Storm Cassandra Arrives on Mathraki

During the night Storm Cassandra began to make her presence felt with downpours of torrential rain and gusts of wind blowing in across the sea. Despite the sound of the incoming storm, I had an amazing night’s sleep on a very comfortable memory foam mattress. During this trip, I’ve had mattress experiences ranging from good, to OK, to absolutely terrible. This mattress at Nisaki Mathraki is rated as excellent! These things are important as you reach a certain age!

When I threw open the curtains the sun had already begun to burn through the last of the storm clouds shooting ‘God rays’ towards the horizon line. It was a magnificent sight to be greeted with. It was hard to tell whether this was the tail end of the storm or whether Cassandra was taunting us and lulling us into a false sense of security.

At 0930, Anna arrived in a golf cart to take me up to Al Fresco for breakfast. Honestly, this is a personal service that I didn’t expect. A table on the deck is laid up ready for me and once seated, Oceane brings to the table Ksenia’s freshly baked banana and spiced fruit bread with her homemade fig jam and butter. This in itself is a treat not to be missed. Even writing this several weeks later I still dream of this bread! The jam was so delicious that I asked Ksenia how she made it. She told me that she cooks the figs in lemon juice and uses just enough sugar to preserve the fruit. The Greeks like to use equal amounts of sugar to fruit but she prefers a healthier option and it is just the right amount of ‘sweet’.

Their orchard is abundant with fruit including apples, pears, plums, nectarines, quince, blackberries, pomegranates, figs, figs and more figs! They are able to harvest throughout the year. Nothing goes to waste which is a real asset on an island that doesn’t even have a shop. Of course, they are reliant on supplies from Corfu, but wherever they can live off the land, they do.

Oceane presented me with their menu which has a wide choice to suit every taste. Everything has a modern twist with influences from the USA. I chose the Greek taco filled with eggs, tomatoes and feta cheese pimped up with chilli flakes. Chris had spent several decades in the States working at a high level in the restaurant and hospitality industry. It is also where he met Ksenia who also brings with her an impressive set of skills.

Chris’s family are from Mathraki and like many others in the Diapontia, he left to forge a career for himself in America. It was during Covid that together they hatched an idea to develop a hospitality business on the island. You can’t underestimate what they’ve achieved in such a short space of time. Not only have they developed and implemented their business idea, they’ve also refurbished various properties carrying out a lot of the construction work themselves.

The menu also lists some of the activities that they can provide for their guests. This includes golf cart and e-bike rental, SUP and kayak rental, Yoga classes, guided hikes and use of a crossfit gym. They also offer a range of experiences including snorkelling at Trahia Island and a boat ride and picnic to Aspro Ammos beach at Othonoi. I’d also noticed on the beach yesterday, that they have also offered a beach bar service. Chris had told me that just because Mathraki is a small and remote island with very little infrastructure, they want to ensure their guests have all the comforts they want for their stay. They are both a powerhouse of creativity and action!

After breakfast, I opted to walk back down to the beach house so that I could do a little exploring along the way. However, just as I set off it began to rain, only lightly at first but halfway down the heavens opened. Thankfully I’d brought my waterproof coat with me (don’t come to the Ionians in Autumn without one!). I was able to see a little along the way but my phone was getting so wet and became unresponsive. Time to head back to the beach house.

Back at the beach house, I took the opportunity to do a bit of writing and managed to publish another blog post. Several hours later the weather began to brighten up a bit. Surely that wasn’t Storm Cassandra in her entirety. There had been weather warnings about this for the last few days and so far it has been more of a damp squib than a storm. Anyway, as the old saying goes, make hay whilst the sun shines so I head out in the opposite direction to the port with the intention of reaching Paradise Hotel and Restaurant. Although I knew it wouldn’t be open I was curious to see why it was named so. It’s about 3km’s away along a narrow coastal path so it should have been an easy walk.

It started well. Every vista was like a landscape painting. The waves were rolling in at a rate of knots, smashing onto the shoreline with so much power it was invigorating. Further along, the path narrowed and became muddy. It was easily passable but just beyond this, the road had evidence of recent rock fall from the cliff above, loosened by the wind and the rain. There are times when you travel solo that you have to listen to that inner instinct. I’m hyper-sensitive to those alarm bells ringing in my head so I decided not to go any further.

It reminded me of a video call I’d had with my daughter a few days earlier. She asked me if I got bored whilst travelling alone. I told her that I absolutely didn’t and that I enjoyed the solitude and independence. She then asked me why I video-called her so often whilst I was travelling (hmmm, once a week is hardly ‘often’). The first part of my answer was to tell her that I love to share the amazing places with her and secondly to let her know that I was still alive! I told her there had been times during this trip when I could have easily been blown off a cliff edge. Nobody would know about it for days, maybe even weeks. The first sign would be the sight of vultures picking over the remaining bits of flesh on my bones!

Anyway, apart from the rock fall, the weather had once again taken a turn and the rain was back with a vengeance.

I spent the rest of the afternoon writing and wading through my photographs until it was time to get ready for dinner.

At 1930 on the dot, Anna was here to pick me up in the golf cart. I donned my waterproof coat and we head up through the pine forest to Al Fresco. A table has been set up outside under the canopy where it was dry. The warm and comforting lights around the olive grove made it feel very cosy and atmospheric.

I’m greeted by Ksenia who told me that tonight she was going to take me on a culinary journey to Hungary. Anna had prepared a delicious beef goulash for me with a side serving of yoghurt dip. Nothing could be better for this inclement weather!

I have to say how kind and attentive everyone has been as Nisaki Mathraki. As the only guest, I couldn’t be more spoilt. When I think back to how challenging it was at times to procure food on Othonoi, this experience at Nisaki Mathraki was a stark contrast.

I had originally planned to stay on Mathraki for two nights but I’ve had confirmation that due to the storm, the boat won’t sail tomorrow. I’m rather relieved because my time here has been all too short.

More on my amazing stay here soon! ❤️