Northern Aegean Adventure: Chios, Oinousses, Psara & Lesvos
This 6-week Northern Aegean itinerary covers Athens, Chios, Oinousses, Psara, and Lesvos by ferry and public transport. Best time: May-October. Highlights: Chios mastic villages, Oinousses shipowner heritage, remote Psara, Lesvos ouzo distilleries. No car rental needed.
The Northern Aegean islands get a fraction of the tourists that flood the Cyclades, which means they’ve kept their authenticity intact. This 6-week journey starts in Athens and takes you through some of Greece’s most fascinating lesser-known islands. These aren’t quick day-trip destinations—they require time to understand, patience with ferry schedules, and a genuine interest in the Greece that exists beyond the tourist trail. This is island hopping for travellers who want depth of experience over Instagram shots. There is plenty of scope to reduce the itinerary duration, but these islands are meant to be explored and savoured!
What Makes This Itinerary Special
Authenticity – These islands haven’t been sanitised for tourists, real working economies beyond tourism, genuine local culture
Variety – Wealthy Oinousses, remote Psara, diverse Chios, and vibrant Lesvos all in one trip
History – From naval heritage, medieval mastic villages, Greek War of Independence history to Byzantine citadels and monasteries
Getting Around – Absolutely possible to do this itinerary without the need to hire a car – bus services from nil (Oinousses and Psara) to excellent (Chios and Lesvos), with plenty of walking opportunities
Gateway and return – Athens bookends make flights and logistics easier
The Route at a Glance
Route: Athens → Chios → Oinousses → Psara → Chios → Lesvos → Athens
Duration: 6 weeks, but flexible depending on ferry schedules and how long you want to stay on each island
Transport: Flights from Athens to Chios, local ferries between islands, return ferry or flight from Lesvos to Athens
Best Time: May-October (winter ferry service is limited, especially to Psara and Oinousses). Chios and Lesvos are year-round destinations, though some ‘resorts’ are as dead as a doornail beyond October. There are permenant residents on both Oinousses and Psara so winter stays may be possible.
Who It’s For: Independent travellers, history enthusiasts, those seeking authentic Greece well off the beaten path
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Island-by-Island Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Athens
Getting There: International flights to Athens. If you arrive early enough, you should be able to get a connecting flight to Chios the same day. If not, spend an overnight in Rafina, Artemida or Spata close to the airport.
Where to Stay: If you need an overnight stay close to the airport, I recommend the Avra Hotel, where free airport transfers are included in the rates.
Onward Travel Connection: Domestic flight to Chios. The ferry from Piraeus to Chios takes 8-9 hours, so if you don’t want that time to eat into your trip, get the plane.
→ Read about my overnight in Athens and onward journey to Chios
Days 2-14: Chios
Chios is a proper working island—not overly touristy and with a modern working town, an old citadel that harks back to another era and lots of charming villages. Key highlights – medieval mastic villages in the south that look like stone fortresses, and the mountain villages in the north. To get the most out of Chios, I highly recommend you stay at least 12 days or longer as there’s a lot to see on this large(r) island. Instead of island hopping, you can village hop. Start with Chios Town, where you can absorb yourself in the museums and the charms of the old citadel. Then head to the north for a stay in Avgonima, Volissos or one of the northern coastal villages. Spend the last part of your stay in the mastic villages – though it doesn’t really matter which way round you visit them.
Getting Around: The bus service on Chios is very good with weekday connections to the south and north via the intercity service (green bus line). The bus station is close to the port. There is also the urban bus service (blue bus line) operating local routes. The terminus is adjacent to the Municipal Gardens.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendations
Chios Town (central): For access to the wonderful array of museums and the charming Citadel. I recommend the Agora Residence on the main shopping street of Aplotarias for location and excellent hospitality. I’ve stayed in 5 – 6 accommodations in Chios Town, all documented in the blog. 🏩 Book the Agora Residence Here
Avgonima (north): For a flavour of mountain village life and the opportunity to walk amongst nature. A short distance from the fascinating village of Anavatos, both accessible by bus. I recommend Spitakia Stone Houses for incredible views and a wonderful host. 🏩 Book Spitakia Stone Houses Here
Limnia (north): A small, relaxed coastal settlement known for its long sandy beach, calm waters, and quiet, unspoilt atmosphere. It sits within walking distance and below the hilltop village of Volissos with its Byzantine-era castle and stone houses. 2 villages for the price of one! I recommend Porto Limnia with its lovely spacious apartments close to the beach and a wonderful host. During summer, there is a local boat service from Limnia Port to Psara (I didn’t use this service, but found out about it whilst there) 🏩 Book Porto Limnia Here
Pyrgi (south): For the chance to stay in a medieval mastic village. This village is known for its unique ‘xysta’ designs on the houses and the bridges that cross from house to house (to escape the pirates). Also in close proximity to the incredible Mastic Museum and the coast at Emborios. I had the pleasure of staying at To Pounti – A 14th Century Pyrgi Village House with the wonderful hosts Toula, Mr Costa and their parrot Fidelina. Yes, it gets day visitors, but in the evening, you will see a truly authentic Greek village. If you prefer to be by the coast, I recommend the Emporios Bay Hotel – close to the famous Mavra Volia Beach and hosted by a lovely family. 🏩 Book Emporios Bay Hotel Here
Kampos (south central): Kampos for a stay in the historic fruit-producing village with high stone mansions, citrus groves, and narrow-walled lanes, creating a uniquely atmospheric blend of medieval Genoese architecture and fragrant orchards. I highly recommend Mouzaliko Guesthouse Mansion for a stay in a traditional archontika on a citrus estate with welcoming hosts. 🏩 Book Mouzaliko Guesthouse Mansion Here
Don’t Miss: The mountain village of Anavatos and Avgonnima, the seaside village of Lagada for fresh fish, Nea Moni monastery (UNESCO site), the mastic villages (Pyrgi, Mesta, etc) and the Mastic Museum, black pebble beach at Mavra Volia, the citadel in Chios Town, Volissos and its castle. Walk to the iconic windmills at Vrontados. Also possible to do a day trip to Cesme in Turkey with regular excursion boats from Chios Town.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry from Chios Town to Oinousses (30-40 minutes). Tickets can be bought from Sunrise Travel – owner of the ship Oinoussai III. There is also a water taxi service operating between Lagada and Oinousses.
→ Read about my visit to Avgonima and the Cronky Bus No 17!
→ Read about my surprise trip to the Mastic Museum near Pyrgi
→ Read about my walk from Limnia to Limnos and Volissos
Days 15-19: Oinousses
Population: Around 800, but at times feels less. Oinousses is one of Greece’s shipowning capitals—Greek shipping dynasties have roots here. It’s also an island of ship captains; the island is intrinsically tied to the maritime trade. Grand mansions line the harbour, pristine churches with marble courtyards dot the hillsides, and several small secluded beaches to choose from. It’s an odd mix of humble island life and serious money. However, pretentious it is not!
Oinousses has one of the most beautiful approaches to an island that I’ve experienced. The island is part of an archipelago, offering stunning vistas from around the island. The landscape is rugged and breathtaking.
Getting Around: Walk. The village is set amphitheatrically behind the port and fairly steep – but oh those views! Good walking trails where you can hike the length and breadth of the island.
Where to Stay: Limited accommodation—mostly rooms to rent. During term time booked up by teachers working at the Naval Academy. Book ahead if possible or ask at the port. My personal recommendation is Oinousses Studios, close to the top of the village. Owned by a lovely family.
What It’s Really Like: Quiet, prosperous, slightly surreal. A Greek island with a real sense of self that doesn’t bow to tourism.
Don’t Miss: Look for the Mermaid of Egnoussa lounging on her rock in the bay as you enter the harbour by boat. Naval Museum, a walk over the top of the island to the monastery, the grand mansions, and deserted beaches on the quieter side of the island. If you’re lucky, get a fisherman to take you in his caique around the archipelago as I did!
The Reality Check: Not a wide choice of tavernas (2-3). My favourite was Rodostamo Trattoria up by the church. A few mini-markets, bring cash, don’t expect nightlife
Onward Travel Connection: You ‘may’ be able to get a direct ferry to Psara from Oinousses. If not, you may need to return to Chios, where an overnight stay may be required, and then make an onward connection to Psara. There is also a seasonal connection to Psara from Limnia – it’s a small boat and won’t show up on booking sites.
→ Read about my birthday boat trip around the archipelago of Oinousses and its islets
→ Oinousses’s interior landscape with views of the surrounding archipelago
→ Oinousses – the island that stole my heart
Days 20-23: Psara
The edge of Greece. The edge of everywhere. Psara is remote, rugged, historically significant, and sees almost no tourists apart from Greeks. The island played a heroic role in the Greek War of Independence and was nearly destroyed for it in 1824. Today, the population hovers around 400, there’s one main village, and time moves very, very slowly.
Ideal for solitude-seekers, travellers who want to experience an island almost untouched by tourism. Those interested in the Greek War of Independence (Psara was a key player). If you want wild beauty and to understand Greek island resilience and to immerse yourself in a friendly and welcoming community, you’ll love it.
Getting Around: Walk. The island is small and mostly walkable, though hilly. No apparent taxi service – speak to a local to find out options
Where to Stay: Very limited rooms and one hotel. Ask at the port or taverna upon arrival or contact Psara Travel for help
Don’t Miss: The war memorial on the top of Mavri Rachi, the Monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and the Archaeological Park (both need transport), Agia Kyriaki Beach (my favourite), pay homage to island hero Konstantinos Kanares, absolute silence
The Reality Check: This is REMOTE. Several tavernas (2-3), and a couple of small shops, bring supplies and cash JIC.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry back to Chios. Psara Travel can issue tickets and advise on ferry schedules.
→ A sunset walk to Mavri Rachi and the monument to the Psara Holocaust of 1924
→ A visit to the Monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Days 24-28: Chios (Final Stay)
Your last stint on Chios. By now you’ll know the island well—favorite tavernas, best bakeries, hidden beaches. Use this time to revisit places you loved or explore corners you missed.
Getting Around: The bus of course! Maybe a taxi.
Where to Stay: Depending on how many nights you want/need, stay close to Chios Town for short stays. Kampos is close enough to Chios Town and most worthy of at least a couple of days.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry to Lesvos (1.5 hours)
Days 29-40: Lesvos
Lesvos (Mytilini) is the third-largest Greek island and feels substantial after tiny Oinousses and Psara. Famous for ouzo production, petrified forests, and a vibrant cultural scene. The island has proper towns, beautiful traditional villages and diverse landscapes, and enough to explore for weeks. Like Chios, village hopping will enable you to get the most out of the island.
Getting Around: The intercity buses (green line) from Mytiline connects to villages across the island – may need to change buses in central hubs such as Kalloni. Also an urban bus line (blue) that runs from Mytilene to neighbouring villages.
Where to Stay: My Personal Recommendations
Mytilini Town (the capital): A very good starting point to get a feel for Mytilene and do a couple of day trips by bus. The bus station is fairly central – a 20-25 minute walk from the port. Mytiline has a lot of character with a good shopping centre. A 10-minute walk from the bus station is the Secret Garden, a brand new building with a landscaped garden and a modern roof terrace. Highly recommended. A couple of good budget accommodations that I enjoyed in the town centre are the BeeHive and Havenly Loft. I also recommend Hotel Lesvion overlooking the harbour. 🏩 Book Secret Garden Studios Here
Molyvos: Picturesque village in the north of Lesvos – not possible to do as a day trip if you’re reliant on the bus, but worth at least 5-7 days. The village is set amphitheatrically with steep streets. For a budget accommodation, look at Eleni Studios and Apartments set in an olive grove at the entrance to the village and close to the bus stop. Other options are Moongarden Village and Hermes Hotel (scaling steep streets not required) 🏩 Book Moon Garden Village Here
Skala Eressos: Skala Eressou is a laid-back seaside village on Lesvos, centred around a long sandy beach and a wooden boardwalk lined with relaxed tavernas and cafés. It has a bohemian, welcoming atmosphere with deep cultural ties to Sappho, who was born in nearby ancient Eressos. It’s also home to one of the world’s longest-running and most significant international women’s (lesbian) festivals, held every September. Highly recommend Elefteria Studios – wonderful host and has a rare pool!
🏩 Browse Hotels in Skala Eressou Here
Sigri: Sigri is a quiet, end-of-the-road fishing village on the western tip of Lesvos, known for its wide bay, soft volcanic landscapes and peaceful, unhurried atmosphere. It’s also the gateway to the UNESCO-listed Petrified Forest, with the Natural History Museum here serving as the centrepiece for exploring this unique geological wonder. A budget option central in the village is Ionnides Sigri Studios.
Don’t Miss: Mytilene castle, Plomari and its ouzo distilleries, the charming village of Agiasos, Therma and its abandoned spas, the Monastery of Agios Raphael, Skala Kalloni. All is possible to do as a day trip from Mytilene. In Molyvos, walk to the castle for views over the village. Stroll through the olive groves to Molyvos Beach – the far end for nudists. Walk to Eftalou thermal spa and immerse yourself in the healing waters. Skala Eressou is a beach resort – makes use of the long stretches of golden sand. Walk to Turtle Bridge and the marina at the other end of the bay. Catch a taxi to Eressou Village and stay for lunch in one of the traditional tavernas. If staying in Sigri, visit the Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest – make sure you walk to the forest beyond the museum, which stretches beyond the bay. Visit the interesting Folklore Museum in Agia Triada Church and immerse yourself in the character of a small village.
Onward Travel Connection: Fly from Lesvos to Athens (45 minutes). Some direct flights from Lesvos to regional UK airports. Ferry to Piraeus (10-12 hours).
→ Come with me whilst I visit the traditional village of Agiasos
→ A walk from Molyvos to Eftalou hot springs
→ OXI Day celebrations in Molyvos
Days 41-42: Return to Athens
Complete the circle back to Athens and spend a few days exploring the city.
Getting Around: Athens has an excellent transport network and easily walkable to key sites. Walk, metro, bus, tram
KTEL Athens Bus Schedule
Metro Map of Athens
Where to Stay: My favourite hotel is the Attalos Hotel, a good budget option 5-minute walk from Monastiraki Square and Metro station. Has a roof terrace offering Acropolis views. Alternatives are the Hotel Plaka, close to the Metropolitan Cathedral and the Lotus Inn on Ermou. 🏩 Book the Attalos Hotel Here
Don’t Miss: Phew! Where to begin! Of course, every first visit to Athens must include the Acropolis and its museum and a stroll to Syntagma Square to say hello to the Evzones. There is so much to see and do in Athens that it’s easy to become overwhelmed. For inspiration, check out Get Your Guide (links at the bottom of each page). I feel a top 100 Athens sites to visit post coming on!
Budget
Total Cost: £2,788
(6 Weeks, Solo Traveller – September-October 2022)
This includes flights, accommodation, ferry tickets, and airport/port transfers. It does NOT include daily meals, on-island transport, activities, or sundries.
What’s Included:
✈️ Flights: £588
• Manchester → Athens → Chios (outbound)
• Lesvos → Athens → Manchester (return)
🏨 Accommodation: €2,452 (42 nights)
• Athens: 4 nights (€371)
• Chios: 17 nights (€768.50) – village hopping
• Oinousses: 8 nights (€520)
• Psara: 6 nights (€240)
• Lesvos: 14 nights (€551.50)
⛴️ Ferry tickets: €46.50
• Chios ↔ Oinousses ↔ Psara: €27.50
• Chios → Lesvos: €19
What’s NOT Included:
• Daily meals and drinks (budget €25-40/day)
• On-island transport (buses on Chios/Lesvos, occasional taxis – minimal costs)
• Activities (museum entries, boat trips, etc.)
• Sundries
Budget Tips:
💡 Flights: Domestic Greek flights can be affordable if booked early. The ferry from Piraeus to Chios takes 8-9 hours but is cheaper if time isn’t an issue
💡 Accommodation: Incredibly affordable across all islands—average €58/night for 6 weeks!
💡 Oinousses & Psara: Simple, family-run rooms at great prices
💡 Ferries: Inter-island ferries are extremely good value (€9-19 per hop)
💡 Bus travel: Excellent KTEL services on Chios and Lesvos make car hire unnecessary
💡 Village hopping: Staying in different villages on Chios and Lesvos adds variety without increasing costs
The Bottom Line: Six weeks sounds expensive, but this itinerary is surprisingly budget-friendly. Flights are the biggest expense (£588). Once you’re on the islands, accommodation averages just €58/night, and daily costs remain low. Athens and Lesvos have options at all price points, Chios is very reasonable, and the smaller islands (Oinousses, Psara) have minimal expenses once you arrive.
What to Pack: To be honest, if you need ideas on what to pack, this definitely isn’t a trip for you.
Why Skip the Car Rental?
Athens: Not needed. Metro and buses are excellent
Chios: If you want to cover a lot of ground, a car or scooter is useful for 2-3 days. Don’t rent for your whole stay
Oinousses: Completely walkable. Save your money
Psara: No need. The island is tiny and best explored on foot
Lesvos: Useful for 2-3 days if you want to cover the whole island, but buses connect major towns
Note: The hotels and guesthouses recommended here are places I’ve either stayed in myself or vetted through my work as a travel consultant with Hidden Greece. No generic recommendations – only authentic experiences.
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