Chasing Greek Carnival: 4 Weeks from Florina to Sochos by Bus and Train
This 4-week Northern Greece Carnival itinerary covers Florina, Edessa, Thessaloniki and Sochos by bus and train. Best time: February-March (Carnival season). Highlights: Sochos Clean Monday traditions, Edessa waterfalls, Naoussa Genitsaroi carnival, Loutra Pozar thermal spa. No car rental needed.
Greek Carnival is not just about parades and costumes—it’s a window into ancient rituals that have survived for centuries. While Patras hosts the famous grand spectacle, the villages of northern Greece preserve something far more raw and authentic. In Sochos, bell-wearers in goatskins perform Dionysian rites passed down through generations. In Naoussa, the Genitsaroi and Boulos carnival commemorates resistance against Ottoman rule. Edessa, too had local celebrations involving dance and song. These are not events staged for tourists—they’re living traditions.
This four-week journey through Macedonia was designed entirely around public transport—buses and trains connecting Thessaloniki to the surrounding towns and villages. It’s slow travel through a region that rarely makes it onto tourist itineraries, culminating in the extraordinary Clean Monday celebrations at Sochos. This is Greece beyond the beaches—a winter journey into history, community, and celebration.
What Makes This Itinerary Special
A Gateway to Authentic Carnival
Thessaloniki acts as the transport hub for this journey, with regular buses and trains connecting to Florina, Edessa, and the villages beyond. It’s the perfect base for exploring northern Greece’s lesser-known carnival traditions.
Ancient Rituals Still Alive
Sochos preserves one of Greece’s most authentic carnival traditions. The Koudounophoroi (bell-wearers) in goatskins with metre-tall ribbon-covered masks perform rituals invoking fertility and honouring ancestors—a far cry from commercial carnival celebrations.
Unexpected Natural Beauty
Edessa’s dramatic waterfalls, the thermal springs of Loutra Pozar at the foot of Mount Kaimaktsalan, and Florina’s neoclassical architecture along the Sakoulevas River offer landscapes completely different from the Greek islands.
Wine Country and Mountain Villages
Naoussa’s renowned vineyards produce some of Greece’s finest wines, while the surrounding mountain villages maintain traditional ways of life that feel untouched by time.
Thessaloniki as an Exploration Hub
The city offers world-class museums, Byzantine architecture, and excellent food, while serving as the jumping-off point for day trips and onward connections throughout the region.
Designed for Public Transport
Every connection works without a car—KTEL buses from Thessaloniki to Florina and Edessa, trains to Naoussa, and local connections to thermal spas and mountain villages.
A Circular Route
Beginning and ending with flights through Athens (no direct flights from UK to Thessaloniki out of season) creates a natural loop, with the journey flowing logically from west (Florina) through the centre (Edessa, Thessaloniki) to the carnival finale at Sochos.
The Route at a Glance
Route: Manchester → Athens → Thessaloniki → Florina → Edessa → Thessaloniki → Sochos → Athens → Manchester
Duration: Approximately 3 weeks, timed around the Greek Carnival season (February-March)
Transport: Flights to Athens, domestic flight to Thessaloniki, KTEL buses, trains, a little bit of taxi usage when required
Best Time: February-March during Carnival season. Key dates include Tsiknopempti (Smoky Thursday), the weekend before Clean Monday, and Clean Monday (Kathara Deftera) itself.
Who It’s For: Culture-seekers, photography enthusiasts, those fascinated by ancient traditions, travellers wanting to experience Greece beyond the beaches
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Destination-by-Destination Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Florina
Getting There: Flight from Manchester to Athens (Easyjet), domestic flight Athens to Thessaloniki, taxi to Thessaloniki Intercity Bus Station (approximately €38, 35 minutes), KTEL bus to Florina (€17, 2.5 hours via Veria).
Getting Around: Walkable town centre. Trains also available from Thessaloniki to Florina.
Days 1-5: Florina
Greece’s coldest town sits in the northwestern corner of Macedonia, close to the borders with Albania and North Macedonia. Neoclassical buildings line the banks of the Sakoulevas River, and the town has a quiet, authentic character that rewards those who slow down. This is the birthplace of film director Theo Angelopoulos, and his presence is felt throughout—from the historic Hotel Diethnes to the artistic spirit of the place.
Getting Around: Walkable. The main attractions are within easy reach on foot.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Lucato Apartments – budget apartment in the town centre, well-equipped and comfortable.
Don’t Miss: The neoclassical architecture along the Sakoulevas River, the Florina Cross on Agios Panteleimon hill, the Hellenic City Archaeological Site (4th century BC – 1st century AD, entry €2), Hotel Diethnes with its Angelopoulos connection.
Local Specialities: Florina peppers (the famous long red peppers), wines made from local Ximomavro grapes.
The Reality Check: This is Greece’s coldest town—dress accordingly! Temperatures during my February visit rarely rose above freezing. The town is quiet and authentic, not a tourist hotspot, which is precisely its charm.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus from Florina to Edessa (also local train option).
→ The Journey – Destination Florina
→ Florina Day 1 – Not How I Planned it in my Head
→ Florina Day 3 – Another Gentle Stroll Around Town
→ A Walk to the Hellenic City of Florina
Days 6-10: Edessa
The City of Waters exceeded every expectation. Edessa sits on the edge of a dramatic escarpment, with waterfalls cascading down into the fertile plains below. The old quarter of Varosi with its 19th-century Balkan architecture is atmospheric beyond words, especially at night. I extended my stay by an extra night just to experience the Carnival events—and I’m so glad I did.
Getting Around: Walkable town centre. Bus and train connections for day trips.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Central & Riverfront Room 1 – Wonderful host Maria couldn’t do enough. Central heating (luxury in February!), perfectly located, and Maria left bags of fruit, yoghurt and brioche. She even provided access to a washing machine.
Don’t Miss: Waterfalls Park and the Open Air Water Museum, the Waterfall Cave (€1 entry), Varosi old quarter (especially at night), Kiupri Stone Bridge (possibly Byzantine, 28m length), Church of Agios Vasilios viewpoint, Garden of Herbs, Human Sundial, Artist’s Workshops, High Rock viewpoint over Ancient Edessa.
Carnival Events: Dog Carnival (Saturday) – Greece’s only carnival for dogs at Waterfalls Park, Rebetiko Festival by the Small Waterfalls, Tsiknopempti (Smoky Thursday) celebrations with BBQs and dancing throughout town.
Day Trips from Edessa:
• Naoussa – Famous wine town, home of the extraordinary Genitsaroi and Boulos Carnival tradition. Train €1.60 each way, 30 minutes.
• Loutra Pozar – Thermal spa at the foothills of Mount Kaimaktsalan. Bus to Aridaia (€3.60), then taxi approximately €15.
The Reality Check: The old Hemp Mill was closed for refurbishment during my visit. The cave guardian sometimes takes days off—check before planning your visit. Temperatures remain cold, but the central heating at my accommodation was a blessing.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus from Edessa to Thessaloniki (1 hour 45 minutes).
🏩Book Central & Riverfront here
From Thessaloniki – Pozar and Edessa Day Trip
KTEL Imathia/Edessa Bus Service
Hellenic Train Schedules
→ Arrival at the Tower in the Water – Edessa
→ A Whistle Stop Tour of Edessa
→ A Visit to Loutra Pozar
→ A Visit to Naoussa – Home of the Genitsaroi and Boulos Carnival
→ Final Roundup of Edessa
Days 11-15: Thessaloniki
Greece’s second city serves as the transport hub for this journey and deserves time in its own right. Byzantine churches, Ottoman architecture, a vibrant waterfront, and some of the best food in Greece await. I used my time here to explore the Railway Museum and prepare for the final carnival destination.
Getting Around: Walkable city centre. Buses for further destinations. The intercity bus station connects to destinations throughout northern Greece.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Maroon Bottle Suites. I loved my stay here. A bit more upmarket than my usual budget accom but worth it for the decor, staff and location.
Don’t Miss: Thessaloniki Railway Museum (a wonderful collection of vintage steam trains), the White Tower, Ano Poli (Upper Town), the waterfront promenade, Byzantine churches.
The Reality Check: National strikes on February 28th commemorated the second anniversary of the Tempi rail disaster—plan around potential disruption. Taxi drivers from the airport can be opportunistic—show confidence and know your route.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus from Thessaloniki to Sochos for the Clean Monday carnival finale. Take the bus from Thessaloniki to Lagada and get the connecting bus to Sochos.
🏩Book Maroon Bottle Luxury Suites here
→ Leaving Edessa and on to Thessaloniki for Carnival!
→ In search of Trigona!
→ The Railway Museum of Thessaloniki
Days 16-20: Sochos – The Carnival Finale
This is why I came. Sochos, a mountain village northeast of Thessaloniki, preserves one of Greece’s most authentic carnival traditions. The Koudounophoroi (bell-wearers) dressed in goatskins with heavy bells and metre-tall ribbon-covered masks perform ancient Dionysian rituals. The Sunday parody weddings feature bearded brides on tractors, tsipouro flowing freely, and dancing in the streets. Clean Monday brings the grand finale with the bell-wearers’ procession and the dramatic shift from carnival madness to the quiet of Lent.
Getting Around: Walkable village. Events take place throughout the town centre and surrounding streets.
Where to Stay: Book ahead—accommodation is very limited. You may not find anything on Airbnb or booking.com – I had to put out a plea for help on a Sochos Facebook page. I struck lucky and found accommodation at Sochos Traditional Homes.
Carnival Events:
• Sunday: The Parody Weddings (Arapkas) – Bearded brides, tractor processions, traditional dancing, tsipouro in abundance
• Clean Monday: The Koudounophoroi procession – Bell-wearers in goatskins and ribbon-covered masks, traditional music with zournas and daouli drums
Don’t Miss: Sochos Folklore Museum, the Bride’s House (purpose-built for carnival traditions), Church of St George and the viewpoint over the square, the morning quiet after carnival when village life returns to normal.
The Reality Check: This is a local event for their own community—not staged for tourists. Events don’t follow strict timetables; you need to watch and wait and be ready to move. The craziness goes on late into the night. Light snow is possible on Clean Monday morning.
Onward Travel Connection: Return to Thessaloniki, by bus via Lagada.
→ Leaving Thessaloniki and My Final Carnival Destination – Sochos
→ Sochos Folklore Museum and More Carnival Capers
→ Sochos Carnival – the Parody Weddings
Days 21-23: Thessaloniki (Final Stay)
Back to Thessaloniki for a final stay. Just enough time to do a guided tour of Pella and Vergina and prepare for my return to Athens.
Where to Stay: I returned to the Maroon Bottle Luxury Suites because I enjoyed it so much. The breakfasts are fab!
Onward Travel Connection: Taxi to the airport and flight to Athens
🏩Book Maroon Bottle Luxury Suites here
Guided tour of Vergina and Pella
Days 24-28: Athens
Time in Athens before the flight home, with opportunities to explore beyond the usual tourist sites.
Getting Around: The Athens Metro is excellent and easy to use. Athens is walkable on foot.
Where to Stay: Attalos Hotel – My favourite place to stay in Athens. 5 minutes walk from Monastiraki and easy access to Athens’s key sites.
Day Trips from Athens: Salamina island, Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre (my favurite place to escape the craziness of the city!). My list of Athens ‘to do’s’ will require a separate post!
Onward Travel Connection: Flight from Athens to Manchester.
🏩Book Attalos Hotel here
→ A Visit to Salamina and the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre
→ Unexpected Athens Orientation Tour by Alternative Athens
Budget
Total Cost: £230.93 + €2,046.20
(28 Days, Solo Traveller – February-March 2025)
This includes flights, accommodation, and intercity transport. It does NOT include daily meals, local transport within cities, activities, day trips, or sundries.
What’s Included:
✈️ UK Flights: £230.93
• Manchester → Athens (Easyjet): £76.99
• Athens → Manchester (Easyjet): £55.94
• Luggage and pre-booked seats: £98.00
✈️ Domestic Flights: €208
• Athens → Thessaloniki (Aegean): €104
• Thessaloniki → Athens (Aegean): €104
🏨 Accommodation: €1,712 (26 nights)
• Florina: 5 nights (€345) – Lucato Apartment
• Edessa: 5 nights (€330) – Central & Riverfront Room 1
• Thessaloniki: 5 nights (€315) – The Maroon Bottle Suites
• Sochos: 5 nights (€350) – Sochos Traditional Homes
• Thessaloniki: 2 nights (€100) – Return stay
• Athens: 4 nights (€272) – Hotel Attalos
🚌 Bus Travel: €53.20
• Thessaloniki → Florina (via Veria): €16.20
• Florina → Edessa: €8.50
• Edessa → Thessaloniki: €8.50
• Thessaloniki → Sochos (Urban 83 + KTEL): €10.00
• Sochos → Thessaloniki: €10.00
🚕 Taxis & Metro: €73
• Athens Airport → Monastiraki (Metro): €8
• Thessaloniki hotel → Airport (Taxi): €25
• Athens hotel → Airport (Taxi): €40
What’s NOT Included:
• Daily meals and drinks (budget €20-35/day)
• Day trips (Naoussa, Loutra Pozar, Salamina)
• Local transport within cities
• Activities and museum entries
• Thessaloniki airport taxi on arrival (€38)
• Sundries
Budget Tips:
💡 Flights: Easyjet offers affordable routes to Athens from regional UK airports. Aegean domestic flights are pricier but save significant travel time versus buses
💡 Accommodation: Excellent value throughout—averaging €66/night for quality apartments and hotels across six different locations
💡 Buses: KTEL buses are incredibly affordable (€8-16 per journey) and connect all major towns in northern Greece reliably
💡 Sochos: Book accommodation well in advance for Carnival weekend—options are very limited in this small village
💡 Thessaloniki Taxis: Airport taxis cost around €38—know the route to avoid being taken the long way. The rule of thumb is approximately €1/km
💡 Athens Metro: The metro from Athens Airport to the city centre is excellent value at €8—much cheaper than a taxi
💡 Timing: Carnival dates change each year based on Orthodox Easter. Plan around Tsiknopempti (Smoky Thursday), the weekend before Clean Monday, and Clean Monday itself
The Bottom Line:
Four weeks exploring northern Greece during Carnival season for just over £230 plus €2,000. That’s extraordinary value for a trip that includes domestic flights, comfortable accommodation in six different locations, and access to some of Greece’s most authentic cultural traditions. The real expense here isn’t money—it’s time. And this itinerary proves that slow travel through mainland Greece is not only affordable but deeply rewarding.
Is This Trip Right for You?
This itinerary is perfect if you:
• Want to experience authentic Greek traditions beyond the tourist trail
• Are fascinated by ancient rituals and cultural celebrations
• Enjoy winter travel and don’t mind cold temperatures
• Love photography opportunities (the carnival costumes and Varosi architecture are extraordinary)
• Want to combine culture with natural beauty (waterfalls, thermal spas, mountains)
• Appreciate slow travel and genuine local hospitality
Think twice if you:
• Prefer beach holidays and warm weather
• Need events to run on strict schedules
• Don’t enjoy crowds and loud celebrations (carnival days are intense)
• Aren’t comfortable with cold weather (February temperatures in Florina can be well below freezing)
• Prefer luxury accommodation (options in smaller villages are basic)
Final Thoughts
Four weeks. Four destinations but with many visits to neighbouring towns and villages. One extraordinary carnival finale.
This journey took me to a Greece I’d never seen before—away from the islands and into the mountains, away from summer crowds and into winter traditions that have survived for centuries. In Florina, I walked through snow along a frozen river. In Edessa, I discovered a waterfall town that exceeded every expectation. In Sochos, I witnessed ancient rituals that felt both wild and sacred.
Greek Carnival isn’t just about costumes and parades. In the villages of northern Greece, it’s a living connection to Dionysian rites, to fertility rituals, to the thin line between chaos and order that our ancestors marked with fire and bells and dance. The Koudounophoroi in their goatskins aren’t performing for tourists—they’re honouring something far older.
Would I return? In a heartbeat. There are more carnivals to discover, more mountain villages to explore, more of this extraordinary region to understand. Greece beyond the beaches is a revelation—and Carnival season is the perfect time to find it.
