Adio Agios Stefanos. Final Reflections

When I arrived at Agios Stefanos I wasn’t sure what to expect. A small tourist resort for sure, beautiful views yes. A lovely beach – definitely. I had chosen this little corner of Corfu, to use as a jumping-off point to visit the Diapontians. Thanks to Zeus and his tantrums, those trips didn’t happen but what I discovered here was something that turned out to be so much better. Agios Stefanos wasn’t just a place to get to somewhere else, it became a place to rest and relax and one that I quickly formed an affection for.

With an irregular bus service and the unwillingness – nay cowardice to rent a car, places to visit outside of the village were limited. The walk to Arillas was fantastic and about as energetic as it got. A bus trip to Sidari to visit the Canal D’Amour was interesting but TBH, I couldn’t wait to get back to Agi Stef. It almost became a sanctuary, a place to shake off the stress and strains of work and to synchronise myself with the slower pace of Greek life.

Apart from the walks, the trip to Sidari and the organised excursion to Kassiope, my time was spent weather-watching. Not sitting with my arms folded complaining about it but being truly fascinated by the ever-changing weather fronts. We were presented with the full gamut from rain to shine and from thunder to lightning. But no snow! The skies were spectacular and I never knew what to expect from one hour to the next. I rather smugly came prepared with a waterproof coat knowing that weather in the Ionians in Autumn can be unpredictable.

People-watching is also an excellent pastime to do here. I couldn’t help noticing that cat (and dog) fussing and feeding was ‘a thing’. Wherever I went I’d see people going out of their way to feed the cats and dogs in the street and I must say that the street animals are some of the healthiest I’ve seen whilst travelling around Greece.

The beach was a great location to observe the changing weather fronts which always seemed to come in over the Diapontian Islands. It was a good place to get some steps in as the sand was always wet and easy to walk on. It’s not like the powdery fine stuff that sucks your feet in making it feel like you’re going nowhere fast. It was easy to access the beach from the little path leading from Sun Sea View. I’d walk the length from the South to the North end of the beach past the clay cliffs. This of course is the part of the beach used by naturists. I really wanted to photograph more of the clay cliffs but kept my phone firmly in my pocket until I reached the very end of the beach where it was more deserted!

As I prepared to leave Agios Stefanos, I wanted to say thank you. Firstly to my hosts at Sun Sea View. I’ve loved it there and it has been the perfect location for my stay. I didn’t get to use the pool but I’m not a laying-by-the-pool kind of person, but it was more than I could have expected for my stay. Thank you to San Stefano Travel for their patience with my many questions and of course for their excellent help and advice and lovely excursion to Kalliope. Finally thank you to everyone at Spiros Maria Taverna where I ate almost exclusively. The home-cooked traditional Greek food was excellent and the hospitality was second to none. I was made to feel very welcome and it felt very easy and comfortable going there. I didn’t dip my toe in the tribute nights, the karaoke, the bingo and what else was on offer but it wasn’t obligatory. One of the great things about Agios Stefanos is that it has everything that you’d expect in a small tourist resort but it is low key and for those like me who just like to sit and be, it’s perfect for that too.

On my last evening in Agios Stefanos, Zeus finally stopped having his little tantrums, sending a bolt of lightning here and a little shower there. This evening he’s looked favourably on Corfu and sent down some real rain. Rain like we are used to seeing regularly in the North of England. Rain that drenches you to the core. Rain that turns the streets into rivers. It was absorbed into the land instantaneously like ink into blotting paper. Trees that had begun to show the tiniest bit of wilt have now perked up considerably and looked healthy and radiant again. I took one last look from the balcony before going to sleep. The gibbous moon that has been here since my arrival has almost reached its peak. Another night or so and we’ll have a full moon. The lights on Mathraki and Othonoi twinkle in the distance with the tiniest slither of a sunset peeking out between the clouds. I didn’t make it to the Diapontians this time but I will definitely make it there another time.

During the night Zeus did send a few lightning bolts and rolls of thunder. He’s such an attention seeker, always keen to make his presence felt. By morning, the sky was shrouded in a continuous, monotone, pale grey cloud. This is the stuff that brings the heavy and relentless rainfall that I know from home. I’m happy for Corfu. It needs it.

I finished packing and donned the waterproof coat which I’d bought especially for this trip. Now I get my first chance to wear it! After checking out I make my way to the bus stop. Of course, after yesterday’s bus experience to Sidari, I head to the main bus stop at the end of the street rather than the one by Aspa Supermarket. I arrive there early even though I know the bus will be late again. The bus shelter gradually filled up with people and some even had to seek refuge under the canopy of the shop across the road. Yes, I think that I’d head to Corfu Town on a rainy day too.

As expected the bus is around 45 minutes late and surprisingly today it does actually stop at the bus stop instead of calling us to the T junction to board. I don’t understand what determines which route out of the village the bus will take but that’s the same for the Greek bus service wherever you are – it likes to keep a little bit of mystique all to itself!

I’m now on my way to Gouvia, chosen because of its close proximity to Corfu Town (but where the accommodation is cheaper) and for access to a wide range of tours. TBH I’m not a big fan of tours. I hate being herded around and having to stick to a rigid timetable but on this particular trip it’s a much easier option. I see it as an opportunity to get a flavour of a place and if I like it, I will come back another time under my own steam.

The bus dropped me outside the large Diellas Supermarket situated on a busy carriageway. I walked to the pedestrian crossing and waited for the green man to signal that it was ‘safe’ to cross. I never completely trust drivers in Greece. They are a different type of driver to what we see in the UK and global road safety statistics show that! Crossing to the central reservation was OK. To make the last bit of the crossing the green man flashed intermittently. This I took to mean, cross if you think you can make it before a car knocks you down. Anyway – I made it in one piece.

The next road off the carriageway led directly into the village. I’m required to check in at the Iliada Beach Hotel as Hotel Omirico doesn’t have its own reception. The Iliada Beach Hotel is lovely and as the name implies is set on Gouvia Beach. ‘Hotel’ Omirico is a set of studios set at the back of the Iliada Beach Hotel. It’s basic accommodation but is clean and more importantly it has a balcony with a hanger for drying washing – one of my few ‘must haves’ when travelling. However, the studios are tightly squeezed in between other buildings so how much sun and wind the balcony gets is anyone’s guess. It will do and it’s in a great location.

One thing that it lacked was a kettle. I like a cup of Rooibos tea whilst travelling and I bring my own teabags – the only food/drink source I bring from home. I hopped over to Diellas Supermarket knowing that as a large supermarket it may sell electrical items which it did. I purchased an automatic kettle and a nice teacup for 23€. This is far less than what I’d spend on cups of tea in a cafe – and not that any of them would have Rooibos tea anyway!

OK Gouvia. Let’s see what you’ve got to offer!