Diapontia 3 – Arrival on Mathraki!

Two days of strong winds which had led to ferry cancellations, kept me on Othonoi longer than planned. My two days that became five had now become six, but thankfully so. We now have a bit of calm. Tonia said the sea in and around the Diapontia is like an iceberg. It’s not the waves on the top you need to worry about but the currents you can’t see underneath. Both the Evdokia and the little boat Vamos are contracted to connect Corfu with all three Diapontia. If they can’t sail for whatever reason, they will make it up and sail the next possible day. Tonia also said that the problem is with the harbour of Mathraki which has a very narrow channel. In bad weather, it’s difficult for the boats to navigate their way in safely. If the ships can’t sail into Mathraki, they won’t sail at all. I like that “All for one” attitude.

The journey is only 35 minutes from Othonoi to Mathraki though when we arrive that sneaky little Vamos had arrived before us. The harbour only has room for one boat at a time so we bob and bounce out at sea until the Vamos clears the channel.

The car deck was filled with boxes and bags. Several trays of Othonoi free-range eggs stacked high are making their way to Corfu. The delivery of goods isn’t just a one-way affair. The back of the ferry slowly opens to reveal the third and final Diapontia of the trip. I honestly have no idea what to expect. I’d found Nissaki Mathraki on B.com and had only booked it once I’d arrived on Othonoi. When the storm hit and the boats were cancelled, my hosts-to-be, Chris and Ksenia were very understanding and allowed me to move my stay up by a day. I must admit that when I looked at the website and saw images of bikini-clad babes lounging on a yacht and a couple of stylish women galavanting around on a golf cart, I did wonder if this place would be for me. I have simple tastes and am a very undemanding guest. Let’s see what this experience brings.

As I stopped to take a photograph of the Evdokia (who I have already formed an affection for), I heard “Mrs Banks!”. It was Chris my host who had come to meet me off the boat. I received a warm welcome and was invited to hop on board a golf cart. Chris loaded my luggage onto the back and we headed off up the hill along a steep, narrow concrete track. I had no idea where the property was and the further we climbed to the top of the island, the more I thought I should have brought hiking poles.

Once up through the deeply forested area of Cyprus trees, we arrived in a little clearing set amongst an olive grove. Chris asked me if I’d had breakfast, which I hadn’t. I never eat before sailing. I like to keep the contents of my stomach stable so to speak! It’s nothing to do with seasickness as I don’t suffer from it but well – ships toilets…………

“Great,” he said and ushered me to a table set up on a large wooden deck. Cafe Al Fresco offers breakfast and brunch options for their guests and also for day visitors. I’m introduced to Ksenia, Chris’s wife and business partner and Oceane and Anna, the two seasonal members of staff from France and Hungary respectively.

First to arrive at the table is Ksenia’s homemade bread. There are two types – banana bread and a rich doughy fruit bread fresh from the oven served with her homemade fig jam. This alone is very special. Chris told me that Ksenia began to bake bread out of necessity as there isn’t a shop on the island let alone a bakery. Her first batch was such a success that Chris decided from then on he’d have this instead of birthday cake. Oh, and they have Earl Grey tea too – a bit of a rarity as on most islands the only tea on offer is green tea or yucky mountain tea. Sage belongs in a stuffing with onions and a roast chicken thank you.

I selected a breakfast of quesadilla filled with cheese, ham, eggs and peppers served with homemade salsa, seasoned and garnished with coriander. What a breakfast! Chris told me that although the island was remote and lacked even less facilities and infrastructure than the other two Diapontia, they believe that their guests should have all the creature comforts they want whilst on holiday. And for sure, the quality of everything so far is exceptional and everyone is very attentive.

Ksenia told me that the handful of tavernas on the island have now gone into winter mode. They are now only serving drinks and close at 1pm. I wasn’t to worry though because Ksenia would cook for me. I’m the only guest here at the moment but nothing was too much trouble.

Ksenia asked if I had any dietary requirements, which I don’t and with a simple nod, it seemed like she had a plan. After my struggles on Othonoi, this was a relief and card payment won’t be a problem either. If this brunch is anything to go by, I’m going to be in for a treat this evening!

Chris told me that I was going to be staying down at the beach house (Phew – no hiking poles required!). After arranging a time for the evening meal with Ksenia, Chris drove me back down through the forest to what was going to be my home for the next two nights.

My first impression was “Wow!” It is what it says on the tin – a house right on the beach! This is the belated birthday experience that I’d hoped for after things on Erikousa didn’t exactly go to plan. I think that I may have just landed in paradise!

The beach house has everything that I would need including the most comfortable bed of the trip so far. Once you’ve converted to memory foam, nothing else will ever compare! Oh and that view! Corfu over to the right, the Albanian mountains straight ahead and just out of shot Erikousa and Othonoi. I must say that Mathraki has a beautiful outward looking view! Although the Diapontia are described as remote, they feel very connected to Corfu and each other, even if only by sight.

Keen to get out and explore, I leave the chore of unpacking until later and take a stroll to Mathraki’s main port of Plakes. Just a stone’s throw from the beach house is a small no-name church which is likely a family chapel. Just before the port along the water’s edge is a rather ominous-looking wreck of a boat that in parts is hanging on by a hair’s breadth. I clamber down to inspect it further taking photographs of it from almost every angle including the hull now resembling a fish that has been picked to the bone.

Behind the port is the Dolphin Taverna, just one of a handful of tavernas and cafes on the island. It looks like a central meeting place for the island’s residents. The chatter is loud and the conversations are animated. I’d told Ksenia about the lady I’d met on the Evdokia when travelling to Erikousa. We said we’d see each other when I arrived on Mathraki. Ksenia said that I’d probably see her at the port because even if the locals aren’t expecting any deliveries off the boat, they like to come and watch what everyone else is getting. Such is the real-life drama played out here on every boat arrival day.

Just as I began to climb the road behind the Dolphin, I could see the Vamos about to make its final call into Mathraki before heading back to Agios Stefanos. I’d passed a couple with two small children walking along the beach by the wreck. It seems that they completely lost track of time and had only spotted the Vamos at the last minute. The husband ran ahead to keep the boat from leaving whilst his poor wife dragged the two children along by their hands. It took nearly ten minutes for her to reach the boat but they made it and off they went back to Corfu.

Since arriving in the Ionians I’ve become a bit of a weather watcher. It has been almost impossible to predict what it would be like within the next few hours let alone the next few days. Although the high winds have subsided and today is bright and sunny, more storms are afoot. Storm Cassandra to be exact and she has already left a trail of destruction in her wake. I decided to make the most of the sun and I spent the rest of the afternoon on a completely deserted beach, swimming and poking around in rock pools. I was in my element.

The beach in front of my little abode is made up of golden sand scattered periodically with larger boulders. There are low sand dunes formed by being on an exposed coastline and subject to the prevailing winds. Chris told me that turtles nest on the beach and that they had already hatched a month ago. However, I did see several holes in the sand which looked like the entrance to some nests. Maybe they were, maybe they weren’t.

Later that evening, right on the dot of 1900, Anna came to pick me up in a golf cart. These can be rented for a very reasonable price though after seeing some of the steep 2:1 inclines in the road up to Al Fresco, I’d rather leave that to those that are more confident. When considering whether to rent one I had visions of plummeting off the cliff edge. Why do we get so cowardly as we get older?

A table on the deck is already laid up for me. Ksenia had told me that when she first came to Mathraki, the local ladies loved to give her ‘advice’ on how to cook Greek dishes the ‘proper’ way. It was at that point that Ksenia decided that she wasn’t going to cook Greek food. She would cook food her way and tonight she is going to take me on a culinary journey to her home country of Poland.

I was presented with a meal of meatballs and spiced cabbage with boiled potatoes garnished with dill and what a combination of flavours. Now THIS is what I’m talking about! Ksenia has professional standard culinary skills and her ability to use a perfect blend of herbs and spices was impressive. I was feeling very spoilt!

After this fantastic meal, Ksenia drove me back down to the beach house and we arranged a pick up at 0930 the following morning for breakfast.

I climbed the steps up to the terrace brushing past the bright fuchsia pink 4 o’clock flower which was pumping out its floral scent into the evening air. Over to the right, I can see the bright lights of Agios Stefanos and also a row of lights on Erikousa. I tried to imagine the people that I’d met in those places and what they were doing at that very moment.

Rain is on its way. What form the weather will take, nobody knows except Zeus himself.