A Flying Visit to Zitsa

Zitsa is just short of 30km northwest of Ioannina. For those like me who prefer to explore by public transport, it’s an easy trip from the KTEL Intercity bus station at a cost of 1.70€ per person per way. The bus runs 4 times a day.

Zitsa is a traditional village known for its wine production and this is apparent as soon as I began walking around the village. Just off the main square is a large wine pavilion and wine barrels are displayed in many forms including a stone barrel in the water fountain at the bus stop. The references to Lord Byron don’t escape my attention either. In 1809 Byron was travelling with his companion John Cam Hobhouse from Ioannina to Tepeleni, Albania when they were caught in a violent storm. They sought refuge in the Monastery of Profitis Ilias above the village where they stayed for 2 days. The Abbott offered them the very best of hospitality and it was here where Byron discovered the marvels of the local wine. He was so taken with Zitsa and its charms that he penned the poem Child Harald’s Pilgrimage which can be found engraved on a stone next to his statue in the village square.

“Monastic Zitza! from thy shady brow,
Thou small, but favour’d spot of holy ground!
Where’er we gaze, around, above, below,
What rainbow tints, what magic charms are found!
Rock, river, forest, mountain, all abound,
And bluest skies that harmonize the whole:
Beneath, the distant torrent’s rushing sound                
Tells where the volumed cataract doth roll
Between those hanging rocks, that shock yet please the soul.”

George Gordon Noel Byron

Sitting at the heart of the village and serving the village’s 350 inhabitants is the Bakery of the Village. It implores me to visit because it’s ‘Awesome’ giving an indication that somewhere there is an American influence. Master baker Kostas and his American wife Anna run the bakery which has been in Kosta’s family for several generations. But as the signs outside alludes to, this is no ordinary bakery. In addition to providing a wide range of bakery products for the local inhabitants and visitors, they also run baking classes and week-long culinary retreats. AND – that’s not all. They have also set up a community library and they host visitors/volunteers who wish to come and work with them on different projects. Whilst I was there, I was able to sample the semi-sparkling wine that the village is famous for! I also left with several products that left me wondering if my luggage allowance would be tipped over the edge!

Unfortunately, I’d arrived in Zitsa too late in the day to visit the Engraving Gallery. It has 350 examples of 19th century printworks created by lithography, lino cutting, copperplating, wood carved printing and silk screen printing. The works were donated by son of Zitsa and renowned artist Kosta Malamos.

I spent the rest of the afternoon walking the cobbled streets of the village. A brief visit but a worthwhile one nonetheless.