Nea Kios is an eight-kilometre taxi ride from Nafplio sitting at the tip of the Argolic Gulf. But with any place beginning with Nea, there is always a back story. This one leads to a small museum that few people know exists, a square full of quiet symbolism, and a story about what happens when an entire community is forced to start again somewhere new.
There is something reassuring about a KTEL Argolida timetable. Clear, very specific, and somehow always full of confidence. The bus from Kranidi would connect at Epidaurus, deliver me to Nafplio by 13.26, and say nothing whatsoever about the forty-two gold steps waiting at the other end. This is Nafplio approached slowly, by bus, on foot, and along a railway line that no longer runs.
A continuous 8.5-week journey from Istanbul to Athens by ferry and public transport, crossing the Aegean via Marmara Adası, Çanakkale, Troy, Bozcaada, Gökçeada, Lesvos, Spetses, Ermioni and Nafplio. Every connection is real. No car required.
What a day this has been. What a trip this has been! My stay here in Athens is almost at an end and tomorrow I head back home. The hike on Mount Hymmetus, has left me with quite an appetite and right now my mind is on food. This evening I head back into the…
I’m sure you know that feeling of leaving a place that you love so much. That sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach, tinged with a dose of melancholia. Strangely though, I don’t feel that today. Although I’m saying farewell to Naflpio, one of my most beloved places, I know that it’s more of…
Sadly my time in Nafplio is coming to an end. Where on earth did the time go! I will be spending my last day squeezing out as much of this beautiful town as I can and it starts in the old town. Whilst here I want to check out the location of one of the…
Today I’m going to visit Mycenae. In addition to owning and running Polyxenia hotel, my host Maria and her sister have a car rental company a few doors down. For a reasonable price, Maria will take me to Mycenae and back. Firstly we’re off to the launderette. The problem with staying in hotels is that…
Yesterday the weather changed dramatically. A day earlier you could have been forgiven for thinking that summer had arrived. Yesterday started quite bright but by lunchtime, a bolt of lightning and a clap of thunder was followed by torrential rain that turned the narrow alleyways into streams. At some point in the afternoon the precipitation…
I was asked recently how my lifestyle enables me to do the 2 month trips that I’ve been lucky enough to do in recent years. There is no short answer to that but I’ve tried to put it as succinctly as I can. Nafplio did play a part in how I made a big career…
Breakfast at Polyxenia is served by Maria who is sister to Alexandra who checked me into the hotel yesterday. A set breakfast is brought to me at a table in the small dining area. There is the option to also sit outside. Yoghurt with honey, two slices of cake, freshly squeezed orange juice, tea, bread…
Last night there had been more snowfall. Not that I could see it on the streets of Kalavryta town but the evidence was on a number of cars in the street. They must have overnighted higher up in the mountains. I have a couple of hours to kill after breakfast and checking out, so I…
We meet Magnus and breakfast again. We confirm plans to meet at the bus station the follow day to catch the bus to Galatas. Today we are visiting Epidaurus by bus. The Peloponnese really does have an excellent bus service and I hope that my series of posts demonstrates that you don’t need to hire…
