A late bus from Aitoliko crosses the Acheloos from Aetolia into Acarnania and drops down to a deep bay on the Ionian coast. Astakos brings a neoclassical apartment at the foot of Mount Veloutsa, a history that runs from the ancient city of Astacus to the Battle of Lepanto and the acorn trade, and a first dinner at a grill house called Souvlomania.