A Visit to Metsovo

Before arriving in Ioannina I’d originally thought about spending several days in Metsovo. Unfortunately, the bus service from Igoumenitsa was limited to just one bus a week. On my explorations around Ioannina town, I came across a travel agency called Kassaros Travel which runs a service to Metsovo every Sunday. It’s an unguided tour and costs a mere 10€ per person.

At 0930 on Sunday morning, the minibus arrived at the designated meeting point, outside the government building at Pirrou Square. It was easy to find – the building is huge and identified by its red window shutters and the statues of Ioannis Kolettis Statue and Eleftherios Venizelos at the front. After being checked off against a list on the driver’s phone we headed out of the city following the Egnatia Road. 1 hour and 30 minutes later we arrived in Metsovo. We have 5 more than ample hours to explore.

Set below the peaks of the Pindus mountains at an elevation of 1160 metres, Metsovo established itself as a strategic trading location due to its position along the Zygos Pass. The origins of the town’s name are unclear. One school of thought says the name was derived from the Slavic words ‘mets’ and ‘ovo’ meaning bear village. Another school of thought is that it is derived from the Greek word ‘mesovouni’ meaning ‘in the middle of mountains’. The town was largely bilingual, speaking both Greek and Aromanian Vlach though the latter is nowadays used less.

Metsovo was under Ottoman rule from 1430 – 1912 where it became an important part of the empire’s economic, military and administrative operations. In 1659, town residents were granted special tax and political privileges for guarding the mountain pass. Educational establishments were developed in the town and by the early 18th century, Metsovo was established as traders of wool, silver, woven products and leather. Trading centres were set up in cities across Europe and beyond. These opportunities created much wealth for several of Metsovo’s sons such as Nikolaos Stournaras, Michael Totsitsas and Georgios Averoff, each with their own interesting stories.

In between the two world wars, Metsovo saw a decline in its fortunes and in 1910, a typhoid epidemic decimated the population of of the town. In 1937, the Cultural Association of Metsovo was founded with Gregoris Tsanakas as its president and Evangelos Averoff Totsitsas as the vice president. The Association called upon the diaspora of Metsovo to give financial aid to the town. In 1947 the Baron Michael Totsitsas Foundation was founded and it played a key role in Metsovo’s economic growth and revival.

To discover more, my first port of call is the Metsovo Folk Art Museum housed in the former home of the Totsitsas family. The mansion house was built in 1661 and after renovations and financial contributions from Baron Michael Totsitsas, the museum opened in 1955.

The museum is by guided tour only and as the only English-speaking visitor here I have the guide to myself. She advised me that there is a no-photo policy which is disappointing but of course, I comply. The Greek-speaking party several minutes ahead of me seemed to be snapping away with impunity!

The museum is beautifully curated and it’s worthwhile visiting, even just to see how the ‘other half’ lived! The Metsovo Folk Art Museum is open daily except Thursdays and the entrance fee is 3€ per person.

Another interesting place to visit is the Averoff Gallery of Modern Art located just off the main square. As its name implies, it was established by one of the noted benefactors Evangelos Averoff Totsitsas. The museum was built with the specific purpose of housing the personal art collection belonging to its benefactor. The vast collection of works by Greek artists of the 19th and 20th centuries can be found over three floors which have disabled access. As well as the permanent exhibitions the gallery hosts temporary and special interest exhibitions. Currently, showing is a collection of artwork by renowned artist Peter Blake, part of an exhibition called Creative Encounters 2024.

Check the website for opening times. Entry is 5€ per person

Located on the edge of the village about a 15-minute walk from the square is the Katogi Averoff Winery which I don’t make it to on this visit but I believe it is worth making the stop. The importance of the wine industry in Metsovo can be seen at the barrel makers or ‘βαρελοποιός’ in the town. Also, check out the many cheese shops selling the smoked Metsovone cheese – it’s delicious!

The town of Metsovo is fully geared up for tourism. If you’re lucky you’ll catch a glimpse of ladies wearing their traditional costumes, especially on a Sunday. It is also hard to miss the many references to bears and wolves but no real ones in sight today!

The stone buildings with their wooden balconies have just a touch of the Tyroleans about them. It’s as if an Alpine village has been dropped in the middle of Epirus. Of course, there is plenty of typical Balkan architecture to admire too. Every so often I get a whiff of woodsmoke on the air, an aroma that I’ve always found very evocative and one that transports me to a myriad of places from times past.

Located in the heart of the village is the 16th-century Church of Agia Paraskevi set in spacious grounds with towering plane trees. At the entrance is the striking statue entitled Aromachos Metsovites created by Ioannina-born and award-winning sculptor Kyriakos Rokos. This enigmatic bronze statue of an elderly man sitting on the bench at the entrance to the church has incredible detailing on it that deserves time to appreciate. The statue was unveiled just a year earlier in October 2023

Just off the main square, a set of wide stone steps flanked by a pair of statues of a shepherd and woodcutter leads to a small grassy park. Here is a statue of Evangelos Averoff Totsitsas standing within touching distance of his art gallery.

Later that afternoon I decided to eat at one of the tavernas just off the main square. I was ‘captured’ by a man from Restaurant Grill Metsovo Hidden Nest. It was a nice-looking place with the traditional feel that I like so rather than trawl the streets looking for somewhere else, I relented. I took a seat at a chequered clothed table and watched the spit-roasted lamb and kokoretsi turn on the large barbecue.

I soon realised that the emphasis at this place wasn’t on customer service. The man was still trying to coax passersby into the taverna and after 45 minutes I made to leave. Just as I did the waitress arrived to take my order so I decided to stay. Anyway, it isn’t a place that I’d choose to eat at again. Although the lamb was passable, it’s one of those tourist places that focus on numbers rather than the quality of the food and service.

I spent the rest of this beautiful autumn day wandering the cobbled streets and enjoying the lively atmosphere of this mountain town. Every so often I’d catch sight of an interesting vista giving views across the fir-clad landscape. It’s most definitely worth giving a few hours if you are in the area.