Serifos – Exploring Livadakia and the Chora

We started the day with an amazing breakfast.  Matoula was already downstairs in the small kitchen off the courtyard when we came down at 9.00am.  She brought us a generous spread of boiled eggs, bread with jam and honey, cheese, ham and a semolina type desert with sultanas and sprinkled with cinnamon – I think it was halva. An amazing feast to start the day!  This truly makes up for the smelly bathroom and mosquitoes!

As always I’m always naturally drawn to the water so we go to explore the beach which is short walk from the Serifos Palace past houses with poppy filled gardens.  Livadakia beach is delightful – completely deserted at the moment.  A small curved beach lined with tamarisk trees.

After a stroll along the beach we head up over the hill towards the port.  We pleased to see a bus service running which means we can see more of the island.  Up above the port, the white houses and churches of the Chora gleam in the sunshine.

I had read that it is about an hours walk to the chora from the port.  It’s hard to gauge looking up at it from below but for our first trip up their we decide to catch the bus.  The Chora is divided in two parts which I’ll describe as a higher Chora and a lower Chora though on this first trip up there didn’t discover the lower Chora.  Up in the higher Chora towards the Kastro is a pretty little square and lots of attractive alleyways.
In the guides that I had read about Serifos, it described the Chora as one of the prettiest in the Cyclades.  It is attractive for sure, but in a less ’boutique’ way than Chora’s such as the neighbouring island of Folegandros.
It is very windy today – the man from the port cafe on Kythnos was right – the wind is definitely picking up!  Vertigo (of maybe it’s acrophobia) get’s the better of me on most occasions  The wind up in the Chora isn’t encouraging me to walk up to the Kastro _ I’m not sure I could have made it anyway with the sheer drops either side.  Peter goes and I walk around the streets surrounding the square.

We stay for a cup of tea at Kafeneio Tou Stratou in the square with a view of the Town Hall and church.

The walk back down to the port is 2km – the bus is 4.5km.  The path is very good and it’s a really enjoyable walk.

Before we go back to the Serifos Palace we take another walk along the beach.  We pass a Alexandros – Vassilia rooms and apartments which also has a little taverna right on the beach.  There isn’t anyone in the taverna but we go in and ask if it will be open later.  Vassilia is a lovely welcoming lady and told us it would be open though at this time of year it isn’t a full menu.  What they have available is Greek salad, tzaziki, local sausage and pork chops.  Perfect – we’ll be back later!

The wind is really picking up.  We take the opportunity to wash clothes and get them out on the line.  I hope it will all be there when we get back.

The meal at Alexandros – Vassilia is great.  The hospitality is wonderful and good basic Greek food can’t be beaten especially when washed down with the local wine.
We are joined by a very sad looking local dog.  We had seen her on the beach earlier.  She has a tick on her skin and an infection in her eye – she looks in a bit of a state but she enjoys some leftover pork chop.

The wind has picked up even more this evening.  I wish we’d brought the washing in!

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