrowded, the tavernas welcome solo diners, and the pace allows for contemplation. Whether you’re seeking the spiritual solitude of Tinos or the social beach-bar scene of Ikaria, there’s space to be alone together.
The Route at a Glance
Route: Athens/Piraeus → Syros (Ermoupolis) → Ikaria (Armenistis) → Tinos (Tinos Town) → Andros (Batsi) → Rafina/Athens
Duration: 3 weeks as travelled, though could be extended. Allow at least 4 nights per island to properly explore; Tinos and Andros especially reward longer stays.
Transport: Blue Star Ferries from Piraeus to Syros; inter-island ferries via Mykonos; Fast Ferries or Superferry from Andros to Rafina. Excellent local bus networks on all islands.
Best Time: May through October for reliable ferries and swimming weather. September offers warm seas, quieter beaches, and softer light. Note that some services reduce after mid-September.
Who It’s For: Independent travellers, architecture enthusiasts, beach lovers, those interested in religious heritage, and anyone seeking a mix of mainstream and off-beat Greek island experiences.
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Island-by-Island Itinerary
Days 1-2: Athens and Piraeus
My journey began with something extraordinary. Little Amal – a 3.5-metre representation of a young Syrian refugee – was walking through Piraeus as part of an international arts project called The Walk. I timed my trip to witness her farewell to Greece before she continued her journey to Italy, and it proved to be one of the most moving experiences of my travels.
Getting There: Athens International Airport has excellent connections worldwide. The metro runs directly to Piraeus (approximately 1 hour, €10). Alternatively, bus X96 runs 24 hours.
Getting Around: Piraeus is compact and walkable. The metro connects to central Athens. For the ferry port, Gate 7 serves Blue Star Ferries to the Cyclades.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: In Athens, my preferred ‘go to’ is the Attalos Hotel but it was fully booked (a result of my own procrastination) so I stayed in an apartment near Monastiraki. Hotel Anemoni in Piraeus offers basic but comfortable accommodation near the port. Perfect for an early ferry departure or late arrival. The reception area provides a useful space for downloading photos and killing time before ferries.
Don’t Miss:
● The waterfront walk from Pasalimani Marina to the Municipal Theatre
● The Archaeological Museum of Piraeus (if time allows)
● Fresh fish at one of the harbour-front tavernas
● An evening stroll around Mikrolimano, the picturesque small harbour
Onward Travel Connection: Blue Star Ferries connect Piraeus with Syros several times daily (most days) (approximately 4 hours). Ferries depart from Gate 7.
🏩 Book Attalos Hotel here
🏩Book Anemoni Hotel in Piraeus here
→ Read about walking with Amal in Piraeus
→ Read about Amal’s farewell and the ferry to Syros
Days 3-7: Syros (Ermoupolis and Voulias)
Syros surprised me. As the administrative capital of the Cyclades, I expected bureaucratic efficiency but not the extraordinary neo-classical architecture of Ermoupolis or the medieval Catholic labyrinth of Ano Syros perched above. This is an island that tells a different story from its neighbours – of 19th-century prosperity, religious coexistence, and a cosmopolitan heritage that predates the tourist era.
Getting Around: Syros has an excellent KTEL bus service. Standard fare is €1.60 regardless of destination. Buses run regular routes connecting Ermoupolis to Ano Syros, Kini, Galissas, and other villages. Masks were required on buses during my visit. Taxis are available – Zakis is a reliable driver (€4 to Ano Syros from Ermoupolis).
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Voulias Apartments sits in the hills above Kini with spectacular views down to the coast and magnificent sunsets. The location is “away from it all but within easy reach of the beaches and town.” A wind turbine marks the nearest bus stop. The walk down to Kini takes about 30-40 minutes; the climb back is more challenging but the bus pass through on a circular route from Ermoupolis to Kini and back to town. Taxis are readily available. I highly recommend Voulias for travellers wanting peace and quiet and amazing views.
Where to Eat: O Mitsos taverna, about 10 minutes’ walk from Voulias, offers spectacular views over Ermoupolis. Order via QR code – try the scordalia, chicken souvlaki, and retsina. In Ermoupolis, Miaouli Square has numerous options for a final meal before ferry departure. Kini has beachfront tavernas including Blue Harmony for breakfast.
Don’t Miss:
● The climb to Ano Syros – “like Kali Strata on steroids” with its steep, narrow lanes and Catholic churches
● St George Catholic Church at the highest point of Ano Syros for panoramic views
● The neo-classical grandeur of Ermoupolis, including the Apollo Theatre and Town Hall
● Kini beach for organised sand and tamarisk shade
● Galissas for a different beach atmosphere
The Reality Check: Syros has a character all of its own, and to be honest, was a slow grower. I really enjoyed discovering a different side of the Cyclades here. Ermoupolis and Ano Syros are an absolute joy to wander — full of elegant architecture, grand squares, and little corners that feel more European than island-like. It’s quite unlike anywhere else in the archipelago. For anyone who loves history, culture, and beautifully preserved neoclassical buildings, Syros is a real treat and well worth adding to an itinerary.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferries connect Syros to Ikaria via the port of Evdilos on Ikaria’s north coast. See Ikaria below for more transport information.
🚌 KTEL Syros Bus Schedule
→ Read about Arrival on Syros and a Mountain View
→ Read about exploring Ano Syros, Kini and Galissas
Days 8-12: Ikaria (Armenistis)
Ikaria bills itself as the island where people forget to die – one of the world’s Blue Zones famous for longevity. What I found was an island with a distinctly bohemian atmosphere, spectacular mountain scenery, and a pace of life so relaxed that conventional timekeeping seems almost irrelevant. The beaches around Armenistis are stunning, but I left feeling I’d barely scratched the surface despite having visited the island before. My last trip took me to Therma on the south coast of the island. This was my opportunity to visit the other side arriving at the port of Evdilos instead of Agios Kirykos.
Getting Around: Ikaria is challenging without a car. The island is long and split by a mountain range, with treacherous roads that require confidence to navigate. Buses are practically non existent bar a coastal service in the north during summer. I took a taxi from Evdilos Port to my accommodation in Armenistis just 12km away. Taxis require pre-booking or you may have a long wait for the next available one. I chose to stay in Armenistis and explore on foot, accepting that the mountain villages and southern coast would remain mysteries for another visit. Ikaria also has an airport at the easternmost tip of the island. Airport transfers can be expensive if staying in Armenistis and beyond or Agios Kirykos/Therma
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Daidalos Hotel in Armenistis offers a touch of luxury with sea-view rooms, a swimming pool, and breakfast included. The outdoor breakfast area under cedar trees overlooking the sea is particularly lovely. Rooms have balconies with wave sounds as your alarm clock.
Where to Eat: Thea’s Restaurant offers views and good food. The beach bars at Messakti serve casual meals with sand between your toes. Don’t expect speedy service anywhere – Ikaria operates on its own timeline.
Don’t Miss:
● Nas beach – one of Ikaria’s most beautiful, with ruins of the Temple of Artemis
● The freshwater lagoon at Nas beach, home to Caspian terrapins
● Messakti beach for swimming in crystal-clear turquoise water
● Sunset drinks overlooking the Aegean
● The walk between beaches along the coastal path
What I Missed: Because I’d been to Ikaria before and was lucky enough to have done an island trip when there used to be an agency that ran them, I determined to stay local and soak up everything this part of the island had to offer. A car would unlock many treasures such as the mountain villages with their hidden houses (concealed from pirates), ancient forests and waterfalls, wineries, potteries, and local artisans.
The Reality Check: The end of the season meant some services were winding down. Strong winds on the coast contrasted with calm, hot conditions inland. I felt I’d barely scratched the surface, yet sensed many secrets were waiting to be unlocked. Ikaria compels at least a third return visit. ‘Tis the quality of a one’s island visits not the quantity of islands visited!
Onward Travel Connection: in 2021, ferries from Evdilos connected directly with Tinos. I found when booking a similar trip for my clients that this direct connection with Tinos had ceased. The boat now connects with only Syros via Mykonos. Mykonos is a short distance from Tinos so this may be an alternative way to get there. Check ferry schedules carefully
→ Read about arriving on Ikaria
→ Read about barely scratching the surface of Ikaria
Days 13-17: Tinos (Tinos Town)
Tinos was a revelation. Where Mykonos offers hedonism, neighbouring Tinos offers piety – yet it’s so much more than a pilgrimage island. The famous Church of the Evangelistria draws the faithful, but the marble villages, thousand-plus ornate dovecotes, and warm local culture make this one of the Cyclades most wonderful discoveries. I arrived thinking I’d spend a couple of days; I could have stayed a month.
Getting Around: Tinos has an excellent bus service – genuinely one of the best in the Greek islands. Regular buses connect Tinos Town to Pyrgos, Panormos, Kionia, and the inland villages. Organised waiting areas at the bus station (which I affectionately dubbed “the cattle shed”) have seating sections for each destination. No car needed here.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Flisvos Apartments in Tinos Town offers comfortable accommodation with a balcony and very comfortable beds. The location provides easy access to the waterfront, bus station, and Church of the Evangelistria. Simple but perfectly adequate for a base to explore.
Where to Eat: The waterfront has numerous tavernas and cafés. Drosia taverna in Ktikados village came highly recommended on my guided tour. The bakeries in town sell excellent pastries and bougatsa for breakfast. A local market near the bus station offers honey, olives, and produce.
Don’t Miss:
● The Church of Evangelistria and its miraculous icon (viewings at 8am and 8pm)
● Watching Sunday pilgrims walk on their knees up Leof. Megalocharis (carpet laid out)
● The dovecotes of Tarampados and Kampos – over 1000 on the island, brought by Venetians
● Pyrgos village, the marble-carving centre of the island
● A private guided tour with local guide Valentina for deeper insight
● The resident pelican at the bus station!
Day Trips from Tinos Town: The bus to Panormos offers spectacular coastal views. Kionia beach lies just outside town with the Temple of Poseidon ruins nearby. The interior villages – accessible by the excellent bus service – reward exploration with traditional architecture and craft workshops.
The Reality Check: Tinos has a strong religious atmosphere that dominates, particularly on feast days and Sundays. If you’re uncomfortable around overt displays of faith, this might not be your island. Beach facilities were winding down by late September. But for architecture, culture, and authentic Greek island life, Tinos exceeded all expectations.
Onward Travel Connection: Multiple ferries connect Tinos to Andros every day (approximately 1.5 hours).
→ Read about first impressions of Tinos and a trip to Pyrgos
→ In search of Dovecotes and Chimneypots
→ Read about the guided tour of Tinos with Valentina
→ Last Day on Tinos – Pilgrims, Crocs and Jellyfish
Days 18-21: Andros (Batsi)
I first visited Andros nearly thirty years ago on my earliest Greek island-hopping adventure, which is really where I got the bug for island hopping – a far more rewarding experience than one-centre package holidays. Returning felt like greeting an old friend – though one who had changed considerably. The greenest of the Cyclades, Andros hides waterfalls, springs, and walking trails in its interior, while the coast offers beaches and the charming resort of Batsi. And then there’s Andros Chora, which sent me into a complete door-knocker frenzy.
Getting Around: Ferries arrive at Gavrion port on the west coast. Batsi is about 10-15 minutes by taxi. The bus service connects Gavrion, Batsi, and Andros Chora, with the journey to Chora taking approximately 50 minutes through spectacular scenery. The bus climbs the hillside on the coastal route before crossing to the island’s eastern side.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Elpida in Batsi, with host John, offered a welcoming home for four nights. The room had a balcony overlooking Kolona Beach in a deep, sheltered bay. Batsi beach itself – gold sand backed by tamarisk trees – lies just below with organised facilities and even wheelchair access into the sea. Accommodation was fairly basic, but everything was made up for by excellent hosts.
Where to Eat: Taverna Cavo Meze was a place a returned to several times. Great food and hospitality overlooking the bay. Loukou Bomb café, at the start of the road climbing out of Batsi, has a terrace overlooking the bay – perfect for breakfast. Capriocchio Bar at the end of the bay overlooks the beach (owned by a friend’s uncle, as I discovered through wonderful Greek coincidences). The centre of Batsi has numerous taverna options.
Don’t Miss:
● Andros Chora – magnificent neo-classical mansions painted in pastels, reflecting maritime wealth
● The door knockers on the grand houses of Faneromenis Street – I went into a complete frenzy!
● Menites village – a walker’s paradise with springs trickling from marble lion heads
● Pythara Waterfall in Apoikia – beautiful and biodiverse
● The Monastery of St Irene and its collections of historical artefacts
● Kolona Beach for a quiet, sheltered swim
Day Trips from Batsi: A guided half-day tour with Savvas from VLM Travel Agency covered Paleopolis (submerged ancient city visible from above), Menites village, Pythara Waterfall, and the Monastery of St Irene. Highly recommended for accessing the island’s interior without a car. The bus to Andros Chora makes a satisfying independent excursion.
The Reality Check: Four nights felt too short. I left feeling I needed to return – Andros has walking trails, more villages, and entire coastlines I never reached. The island requires either a car or willingness to book tours to fully appreciate. But the door knockers of Andros Chora alone made the visit worthwhile!
Onward Travel Connection: Ferries from Gavrion to Rafina take approximately 2 hours. From Rafina, buses connect to Athens Airport and central Athens. This circular route – departing Piraeus and returning via Rafina – works logistically well.
ℹ️VLM Travel Agency for island tours
→ Read about arriving on Andros and settling into Batsi
→ Read about Andros Chora and the door-knocker frenzy
→ Read about the guided tour of Andros with Savvas
Practical Information
Budget Notes: Accommodation ranged from simple apartments (€30-40/night) to the more comfortable Daidalos Hotel on Ikaria (approximately €60-70/night including breakfast). Meals at local tavernas averaged €12-18. Ferry tickets varied – budget approximately €20-40 per crossing depending on speed and route. Bus fares are minimal (€1.60-2.50). Overall, this is a moderately priced route with options for both budget and comfort.
Booking Ahead: September 2021 required advance booking due to reduced capacity and COVID protocols. In normal times, all islands except perhaps Ikaria in peak August have sufficient accommodation options. Ferries can be booked through Ferryhopper or direct with ferry companies. Guided tours should be arranged a day or two ahead.
Ferry Tips: Blue Star Ferries serve the Piraeus-Syros route reliably. Inter-island connections often route via Mykonos. The return from Andros to Rafina is straightforward with frequent Fast Ferries sailings. Track ferries on MarineTraffic. In September, some services begin to reduce – check schedules carefully.
Disclaimer: This itinerary is based on my trip in September 2021, during ongoing COVID-19 restrictions. Some protocols described (vaccination certificates, mask requirements) have changed. Ferry schedules, accommodation options, and prices will have evolved. Always check current information before travelling.
Is This Trip Right for You?
This itinerary is perfect if you:
- Appreciate architecture – from neo-classical to Venetian to vernacular
- Enjoy exploring by public transport (buses are excellent on most islands)
- Want a mix of beaches, culture, and authentic island life
- Are interested in religious heritage and pilgrimage traditions
- Like discovering quirky details – dovecotes, door knockers, hidden springs
- Prefer independent travel over package tourism
- Can manage without a car (though it limits exploration on Ikaria and Andros)
- Value quality over quantity – four islands in three weeks allows proper immersion
Think twice if you:
- Want non-stop nightlife (Mykonos is next door if that’s your priority)
- Need luxury resort facilities throughout
- Prefer to drive and explore independently (Ikaria especially needs a car for full exploration)
- Feel uncomfortable around religious observance (Tinos in particular)
- Want guaranteed pristine beaches (some were winding down by late September)
- Expect everything to run precisely on schedule (Ikaria especially operates on “island time”)
Final Thoughts
This journey began with something I’d never experienced – walking in solidarity through the streets of Athens and Piraeus with Little Amal. She highlighted the plight of refugees and touched hearts and drew crowds despite the strange times we were living through. Her farewell lingered with me, bringing back memories of Patras and the people I met there who spoke about the heartbreak of leaving their families and the places they loved.
I found it hard to draw myself away, but I did, and what followed was a reminder of why I keep returning to Greece. Each island offered something different: Syros’s unexpected grandeur, Ikaria’s bohemian soul, Tinos’s sacred complexity, Andros’s green valleys and maritime heritage. Some I fell in love with (Tinos), some intrigued me without quite capturing my heart (Syros), some left me determined to return and dig deeper (Ikaria and Andros both).
Travelling solo during uncertain times required adaptability and acceptance. Masks on ferries and buses, vaccination certificates at ferry gates, testing centres before flights home – these became part of the rhythm. But through it all, the essential Greek welcome remained unchanged. Strangers became connections (discovering a friend in common with Adamantia on Andros), tavernas fed the soul as well as the body, and ferries still sailed across wine-dark seas.
I left Greece that September having proven to myself that solo travel was still possible, still rewarding, still the best way I know to understand the world. The islands were quieter than usual, the protocols sometimes frustrating, but the light on the Aegean was as golden as ever. Some things, thankfully, don’t change.
If you’d like to see how this journey unfolds, follow the ‘next’ link below.
