Arrival on Chios – Destination Pyrgi!

This trip will take me along a well-trodden path.  18 months ago I had one of my most enjoyable Greek island hopping trips to date.  The thing with solo travel is there are so many moments along the way that you wish you could share it with your loved ones.  This time I will be returning to Chios with my husband to take him to the incredible places I’d previously visited.  Yes, there is the blog and my many musings on social media but my husband isn’t interested in that kind of thing.  He’s a simple soul who finds social media an interference in life.  And I get that. Be more like Peter I say!

I’d been extolling the virtues of Chios ever since returning home – the unique hospitality and friendliness of the people, the magical mastic villages, the beautiful mountain settlements and just a very special something that I can’t quite articulate. So I embark upon this trip with a little bit of trepidation as this trip has some big boots to fill. Will it live up to my experiences of the previous trip? This is the risk that I have to take.

Another added element to our travels is that we will be on Chios during the Orthodox Easter festival.  Easter in Greece is a very special experience and every town and city has its own unique customs.  On Chios, they have Rouketopolemos also known as the Rocket Wars.  In a nutshell, this is where the rival parishes of St. Mark’s and Panaghia Ereithiani fire thousands of homemade rockets at each other’s opposing bell towers. Whoever scores the most hits is declared the winner. Whatever the outcome, there is rarely an agreement on the final score so the gauntlet is thrown down again for the following year.

At this point, we don’t know if Rouketopolemos 2024 will go ahead.  I’ve been in communication with the Tourist Office for several weeks, but they are awaiting the decision from the Mayor’s Office.  This event is not without its casualties. Despite measures to protect the churches and the neighbouring properties, some locals campaign every year to put an end to this event once and for all.  We wait with bated breath for news from the Mayor.

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So on Thursday we arrived in Athens and overnighted in Artemida.  I’ve mentioned in previous posts, that this is a great location to overnight if you don’t fancy going into Central Athens.  Artemida, Rafina and Spata are very close to the airport and several accommodations provide two-way airport transfers that are included in their rates.  It must be said that in Spata there is very little in the way of amenities (having stayed there twice in the past).  At least with Artemida and Rafina, you have a good selection of shops and tavernas to choose from as with most seaside towns.

This time we are staying at Sun Day Apartments – just a place plucked from Booking.com.  I’d communicated with the apartments before our arrival to arrange the airport pickup. It all went very smoothly and we only had a 5 minute wait for the car.

Although a little further out from the place where I’d previously stayed, the apartments are very nice – clean and modern. They are set in well-tended gardens in a very peaceful location and a 10 minute walk to the beachside tavernas. Just beyond this is the heart of the town. 

Our host recommended that we go to Archontikon Taverna – one of the best along the stretch of beach. So this is where we go.  Honestly, there is nothing like that first meal and glass of Retsina to get you in the holiday mood!

The following day we are up bright and early for our transfer back to Athens Airport. After checking in our luggage and clearing security, we head to a cafe for breakfast. That first bougatsa of the holiday is also very special!

The flight over is very good despite a bit of cloud cover. As soon as I spot the strings of wind turbines along the spine of the landscape I know that we are over Evia – a very distinctive marker. Soon after we pass Skyros. The flight is only 35 minutes and as soon as we see the little island of Psara we begin to make our descent into Chios.

Once through the layers of cloud, the Chian landscape comes into view. We approach from the south and the distinctive fortified mastic villages come into view. Soon after we are over Kampos with its magnificent archontiko’s surrounded by vast acreages of citrus orchards. Chios is lush and verdant with rich, fertile plains.

I’ve often written about the excitement of arriving on an island by ferry but this experience can rival it too.

After disembarking from the plane it is a short walk across the apron to the small airport terminal. As we wait at luggage reclaim, just a short conveyor belt inside the terminal building, I can sense an air of festivity. Most of the passengers are met by friends and family with loud shouts, strong hugs and plenty of kisses. Home for Easter with their loved ones!

We were able to get a taxi almost immediately and then head straight to Chios Town. Although we will be spending our first four nights in Pyrgi, we have a few errands to run in Chios Town. Firstly we dump our luggage in the left luggage lockers at the bus station. Just a note – these lockers are out of order and have been for some time. They don’t lock and the bottom lockers have been commandeered by the owner of the cafe as a storage place for crates of soft drinks. The lady in the cafe tells us that the bags will be OK. We will only be 30 minutes so cram the cases into the lockers and shut the doors the best we can.

Our first stop is at Sunrise Travel to confirm the details about a trip we have booked.  Then we call in at the very helpful Tourist Information Office near the bus station to see if there has been any news from the mayor. Unfortunately, there hasn’t but an announcement is expected soon. Finally, we returned to the bus station to pick up our luggage and catch the bus to Pyrgi.

Bus No 4 heads out of the town, past the citrus orchards of Kampos and before long we are driving alongside acres of mastic plantations. Up in the village of Tholopotami, the bus just about manages to squeeze itself through the narrow street of the village. Once through the village of Armolia we know that we are well and truly in the heart of mastic country.

Now in Pyrgi, the bus stops next to the supermarket on the main road. We retrieve our luggage from the underbelly of the bus and heave it up through the entrance to the village. We pass the first small square with its monument and small cafe Kato Porta (lower door)- a nice place for a relaxing coffee. Continuing up we now approach the main square shaded by mulberry trees. It all feels so familiar. Sitting in the cafes and tavernas located around the periphery of the square are small groups of locals seemingly denoted by age and gender. Nothing has changed since I was here last. Right now the square appears half asleep but I know it will take on a new life later this evening where it will become the centre of activity!

Just beyond the beautifully painted Church of the Assumption of the Virgin is the narrow alleyway that leads us to To Pounti – our wonderful abode for the next 4 nights.  I rap on the iron lion door knocker and a voice from the roof terrace calls to us.  It’s Toula.  Several minutes later she is at the door and welcomes us in.

Toula tells us that Mr Kosta is in the north of the island but will be back in a few days. He has taken Fidelina the parrot with him. Toula shows us to one of two rooms that are rented out. We are staying in the room at the front of the property overlooking the alleyway – the same room that I’d stayed in previously.

The antique furniture has been carefully curated and befits the era of the property. An ornately carved sideboard is set off with a vase of freshly picked flowers. The attention to detail is perfection – but more about the house in another post!

Space is tight but with a little bit of rejigging, we make space for our luggage. No sooner are we in the room than Toula brings us up a tray with spoon sweets, two glasses of mastica, a small bag of masticha and some freshly baked cakes. Staying with Toula and Mr Kosta is where you will experience the very best of Greek hospitality. It’s great to be back!

After organising our luggage we go for initial explorations of the village and I am soon reminded of why I enjoy being in Pyrgi so much. Everyone that you pass will greet you with a ‘Kalispera’ or a ‘Yiasas’. You are made to feel welcome, very soon.

Pyrgi is completely unique and of course, is mostly known for the incredible geometric and sometimes floral ‘Xysta’ designs adorning the buildings. But the village is much more than that and it will take more than a fleeting visit to discover this.

Weary from our travels we decide to eat at Mastixaki. Their terrace overlooking the main square provides the best ‘people watching’ opportunities in the village. The sleepy village plateia is now waking up and is soon buzzing with activity. By activity I mean sitting, eating, drinking, chatting and just generally enjoying life!

After the meal, we walk to the smaller plateia for a cup of tea. As this is brought to our table the lady greets us with ‘Chiarete’ and tells us that the sentiment of the word means ‘we are happy to see you.’ Well Pyrgi, I’m more than happy to see you and it is so good to be back!