Arrival on Kefalonia – Exploring Argostoli
It was a mad rush to get ready for this trip, which I suspect resulted in me over-packing (what’s new!). When in doubt, just chuck it in! I’m not a last-minute person, and by the time we set off for the airport, I was wound like a tightly coiled spring.
We flew from Manchester to Kefalonia with TUI. It’s been many years since I’ve flown with this airline. It was a pleasant enough but I was struck by the number of warning notices the cabin crew gave about bad behaviour. What on earth has been happening on TUI flights to warrant these stern remonstrations?
To pass the time, we immersed ourselves in the topical film Conclave. Ralph Fiennes was excellent in his role as Dean Lawrence tasked with overseeing the election of the new pope whilst wrestling with his own personal torments. It distracted us from the fractious children and giddy pensioners sitting in close proximity. A gin and tonic helped too.
An airport transfer was part of our accommodation package, and after collecting our luggage, our driver was waiting for us in the arrivals hall holding a sign with our name. All very straightforward. Our host Mado was very communicative and asked us to Whatsapp her once we were on our way. By the time we arrived some 25 minutes later, she was waiting for us at the apartment.
We are staying at Portogal Apartment set just behind the waterfront in Argostoli. It’s a large two-bedroomed apartment with a spacious balcony overlooking a residential area and the surrounding mountains. Despite being so close to the centre, it’s very quiet. The apartment is newly refurbished with a super power shower and a comfortable bed. The patio doors have electronic shutters and the sockets have USB charging points – all very modern. It has everything we need, with the bonus of a washing machine. Mado told us that she lived upstairs and that we should not hesitate to ask for anything.
Kefalonia is a large island – the largest of the Ionians and the 5th largest island in Greece. Narrowing down where to stay took a bit of research. Argostoli, although not blessed with many beaches on its doorstep, does have the bus station which is the central hub for all services. This would enable us to get around if we so choose.
We were eager to get out and explore, so we dumped our bags and headed out to the waterfront. Just a 5-minute walk away is the De Bosset Bridge, also known locally as Pontes. The 750 m structure cuts through the Koutavos Lagoon and connects Argostoli with Drapanos. The lagoon is 4 km in length and no deeper than 3 meters. What was once a swamp is now a thriving wetland full of biodiversity and is a breeding ground for loggerhead Turtles and a resting place for migratory birds such as pelicans.
Sitting at the near corner of the lagoon is a small leisure area called Turtle Park where you can hire a pedalo to take in the sights.
The idea of the bridge was conceived by the Swiss engineer Charles Philippe De Bosset in 1813 whilst he was employed by the British Army. The construction was originally made from wood but was later reconstructed using the local limestone.
We crossed the bridge just in time to watch the sun set behind the monument, which recognises De Bosset’s contribution to engineering. He was also appointed governor of Kefalonia, where he served between 1810-1814.
The promenade along the waterfront of Argostoli is smattered with fish tavernas. Several of them have a very limited menu because they are in the process of gearing up for the season. However, we found a lovely little Taverna called Momento a minute or two from the entrance to the bridge, where we dined on the water’s edge. Scordalia, Beef Stifado and Chicken Tigani accompanied by ouzo, were just what we needed!
After a good night’s sleep, we made a plan for the day. I hope that this trip will help get me back into shape, as I’d fallen out of my routine of getting my daily 8,000 steps in.
There are several established walking routes in and around Argostoli and our first port of call today was a walk to the Argostoli Sinkholes and the Lighthouse of Agios Theodoros. It was just 3.7 km each way and all on the flat. Before we set off, we called in at the bus station to see where the service would take us. It seemed that although the timetable has just been updated, it is still running a limited pre-season service. Because we only have six nights on Kefalonia (5 in Argostoli and 1 in Sami) we realised that we could cover more ground on a guided tour and would look for travel agents along the way.
The bus timetable seems to be kept up to date and fairly accurate at the time of writing. The map below, on the bus company’s website I found quite useful in terms of seeing how you can (or can’t) get around.
The promenade of Argostoli was a hive of activity as the fisherman returned to the harbour with their morning catch. As the fishermen sorted and gutted the fish, the entrails were thrown overboard, creating an all-you-can-eat buffet for the loggerhead turtles.
As we made our way to the sinkholes, we called in at a couple of travel agencies to inquire about an island tour. The first one could only offer us a private tour because they didn’t have the numbers to make up a group tour. It would have covered more ground, but it was expensive, so we put this one in reserve for now. The second one could offer a group tour, though it didn’t include Assos, but was a more reasonable price. We decided to mull it over. At least we have a couple of irons in the fire.
There are a couple of interesting statues along the promenade, including one of poet and sailor Nikos Kavadias looking thoughtfully across the bay.
https://www.greeknewsagenda.gr/poem-of-the-month-the-southern-cross-by-nikos-kavadias/
As we left the main drag of Argostoli, we found ourselves walking through the shade of a small pinewood skirting the edge of the water. Soon after, we came to the tip of the Peninsula and those very sinkholes we had set out to find.
The sinkholes are a unique geological phenomenon consisting of an underground karstic system that links the promontory of Argostoli with Sami on the eastern side of the island. This was proven by tipping 160kg of pigment into the sinkholes and after 15 days, the pigment appeared in Lake Melissani close to Sami. In 1835, a British engineer discovered that the speed of the water entering the sinkholes was enough to power several waterwheels. In 1835, the waterwheels were constructed and created enough energy to run a power station and an ice factory. The devastating earthquake of 1853 destroyed all but one of the wheels.
On the way to Agios Theodore Lighthouse, we passed the narrow strip of beach of Fanari. Argostoli seems to lack decent beaches, with the best of the island sitting at least a bus ride away, but we will think about that another day. Today is all about exploration.
Agiod Theodoros Lighthouse, also known as Fanari Lighthouse, was conceived by the English governor of the island at the time and came into operation in 1828. Again, it was one of the victims of the earthquake, but it was rebuilt in the same style some years later. It serves to protect ships from the rocky outcrops that surround the Argostoli promontory.
During our walk, we could see the small car ferries shuttling between Argostoli and Lixouri regularly. Well, it seemed to be calling us, so this was our next destination. Back in the town, we headed to the small port. We didn’t have to wait long before a boat arrived. The tickets were 3€ per person per way, and it took about 30 minutes to cross. We spent a pleasant couple of hours here wandering the waterfront and the streets behind. TBH, there wasn’t a lot to see in Lixouri without travelling further by car, but we were glad to have visited.
By the time we arrived back in Argostoli we’d made the decision to go with the group tour with the second travel agent. They had closed for the afternoon but re-opened at 7 o’clock, giving us plenty of time to head back to the apartment to shower and change.
Later that evening, we walked to the travel agent to book the island tour. All sorted for Wednesday. At least we’ll be able to see some of the key sights of the island. Assos will have to wait for another time.
Back on the waterfront, we noticed that the taverna with the limited menu the night before had added some more things to its board. Stamna Taverna looked pretty with its red and white checked table cloths and backdrop of the De Bosset bridge. It was chosen purely on appearance, which we were to find was a bit of a mistake. It seems that the season hasn’t fully started here and the menu was still limited. We’d committed so decided to suck it up and make the most of the pretty setting. Peter had pork steak and I had the village sausage (I love a bit of Greek sausage!) washed down with a nice Mini Ouzo.
By the end of today, and after consulting with my smart watch and Samsung Health app we realised that we’d walked just short of 20 kilometres. This was a bit more than I had envisaged, and I just hope my bones hold out for tomorrow!
