Further explorations of Koufonissi and a national referendum.

Today is the day of a referendum to decide on whether Greece will accept the bailout conditions from the European Union. There is not much evidence of obvious campaigning here – no posters or even queues at polling stations. The only thing we can see is on the TV news. It looks like Oxi has it!

We are up early and start by walking through Chora, stopping for bougatsa at the bakery. Always a good choice!


On the outskirts of Chora we come to an old boatyard, a kafenion and a windmill which has been converted into accommodation. Looking on Google maps it is listed as Windmill Karnagio but on Booking.com it is listed as Windmill Villa.

We follow the coastal path up past Parianos Bay where Aneplora Taverna is located and where we had eaten the night before.


We can see the path stretching out in front of us with Naxos so close in the background you feel that you can almost touch it.


There isn’t anything of note marked on the map and we reach a point where the path begins to turn inland – so we follow it. It takes us past some beautiful Cycladic style houses with some unique features and before we know it we reach the Church of St George on the edge of Chora.


We’ve been walking for about two hours so fall into a small café bar for refreshments.


We take a slow amble through Chora. Remove the tourists and the boutiquified bars and shops and you can just about see what remains of this pretty, traditional village.


We decide to go to Finika Beach and choose to go by bus. We then realised that it was really close and we could have walked to it quite easily. We have to remember that the island is only 26 kilometres square!

This Eastern side of the island is the side closest to the open sea in the direction of the Dodecanese islands and Turkey and that could be why there is a strong wind across the beach. The beach is busy and there isn’t any shade. We decide to walk to Pori but up through the hills. We had asked the bus driver if it was possible – he said it was but it is “difficult”. He had tried to explain where we needed to go but in the end we just headed off in the direction that we thought made sense.

We walked across scrub land, passing the occasional house or small holding. Before long we were back on the road. Across the fields we could see a farmer gathering in his cows. As we reached the farm, the farmer was herding the cows across the road, giving us a wave as he passed.


Just a little further we reach Pori where the waves crash onto the rocks. Here you can see some very interesting caves and rock formations here notably the Ksylompatis Caves. The beach itself is unorganised but nice fine golden sand. However, the wind is playing havoc today so we’re not going to loiter on the beach. Instead we make our way to Taverna Kalofego where we have meatballs, small fish, tzatziki and wine which just about finishes us off!


Back at Hippocampus I realise that I’ve got a bit sun burnt – and that’s with Factor 50! I’ll blame it on the wind. We spend the rest of the afternoon sitting on the balcony watching the ferries come and go. Later we go to Milos windmill bar for raki and ouzo and that made us feel a bit better!

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  1. For some reason, I got an email indicating that this is a new post. Was surprised to see it’s from 2015 but enjoyed reading it. Looks like the Oxi vote didn’t matter in the end after all as Tsipras decided to ignore the will of the people. So much for democracy. Thanks for this post. You’re a real champ for walking this distance in the sun! I didn’t used to mind windy days on the beach when I was younger (would just lie belly down on the sand with my walkman in my ears (remember walkman?) and look out into the sea.

    1. Ah Yes – I’m sorry it’s a bit confusing. There are so many trips that I started writing up and then never finished so bit by bit I’m trying to get them all tied up – even it it is 6 years after the event! At least doing it this way keeps them all in order of the trip 🙂

      Of course I remember Walkmans! I’m of the age! 🙂 Walking on Koufonissi was quite easy because it is relatively flat. It’s the hills I struggle with – I’m so unfit nowadays but will walk as much as possible when away. It’s a shame I’m not as inspired to do it when I’m at home! 🙂

      Do you have any other trips to Greece planned?

  2. Sounds lovely, bet it’s changed a lot when I visit in June. I’ll enjoy the walking however busy it is I suppose, but worried it might be very expensive and boutiquey like Anti Paris was ?
    I am determined to follow in your footsteps… 😂👍

    1. Hey Carol. Bearing in mind it was a few years since I visited Koufonissi, I found it boutiquey in the pretty sense – not the prices sky high in the Mykonos sense if you know what I mean. We had just been on Iraklia and Schinoussa which weren’t like that at all so it’s more of a reference to the comparison of these Small Cycladic islands. Koufonissi is great for walking on because of its flatness (compared to the hike up to our hotel in Iraklia but worth it for the views!). Definitely worth a visit. So glad that my visits to Anti Paros over the years were before it became ’boutiquified’ and prices went up accordingly. Such a shame to see the islands becoming overly touristic isn’t it.

Let me know what you think. ❤

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