A Rude Awakening and Exploring Istanbul’s Asian Side with More Greek Connections
Exploring Istanbul’s Asian side in Kadıköy, searching for Greek churches, old houses and traces of a past that still lingers in the streets.
Exploring Istanbul’s Asian side in Kadıköy, searching for Greek churches, old houses and traces of a past that still lingers in the streets.
Exploring Büyükada and its Greek connections, from churches and monasteries to old wooden houses that reflect the island’s past.
An 8 week trip – Istanbul to Athens itinerary following a real route across the Aegean by ferry and bus, with practical detail and key stops along the way.
With 7 crossings between Meganisi and Nidri running from early doors until 1830 every day, we had time to go and visit Vathy before leaving for Lefkada. I messaged our host and asked if it would be OK to leave our cases in the apartment and he replied in the affirmative. If they should get…
Before returning to the apartment to pack, we collared a taxi driver in Vathy’s main square and arranged for him to take us to the port the following morning. After completing the tedious deed of re-packing, we sat on the balcony soaking up the view over Vathy for one last time. Tonight, the town was…
Today we have arranged a tour of the north of the island booked with Ithaca Travel. After grabbing a bougatsa from the bakery, we made our way to the office to wait for our guide. Stefania looked a little flustered that morning. It was almost like she’d forgotten we’d booked a tour, even though it…
Sunday announced itself with the pealing of bells from across the bay. As soon as a set of chimes from one church ended, another from another direction began. I’d already lost track of the days, but now there was no mistake that the day of worship had arrived. The warm egg-yolk yellow light from the…
No sooner had we unpacked than we were out and ready to explore Vathy. We began by taking an alley one row behind the waterfront, lined with old stone houses. Brightly coloured rugs hung from balconies, gently airing in the breeze. There is just the right mixture of patina and decay, which, of course, adds…
This morning we leave Kefalonia for Ithaca (or Ithaka if you prefer!). With freshly baked bougatsas in hand, we take the side street next to Fatto a Mano bakery, which brings us directly to the harbour front. Waiting is the ferry Ionio Pelagos, engines thrumming and the faintest whiff of smoke from the funnel. Habitually…
Today marks our final full day on Kefalonia — and I can’t quite believe how quickly the time has flown. We’re trading the bustle of Argostoli for the peaceful charm of Sami, where we’ll spend our last night before moving on. After one last sweep of the lovely Portogal Apartments, we lug our bags downstairs,…
After 2 days of marching the length and breadth of Argostoli, we felt (I felt) that today we deserved a more relaxing day. The nearest sandy beaches are over the hill towards Lassi. Peter had also spotted another ‘interesting’ landmark on the map that he thought we should visit along the way – the Cave…
I must admit that choosing where to stay on Kefalonia was initially a bit of a head-scratcher. Being the largest Ionian island and the 6th largest island in Greece overall, there’s a lot of ground to cover. We chose Argostoli, the island’s capital, purely for logistical reasons. Not only is the main bus station located…
Solo dining in Greece taught me that where they seat you tells you everything. A new community platform where solo female diners rate their taverna experiences — not the food, but the welcome.