Oxi Day on Koufonissi and a Walk to Pori

Today is Oxi Day. There is not much evidence of it here on Koufonissi – no posters or obvious electioneering or even queues at polling stations. The only thing we can see is on the TV news. It looks like Oxi has it!

We are up early and start by walking through Chora, stopping for bougatsa at the bakery. Always a good choice!

On the outskirts of Chora we come to an old boatyard, a kafenion and a windmill which has been converted into accommodation. Looking on Google maps it is listed as Windmill Karnagio but on Booking.com it is listed as Windmill Villa.

We follow the coastal path up past Parianos Bay where Aneplora Taverna is located and where we had eaten the night before.

We can see the path stretching out in front of us with Naxos so close in the background you feel that you can almost touch it.

There isn’t anything of note marked on the map and we reach a point where the path begins to turn inland – so we follow it. It takes us past some beautiful Cycladic style houses with some unique features and before we know it we reach the Church of St George on the edge of Chora.

We’ve been walking for about two hours so fall into a small cafe bar for refreshments.

We take a slow amble through Chora. Remove the tourists and the boutiquified bars and shops and you can just about see what remains of this pretty, traditional village.

We decide to go to Finika Beach and choose to go by bus. We then realised that it was really close and we could have walked to it quite easily. We have to remember that the island is only 26 kilometres square!

This Eastern side of the island is the side closest to the open sea in the direction of the Dodecanese islands and Turkey and that could be why there is a strong wind across the beach. The beach is busy and there isn’t any shade. We decide to walk to Pori but up through the hills. We had asked the bus driver if it was possible – he said it was but it is “difficult”. He had tried to explain where we needed to go but in the end we just headed off in the direction that we thought made sense.

We walked across scrub land, passing the occasional house or small holding. Before long we were back on the road. Across the fields we could see a farmer gathering in his cows. As we reached the farm, the farmer was herding the cows across the road, giving us a wave as he passed.


Just a little further we reach Pori where the waves crash onto the rocks. Here you can see some very interesting caves and rock formations here notably the Ksylompatis Caves. The beach itself is unorganised but nice fine golden sand. However, the wind is playing havoc today so we’re not going to loiter on the beach. Instead we make our way to Taverna Kalofego where we have meatballs, small fish, tzatziki and wine which just about finishes us off!

Back at Hippocampus I realise that I’ve got a bit sun burnt – and that’s with Factor 50! I’ll blame it on the wind. We spend the rest of the afternoon sitting on the balcony watching the ferries come and go. Later we go to Milos windmill bar for raki and ouzo and that made us feel a bit better!

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