Oil wrestling isn’t what comes to mind when you think of Greece; but at Sochos, it’s a centuries-old tradition, and one wrapped in genuine controversy. Greeks and Turks alike fiercely claim it as their own. The real history, it turns out, runs back through ancient Egypt, Persia and the Seljuks, and is far too tangled for either side to own outright.
This is the final post of a two-month journey that took me from Istanbul to Athens via the Sea of Marmara, the Turkish Aegean coast, several Greek islands and the Peloponnese. It was not planned in any conventional sense. It started with my aunt Janet, who wanted to visit Constantinople. It ended, as these things sometimes do, somewhere else entirely.
A slow, sun-soaked day on Bozcaada with a breakfast feast, a curious little monastery, the golden sands of Ayazma Beach and a relaxed wander through the village.
A travel diary of the Çanakkale to Bozcaada ferry journey: buses, crossing, castle & village lanes on the Turkish-Aegean island that echoes Greece.
A walk through Çanakkale’s old town and harbour leads to a short ferry crossing to Kilitbahir, where Ottoman forts and Gallipoli memorials line the Dardanelles.
This post continues a visit to Ancient Troy, moving beyond the Trojan Horse to explore the archaeological site and its many layers of history. It forms part of a wider journey across the Aegean.
Trying to leave Marmara Adası and reach Çanakkale turns into a lesson in uncertain ferry schedules, guesswork and how travel really works in this part of Turkey.
A final day on Marmara Adası, taking in the island’s atmosphere and reflecting on the experience before moving on.
A visit to Çınarlı on Marmara Adası, exploring its plane trees, promenade and relaxed village life away from the main town.
A visit to Asmalı on Marmara Adası, wandering the village in search of old Greek houses and traces of its past.
The morning we left Istanbul it was throwing it down. The heat had dropped a little, but the feeling was now one of a steaming sauna. Last night, before returning to our hotel, we had commandeered a taxi driver to pick us up from our hotel this morning – no time for the inclusive breakfast,…
The tram took us over the Golden Horn to Karaköy. My favourite way to cross is by boat, but the tram is faster. We began our day with a plan – to look for churches. Our reasoning was simple — wherever there was a church, there would once have been Greek houses. These were usually…
