Monemvasia to the Deep Mani: Three Weeks in the Southern Peloponnese by Bus
This 3-week southern Peloponnese itinerary covers Monemvasia, Kythira, Elafonisos, Sparta, Gythio, Areopolis and Kalamata by bus and ferry. Best time: April for Greek Easter and spring flowers. Highlights: Monemvasia’s Byzantine fortress, Kythira’s shipwreck and waterfalls, Simos Beach’s turquoise waters, Mystras’s haunting ruins, Vathia’s tower houses, and the Dyros Caves. No car rental needed (mostly).
Note: This trip took place in April-May 2019. While the destinations remain as spectacular as ever, specific prices, bus schedules, and accommodation details may have changed. The KTEL bus network continues to serve the Peloponnese—check current timetables before travelling.
Places like Monemvasia and Vathia had always seemed inaccessible to me. Not having the courage to drive in Greece—the wrong side of the road combined with my terrible sense of direction, was a disaster waiting to happen. I’d assumed these dramatic destinations required a rental car. All was fine until we arrived on Kythira. From our accommodation in Diakofti, we soon realised that care hire was a necessity. Oh well, I had to face it sooner or later! Apart from Kythira, everywhere was perfectly doable by bus (with the odd taxi thrown in)
Three weeks later, mission accomplished. The KTEL bus network, small ferries, and occasional taxis delivered us to every destination on our list. Sometimes we didn’t know if a bus existed until we turned up at the station. Sometimes we waited under oak trees in mountain villages hoping transport would appear. Always, Greece rewarded our faith.
What Makes This Itinerary Special
Car hire isn’t always a given (except on Kythira)
This entire journey—from Athens to Monemvasia, across to Kythira, back via Elafonisos, through Sparta and down to the Deep Mani—was completed using public transport. The KTEL bus will generally make detours to villages just off the main highway if you ask. Sometimes the mystery of Greek bus schedules works in your favour.
Easter in Monemvasia
Timing the trip around Greek Easter meant experiencing Monemvasia at its most atmospheric. The Good Friday epitaphios procession through the castle’s narrow streets, boats with lights escorting from the sea—Byzantine traditions in a Byzantine fortress.
The Deep Mani’s Tower Houses
Areopolis and Vathia represent something unique in Greece—the stone tower houses of the Maniots, built for clan feuds and resistance. The statue of Petrobey Mavromichalis in Areopolis marks where the Greek War of Independence began in 1821. This is Greece’s most dramatic and least-visited region.
Beach Paradise at Elafonisos
Simos Beach consistently ranks among Greece’s finest—white sand, turquoise water, sand dunes you can climb for panoramic views. In spring, before the summer crowds, we had it practically to ourselves.
Byzantine Mystras
The ruined Byzantine city above Sparta offers churches with preserved frescoes, the Palace of the Despots, and views across the Eurotas valley to the snow-capped Taygetus mountains. Take a taxi to the top entrance and walk down—two hours of history unfolding.
Spring Flowers Everywhere
April in the Peloponnese means purple campanula sprouting from castle walls, poppies carpeting hillsides, the scent of chamomile and wild fennel. Monemvasia in particular felt like a botanical garden had invaded a medieval fortress.
The Route at a Glance
Route: Athens → Monemvasia → Kythira → Elafonisos → Sparta → Gythio → Areopolis → Kalamata (fly home)
Duration: 3 weeks (April-May 2019, including Greek Easter)
Transport: KTEL buses throughout, taxi Monemvasia-Neapoli, ferry Neapoli-Kythira, ferry Kythira-Neapoli-Elafonisos, occasional taxis for day trips and connections
Best Time: April for Easter celebrations and spring flowers. May-June for beach weather without summer crowds.
Who It’s For: Those who want to explore the Peloponnese without driving, travellers seeking dramatic landscapes off the tourist trail, Byzantine history enthusiasts, beach lovers willing to work for paradise, anyone who believes the journey matters as much as the destination
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Destination-by-Destination Itinerary
Days 1-5: Monemvasia
The five-and-a-half-hour bus journey from Athens prepared us for what lay ahead—passing over the Corinth Canal so quickly we barely saw it, through mountains snow-capped and velvety green, orange groves filling the bus with blossom scent. As we approached, the rock appeared through the haze—Monemvasia’s fortress island rising from the sea like a geological exclamation mark.
We hauled our suitcases across the causeway not realising there was a shuttle bus (€1.10 per person, every 30 minutes—learn from our mistake). Through the castle gate, cobblestones led us to our hotel at the far end of the medieval town. No vehicles here; porters carry everything.
Five nights allowed proper exploration. The Lower Town revealed itself through layers—restaurants with sea views, alleyways snaking between houses with distinctive exterior chimney stacks, door knockers worthy of photography, spring flowers erupting from every wall. The Upper Town (Kastro) demanded an evening climb for sunset views across the fortress.
Easter arrived with solemnity and beauty. The Good Friday epitaphios procession wound through the square and down to the sea, fishing boats with lights escorting from the water. To Kanoni restaurant’s roof terrace provided the perfect vantage point. We’d timed our arrival perfectly.
Getting There: KTEL Laconias bus from Athens Kifissos station, approximately 5.5 hours direct. Book online when tickets become available (usually one month before travel). Route passes through Corinth, Tripoli, and Sparta.
Getting Around: Walking within the castle. Shuttle bus from causeway to castle gate (€1.10, every 30 minutes). Gefyra (mainland town) offers pharmacies, cafés, and fish tavernas—walkable from the castle.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Hotel Malvasia – Rooms set into the rocks beneath the Kastro. Breakfast served in a building across the cobbled street. Popular café/bar attached. Book well ahead for Easter.
Where to Eat:
• Matoula – In business since 1950, views across the bay, excellent retsina
• To Kanoni – Main square, roof terrace perfect for Easter procession viewing, try the pork with savoury kataifi
• Taverna Asterias – In Gefyra by Monemvasia Beach, excellent fish, ask waiter Mike for recommendations
• Castello Café – In Gefyra, wonderful almond pastries
Don’t Miss: The climb to the Upper Town (Kastro) for sunset, Elkomenos Christos church, the Good Friday epitaphios if visiting at Easter, simply getting lost in the alleyways, the spring flowers erupting from every wall.
The Reality Check: Bring sturdy flat shoes with good grip—cobblestones are polished and slippery! No wheeled luggage practicality once inside the castle. Everything costs more here than mainland prices.
Onward Travel Connection: Taxi from Monemvasia to Neapoli (30km, approximately 40 minutes, €30), then ferry to Kythira.
→ Travelling to Monemvasia and First Impressions
→ Easter in Monemvasia
→ Monemvasia – Up to the Kastro and Other Points of Interest
Days 6-9: Kythira
The ferry from Neapoli delivered us to Diakofti port, where the famous Nordland shipwreck rusts photogenically in the harbour—it ran aground in August 2000 and has been a landmark ever since. Kythira announced itself immediately as something different: remote, wild, surprisingly large.
Here I lost my driving virginity in Greece. The roads demanded it—narrow, winding, mountainous. With Fillipos from Active Car Hire providing the wheels and moral support, we explored what our little legs couldn’t. Chora (the capital) revealed its Venetian fortress with views to die for. Milopotamos village delivered waterfalls made spectacular by unprecedented spring rains. The road to Agia Sofia cave tested every driving nerve I had.
Four days felt too short. Kythira has the beauty of the Cyclades, the greenery of the Ionian, and the remoteness of somewhere truly off the beaten path. The island sits between worlds—geographically between the Aegean and Ionian seas, historically between Venetian and Byzantine influences.
Getting Around: Car hire essential for exploration (Active Car Hire with Fillipos recommended). Roads challenging—narrow, winding, mountainous. Airport exists but feels like a flat anomaly amid the terrain.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Anemoni Studios, Diakofti – Walking distance from port, terraces overlooking the harbour and shipwreck. Clean, well-located, peaceful. Lovely host. Only drawback – although close to the port – far from the places of interest. Need car hire if staying here. Alternatively, Aronis Apartments in Kapsali
Don’t Miss: The Nordland shipwreck at Diakofti, Chora and its Venetian Kastro, Milopotamos village and waterfalls, Avlemonas fishing village (Cycladic whitewashed beauty), the terrifying but rewarding road to Agia Sofia cave.
The Reality Check: “Kythira is a very dangerous island to drive on,” warned the car rental sister. She wasn’t entirely wrong. Everything was very safe until we attempted the steep track down to Agia Sofia Cave!
Onward Travel Connection: Porfyrousa ferry back to Neapoli (same route as arrival), then onward to Pounta Port just 14 km by bus or taxi then ferry to Elafonisos.
🏩 Book Anemoni here
🏩 Book Kythia hotels here
→ Arrival on Kythira – Diakofti
→ Losing My Virginity on Kythira (Driving in Greece for the First Time!)
→ Day 2 of our Car Hire Challenge – Amir Ali Springs, Pharos and More!
→ Leaving Kythira and on to Elafonissos
Days 10-12: Elafonisos
The 10-minute RORO ferry from Pounda delivered us to an island that shouldn’t exist in Europe. Elafonisos is tiny—a fishing village port, a few tavernas, and some of Greece’s most spectacular beaches. No public transport, so walking became our method.
The 6-kilometre walk to Simos Beach took about 90 minutes, passing Lefki Beach along the way. Simos revealed itself in two connected bays—Megalo Simos and Micro Simos—divided by a strip of land leading to Cape Elena. White sand, turquoise water, sand dunes you can climb for panoramic views. In spring, practically deserted. The water was cold but the views were Caribbean.
The northwest beaches—Kontogoni and Kalogeras Bay—offered sunset views of the snow-capped Taygetus mountains across the water. Rock formations, white sand, solitude. The island hasn’t been “boutiquified” yet; it retains the authentic fishing village atmosphere that tourism often erases.
Getting Around: Walking. No public transport on the island. Simos Beach is 6km from the port (approximately 1.5 hours walk).
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Kalomira Studios. Great location and wonderful host in a modern property with small garden. Accommodation near the port for easy access to tavernas and ferry. The island is small; everything is walkable from the village.
Don’t Miss: Simos Beach (Greece’s finest), climbing the sand dunes for panoramic views, Lefki Beach en route to Simos, sunset at Kontogoni or Kalogeras Bay with Taygetus mountain views, the genuine fishing village atmosphere.
The Reality Check: Sunbed prices at Simos Beach are steep even in shoulder season. Summer brings overwhelming crowds. The walk to Simos is long in heat. Water is cold in spring.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry back to Pounda, then bus to Neapoli, followed by the bus to Sparta.
→ Leaving Kythira and on to Elafonissos
→ The Star of the Show – Simos Beach!
→ Last Day on Elafonissos – Greek MasterChef and Hospitality!
Days 13-15: Sparta & Mystras
The bus from Neapoli delivered us to Sparta—a surprisingly walkable, well-planned town with tree-lined grid streets. The snow-capped Taygetus mountains that had been our backdrop throughout the journey now loomed directly above. Twenty-four hours wasn’t enough, but we made them count.
Mystras demanded the day trip. A taxi to the top entrance (€13 one-way) allowed us to walk downhill through two hours of Byzantine ruins—the Kastro at the summit, the Palace of the Despots, churches with preserved frescoes, the haunting beauty of a city abandoned but not forgotten. At the base, Mystras village offered orange blossom scent and a final coffee.
In Sparta itself, the Leonidio statue outside the sports stadium provided the obligatory photo op. Ancient Sparta’s archaeological site—a 10-minute walk from our hotel—offered ancient theatre ruins and acropolis views. The Museum of the Olive and Greek Olive Oil surprised us with its quality.
Getting Around: Walking in Sparta (grid layout, very manageable). Taxi to Mystras top entrance (€13 one-way). Local bus also runs to Mystras.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Lakonia Hotel – Main street location, balcony views, central for walking to sites and restaurants.
Where to Eat:
• Mpuraria Abbaeio – Belgian beer selection, good bar food, lively atmosphere
Don’t Miss: Mystras Byzantine ruins (taxi to top, walk down—approximately 2 hours), Leonidio statue, Ancient Sparta archaeological site, Museum of the Olive and Greek Olive Oil, views of Taygetus mountains from anywhere in town.
The Reality Check: Mystras entrance fee is €12 per person. Get a taxi to the kastro and walk down. Twenty-four hours in Sparta feels rushed; allow more if possible. Summer heat makes Mystras challenging.
Onward Travel Connection: KTEL bus from Sparta to Gythio (approximately 1.5 hours).
→ Leaving Elafonissos and on to Sparta
→ More Sparta and a Trip to Mystras
Days 16-18: Gythio
Gythio announces itself as the gateway to the Mani—a harbour town with neoclassical mansions, some crumbling romantically, others restored beautifully. Our hotel, a 100-year-old mansion overlooking the harbour, upgraded us to a balcony room since we were the only guests.
The Dimitrios shipwreck at Valtaki Beach (5km northeast, taxi required) provided the must-see photo opportunity—a rusting cargo ship beached since 1981. The Kranae islet, connected to Gythio by causeway, supposedly marks where Helen and Paris departed for Troy. The 1873 lighthouse now houses the Mani Maritime Museum (closed for renovation during our visit).
Wandering Gythio’s old town revealed crumbling mansion houses waiting for restoration, a small ancient amphitheatre near an army base, and the relaxed atmosphere of a town that knows its best days may be ahead rather than behind.
Getting Around: Walking for the town. Taxi needed for Dimitrios shipwreck at Valtaki Beach.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Gythion Traditional Hotel – 100+ year old mansion overlooking the harbour. Character and location combined.
Where to Eat:
• Vitorino Gelato – Excellent gelato below the hotel, perfect harbour-watching spot
Don’t Miss: The Dimitrios shipwreck at Valtaki Beach, Kranae islet and the lighthouse, wandering the crumbling neoclassical old town, the ancient amphitheatre, harbour-front evening strolls.
The Reality Check: Gythio is a transit town for many—don’t rush through. Some mansions are genuinely crumbling rather than atmospherically distressed. The Dimitrios shipwreck requires a taxi.
Onward Travel Connection: KTEL bus from Gythio to Areopolis (short journey, small bus station on town outskirts).
→ Arrival at Gythio
→ Exploring Gythio – First Stop – The Dimitrios Shipwreck!
→ Last Day in Gythio
Days 19-21: Areopolis & The Deep Mani
Areopolis feels different from anywhere else in Greece. The stone tower houses—built for clan feuds and resistance—give it an austere beauty. In the main square, the statue of Petrobey Mavromichalis marks where the Greek War of Independence began on 17th March 1821. The Greek flag flies on one side, the Maniot “Victory or Death” flag on the other.
The village has been “boutiquified” to some extent—cool bars with upcycled furniture, candles strewn everywhere at night—but retains its essential character. The family-run Hotel Mani, with host Eleni providing local wisdom, became our base for exploring the Deep Mani.
Vathia demanded the day trip—the iconic Maniot tower village that photographs can’t quite capture. Bus to Gerolimenas (a charming seaside village), taxi onward to Vathia. The haunting cluster of tower houses, some restored, some crumbling, represents something unique in Greece’s architectural heritage.
The Dyros Caves required an early start—a boat tour through underground waterways, stalactites and stalagmites lit dramatically, an experience unlike anything else in Greece. A taxi was necessary (no bus service), but worth every euro.
Getting Around: Walking in Areopolis. Bus to Gerolimenas for Vathia (multiple daily services). Taxi for Dyros Caves and connections to Vathia. No bus to Dyros.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Hotel Mani – Family-run by Eleni and her husband (with help from Mama). Entrance to the village, excellent local knowledge. They also have a hotel in Limeni.
Where to Eat:
• Vasiliki – Next to church Agio Taksiarhes with impressive bell tower. Maniot specialities including pork tenderloin with braised figs, roasted goat with artichoke hearts. 10 out of 10.
• To Mavromichaleiko – Fantastic – more tastes of typcial Maniot dishes included the local pasta.
Don’t Miss: The statue of Petrobey Mavromichalis in the main square, day trip to Vathia (bus to Gerolimenas, taxi onward), Dyros Caves boat tour (taxi required, go at 9am), evening strolls through the candlelit village, walk to Limeni village and Neo Itilo nearby.
The Reality Check: Areopolis is “beautiful during the day—absolutely gorgeous at night.” No bus to Dyros Caves. Vathia requires taxi from Gerolimenas.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus from Areopolis to Itilo, connecting bus to Kalamata. On Saturdays, the bus may not detour to Itilo—we were bundled into a taxi with our bus tickets and left under an oak tree to wait. The bus eventually came. Patience (and faith) required.
→ Arrival at Areopolis
→ Vathia and Gerolimenas
→ The Dyros Caves, Limeni and Neo Itilo
Day 22: Kalamata & Home
The final bus journey delivered triumph—we’d completed the mission, proving the southern Peloponnese accessible by public transport. The route from Areopolis passed through Stoupa and Kardamyli (friends I wished I could stop to visit), the Taygetus mountains our constant companion.
Kalamata deserved more than an overnight, but flights dictate schedules. The Galaxy Hotel provided a spotlessly clean budget room. Evening exploration revealed a town with its own character—door knockers, charming streets, a kastro (closed), church services with beautiful singing, and Mama’s Sweet House for indulgent loukoumades.
The next morning: Kalamata Airport, flight home, and the satisfaction of a mission accomplished.
Getting Around: Walking in Kalamata. Taxi to airport.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Galaxy Hotel – Budget room, spotlessly clean, impressive reception area, balcony overlooking side street. Perfect for an overnight.
Where to Eat:
• Kalamaki Meze – Watch the priest greet his flock at the church in the square
• Mama’s Sweet House – Indulgent loukoumades for dessert
Don’t Miss: Evening exploration of the old town, door knockers and charming streets, the kastro (if open), Kalamata olives from anywhere.
Onward Travel Connection: Flight home from Kalamata
→ Leaving Mani for Kalamata – and Home
Is This Trip Right for You?
This itinerary is perfect if you:
• Want to prove the Peloponnese is accessible without a car (mostly)
• Seek dramatic landscapes off the tourist trail
• Appreciate Byzantine history and tower house architecture
• Love beaches worth walking for
• Embrace uncertainty and “make it up as you go along” travel
• Can handle occasional taxis when buses don’t reach
Think twice if you:
• Need everything “boxed off” before you travel
• Require guaranteed schedules and connections
• Struggle with walking distances (Elafonisos beaches require commitment)
• Want to cover maximum ground in minimum time
• Prefer luxury over character accommodation
• Need constant English-speaking assistance
Notes on Bus Travel in the Peloponnese
Key lessons from three weeks of KTEL buses:
• Book Athens departures online as soon as tickets become available (approximately one month ahead)
• Express buses skip the Corinth Canal photo opportunity—regular services stop at Tripoli
• The bus will generally detour to villages off the highway if you ask
• Saturday and holiday schedules are unreliable—check locally
• “Wherever you want to go, the bus will take you” said one station master—he was mostly right
• Small bus stations on town outskirts often have the most helpful staff
• Google Maps helps track your location—star destinations in advance
• Sometimes you’ll be bundled into taxis with your bus tickets—go with it
• Patience is not optional; it’s essential
Final Thoughts
Three weeks. Eight destinations. One personal mission accomplished.
Places like Monemvasia and Vathia had seemed inaccessible to me for years. The whole driving-on-the-wrong-side-of-the-road thing, combined with my terrible sense of direction, had kept them out of reach. This trip proved that assumption wrong. The KTEL bus network, supplemented by ferries and occasional taxis, delivered us everywhere we wanted to go.
Was it always easy? No. We hauled suitcases up causeways not knowing shuttle buses existed. We waited under oak trees in mountain villages hoping transport would appear. We navigated timetables that existed more in hope than certainty. We lost our driving virginity on Kythira’s terrifying mountain roads.
But we made it. Easter in Monemvasia’s Byzantine fortress. Simos Beach practically to ourselves. Mystras’s frescoes glowing in afternoon light. Vathia’s tower houses haunting against the sky. The Dyros Caves’ underground waterways. A bus appearing half an hour late on a mountain road, my cheer of joy bouncing around the hills of Itilo.
This type of trip isn’t for the faint-hearted—especially if you like everything planned before departure. But the “make it up as you go along” approach allowed us to add Sparta and Mystras when the opportunity arose. Flexibility became our greatest asset.
We could have done with an extra week. Four weeks would just be being greedy. But three weeks proved the point: the southern Peloponnese belongs to those willing to wait for buses, walk for beaches, and trust that Greece will deliver.
It always does.
If you’d like to see how this journey unfolds, follow the ‘next’ button below
