Marching On: An afternoon with the Evzones

After yesterday’s incident, I was left feeling a little beaten up – mentally that is. My initial instinct was to retreat into the hotel room for the next four days, but that was never really an option. The older I get, the more conscious I am of that big old clock counting down the days to the inevitable. It’s those momentary realisations that wake me in a cold sweat. I wasn’t going to waste my time wallowing in self-pity. Besides, today I’d arranged to meet my friend Ioannis to take a deep dive into the working life of the iconic Evzones.

My fascination with the Evzones is well documented. No trip to Athens is complete without a stroll to Syntagma to pay my respects. Over the years, I’ve observed countless changing of the guards and immersed myself in the ritual of the Grand Parade. I’ve even attempted to write about what I’d gleaned about these enigmatic figures from over the years. No matter how much I think I’ve learned about the Evzones, their lives are still shrouded in a veil of mystery. Who better to give me further insight than Ioannis! We’d arranged to meet at the Metropolitan Cathedral, so with my crossover bag and camera strapped down securely, I headed out.

I always bring a camera with me when I travel. Several years ago, I swapped my large DSLR camera for a smaller and lighter mirrorless one. Mobile phone technology has made such rapid advancements in recent years that I’d begun to use my phone almost exclusively. Although I prefer the control of a proper camera, it has become just one more thing to lug around. I’d almost decided not to bring it this time. Anyway, since the phone theft, I was glad I did.

As usual, I arrived much earlier than necessary, so I went to pay a visit to a favourite little sanctuary next door to the cathedral, the Holy Church of the Virgin Mary. It’s a pretty church with interesting detailing inside and out. There are a lot of tourists in Athens at the moment, and today, this little church feels more like Clapham Junction. Still, it’s a nice place to sit for a while and contemplate life.

I rendezvoused with Ioannis in the square in front of the cathedral as arranged. I met Ioannis last October when I booked a tour of the Zagori National Park with his company, Epirus Traveller. This was a fantastic trip further enhanced by Ioannis’s knowledge and passion for his home region. As much as I prefer to go ‘free-style’ during my travels, sometimes it pays to have an expert guide to give you knowledge that is sometimes hard to pick up by visiting a place alone. The interesting bits are often the personal anecdotes that you’ll never read about in a guidebook.

https://www.epirus-traveller.gr/en

The continuing protests taking place in Athens had scuppered part of what we had planned for today (I can’t say what or Ioannis would have to kill me!). Syntagma was going to go into lockdown. The gates to the National Gardens had already been shut, and later, the metro station at Syntagma would be closed. The protesters continue their demands for justice for the victims of the Tempi rail disaster and their families. Even after the large demonstration the previous week, sporadic demonstrations were still erupting with as much anger and passion as ever.

Ioannis told me that we would still be able to get a bit of Evzones action, so we headed down Ermou towards Syntagma and along Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias – I call it the Embassy Road. We turned right past the army barracks and to the front of the Presidential Palace. Of course, it isn’t just the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier that has Evzones protection. Today, the Evzones are wearing their winter uniforms or Doulamas – more of that later.

Some of the Evzones are in the ceremonial uniform too. This was a really good opportunity to see the two uniforms up close and unhindered by hordes of tourists.

The time approached for the changing of the guard in Syntagma. We headed back towards the square ahead of the Evzones’ exit from the barracks. Today I’ve struck it lucky because there is another uniform on show. The uniform of the Dodecanese Islands is being worn today to commemorate a very special occasion.

The Dodecanese Islands have had a chequered past, even within recent history. After being under Ottoman occupation for 400 years, the islands were seized by Italy in 1912. During WWII, the Germans took control, but in 1947, the Treaty of Paris determined that the Dodecanese would become part of Greece. On March 7th, 1948, the Dodecanese Islands were incorporated into the modern Greek state. Today is the commemoration of that day.

On first inspection, the uniform of the Dodecansese Islands appears to be simple, but in fact, there was an immense amount of fine detailing, especially on the vest. The front was made from black velvet with a wrap-over panel fastened with velvet buttons. You have to look closely to see the incredible amount of embroidery and hand sewn detailing. The back panel is also constructed in velvet but in a deep burgundy colour, embellished with an intricate embroidered panel, all I daresay, imbued with symbolism.

To see the Evzones together wearing the Doulamas, the ceremonial costume and the Dodecanese uniform was very special.

As the changing of the guard took place, Ioannis talked me through their moves and the significance of each toe point, fist clench and shape made with their silhouettes. I will save this for a more detailed post about the Evzones in the future.

After the changing of the guard, we made our way back to the Presidential Palace. Here I got the opportunity to look at the doulemas in more detail. The dark blue doulemas became part of the Evzones uniform in 1888. It is also known as the Pavlos Melas costume in honour of the Greek army officer and hero of the Macedonian Struggle.

The costume is made of a heavy blue wool tunic with a pleated skirt reminiscent of the battle dress worn by warriors from the early 19th century. The tunic is fastened on one side with gold metal buttons and embellished with a contrasting red embroidery. Two pairs of thick white woollen stockings are worn under the kilt and adorned with tassels worn right below the knee. Of course, the uniform was finished off with the iconic tsarouchi shoes. On this unusually hot spring afternoon, I felt for the Evzone on duty today. Ioannis told me that the changeover to the summer uniform doesn’t take place until May. When I suggested that there should be an adjustment to account for climate change, it was met with a look of scorn.☺️ The Evzones are far from being ‘snowflakes’.

When Ioannis told me about the connection between Pavlos Melas and the doulemas, I was able to connect the dots with my visit to the Yessios Museum in Edessa just a few weeks earlier. This unique and wonderful museum is dedicated to the story of the Macedonian Struggle. Here I’d seen an example of the typical uniform worn by the Macedonian fighters and it’s clear to see how the modern day uniform has been influenced.

Before we left the Evzones alone, Ioannis pointed me towards the Evzone on duty for a photo opportunity. I’ll admit, I find this type of photo a bit cringeworthy, but when a former officer of the Presidential Guard commands you, you obey! I prefer to put the places I visit at the front and foremost in my blog posts but oh well – if you can’t beat ’em, join them! Joking aside, I’m so grateful to Ioannis for his kindness and generosity to give me this deeper insight into the Evzones. Learning more about the uniforms really taps into my interest in clothing design and textiles. Everything that I’ve gleaned today will go into a dedicated post at some point in the future.