Island Hopping Beyond the Crowds: Six Weeks from Samos to Kos via Agathonisi, Fourni, Ikaria, Arki, Patmos, Leros & Kalymnos
This six-week Eastern Aegean and Dodecanese itinerary covers Samos, Agathonisi, Ikaria, Fourni, Arki, Marathi, Patmos, Leros, and Kalymnos by ferry. Best time: late June to early September/October and even November. Highlights: quaint Agathonisi, beach-bar culture on Ikaria, pristine isolation on Arki, Italian art deco architecture on Leros, stunning Telendos sunsets from Kalymnos. No car rental needed.
There comes a point in life when you stop waiting for the perfect moment and simply book the flight. In 2019, the year I turned 60, that moment arrived. My family couldn’t join me for the grand celebration trip I’d imagined, so I spotted a cheap flight to Samos and thought: why not? Six weeks of solo island-hopping through some of Greece’s most remote and authentic corners awaited.
This journey took me from the pine-clad slopes of the North-Eastern Aegean through a constellation of tiny Dodecanese islands that most visitors never reach. From the 185-inhabitant hamlet of Agathonisi to the bohemian beaches of Ikaria, from the 44-person community of Arki to the surprisingly sophisticated Italian architecture of Leros, this route represents a Greece that exists beyond the tourist brochures. The ferries were sometimes late, the accommodation was always simple, and the welcome was unfailingly warm.
What Makes This Itinerary Special
A Gateway Through the North-Eastern Aegean
Beginning on Samos provides access to a fascinating cluster of islands that sit at the intersection of the North-Eastern Aegean and the Dodecanese. From Pythagorio, with its ancient harbour and memories of Pythagoras, the Nissos Kalymnos ferry opens up a chain of tiny islands that would otherwise be virtually inaccessible to independent travellers.
The Small Islands That Time Forgot
This route includes some of Greece’s most undiscovered destinations: Agathonisi (population 185), Fourni (an archipelago only recently emerging from obscurity), and Arki (where the permanent population hovers around 44 souls). These are places where chickens outnumber tourists and the arrival of the weekly supply boat is still the highlight of the day.
From Bohemian Beaches to Italian Modernism
The contrast in this journey is extraordinary. One day you’re swimming at Nas beach on Ikaria while goats watch from the hillside; a week later you’re admiring Mussolini’s art deco cinema in the planned town of Lakki on Leros. Each island brings a completely different character and history.
Walking Routes and Hidden Beaches
Every island on this route rewards those willing to explore on foot. From the hour-long walk to Tholio on Agathonisi to the 6km trek over the hill to Lakki on Leros, from the coastal path to Kambi beach on Fourni to the mountain trails of Ikaria, this itinerary is designed for those who prefer walking boots to sunloungers.
Authentic Greek Hospitality
On the smaller islands, the personal welcome is part of the experience. Eleni meeting me off the ferry at Agathonisi and walking me to Mary’s Rooms. Nikolas coming to collect me at Arki’s tiny harbour. Apostilis at Nefeli Studios on Kalymnos presenting me with a small gift as I departed. This is not curated tourism but genuine connection.
Designed for Public Transport
Every connection on this route is possible by ferry and local bus. The Nissos Kalymnos and Dodekanisos Express serve the small island chain, while larger Blue Star ferries connect the major hubs. Local buses exist on Patmos, Leros, and Kalymnos. Walking handles the rest.
The Route at a Glance
Route: Samos (Pythagorio) → Agathonisi → Ikaria (Armenistis) → Fourni → Arki/Marathi → Patmos → Leros → Kalymnos (Myrties) → Kos (Mastichari)
Duration: 6 weeks as travelled, but flexible depending on ferry schedules and how deeply you wish to immerse yourself in each location. Could be compressed to 3 weeks if using Agathonisi and Patmos as day trips.
Transport: International flights to Samos Airport; inter-island ferries (Nissos Kalymnos, Dodekanisos Express, Blue Star); local buses on larger islands; walking on small islands; departure flight from Kos.
Best Time: Late June through early September for reliable ferry connections and swimming weather. July and August are warmest but also busiest on the larger islands. The small islands remain peaceful throughout.
Who It’s For: Solo travellers comfortable with their own company, walkers, swimmers, those seeking authentic over polished, and anyone who values a warm local welcome over five-star facilities.
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Island-by-Island Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival on Samos (Pythagorio)
Getting There: Samos Airport (SMI) receives international flights from several European cities, Jet2 have started connections from 3 UK airports. Back in 2019 there were no direct flights from Manchester – I flew via Düsseldorf on a budget routing. The airport is located 4km from Pythagorio, approximately €10 by taxi.
Getting Around: Samos has good bus connections between the main towns (Pythagorio, Vathi/Samos Town, Kokkari). For a transit stop, Pythagorio is ideal as ferries to the small islands depart from here.
Pythagorio is a lively port town with a kastro, waterfront cafés, and enough to explore for an evening stroll even when exhausted from travel. But this wasn’t my destination, merely the jumping-off point for smaller, quieter places.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Hotel Dolphin sits right on the harbour with a café-bar on the waterfront. Rooms are basic but adequate for an overnight transit. Be aware music from the harbour front bars can continue until 4am. For those who need quiet, consider accommodation a few streets back.
Onward Travel Connection: The Nissos Kalymnos (in 2019) departs Pythagorio for Agathonisi (approximately 2.5 hours). Check current schedules on ANES Ferries or Ferryhopper. The Dodekanisos Express also serves this route but is faster and bouncier in rough weather. For those with emetophobia or seasickness concerns, the slower Nissos Kalymnos offers a more stable ride.
🏩 Book accommodation on Samos here
→ Read about my arrival on Samos and first impressions of Pythagorio
Days 2-7: Agathonisi
As the Nissos Kalymnos approached Agathonisi, I understood immediately why I’d come. The island presents its barren back to arriving ferries, covered in low scrub with waves chopping at its ankles. Only as you circle around does the narrow, deep bay slowly reveal itself. Just me, a couple of Greeks, and some soldiers returning to camp disembarked. The silence was broken only by goats and roosters on the hillside.
Getting Around: Agathonisi has no bus service and no need for one. The island is entirely walkable. From Agios Georgios (the port) to Megalo Chorio (the upper village) is a 15-minute climb. From Mary’s Rooms to the port is a 5-minute stroll over a small bluff.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: I stayed in Mary’s Rooms – it was a wonderful stay but in recent years that have become almost uncontactable and the property seems a little neglected (as reported by one of my clients staying elsewhere) Agathonisi (Voula’s) Rooms is a good alternative. Contact Voula via the Glaros Cafe or O Giorgos. Nothing has been “boutiquified” here, giving it an air of authenticity. Also Giannis Rooms.
Where to Eat: Taverna O Giorgos near the port serves all the Greek traditional food and more. Come at 7:30 once the sun has dipped behind the hill. Glaros Restaurant in Megalo Chorio offers spectacular views and is worth the climb. There’s also a small minimarket for basics.
Don’t Miss:
● The walk to Katholiko beach (approximately 1 hour) through wildflower-scattered hillsides
● The climb to Megalo Chorio for sunset views and dinner at Glaros
● The walk to Tholio in the north of the island for complete solitude
● Simply sitting on the beach outside Mary’s Rooms watching the day drift by
The Reality Check: Agathonisi has a permanent population of around 185. There are two or three tavernas, one minimarket, and very limited accommodation. This is an island for those who genuinely want to escape. If you need entertainment, nightlife, or reliable wifi, look elsewhere. The ferries don’t come every day, so plan your dates carefully.
Onward Travel Connection: For Ikaria, I had to return to Samos for another overnighter and then onto Ikaria the next morning. The boat to Ikaria from Pythagorio goes to Agios Kyrikos, one of two ports on the southern side of the island. Schedules have changed over the years so check Ferryhopper for current routing options.
🏩 Book Agathonisi Rooms here: voulamicheli@gmail.com +30 697 891 6926
🏩 Book Giannis Rooms here: agathonisi13@gmail.com +30 697 721 5879
→ The Journey Begins: From Samos to Agathonisi via Pythagorio, Festival Chaos & a Windy Ferry Ride
→ Agathonisi Day One: Exploring St George, Cave Beach and the Hilltop Village of Micro Chorio
Days 8-9: Another overnighter in Pythagorio
Pretty much the same as day one. Pythagorio is a good place to connect with both Agathonisi and Ikaria. I stayed at Hotel Dolphin again for its close proximity to the port. (earplugs required!)
Days 10-15: Ikaria (Therma)
Ikaria is unlike anywhere else in Greece. Named for Icarus who fell into the sea nearby, the island has a reputation for longevity, left-wing politics, and a relaxed approach to timekeeping. Buses sometimes run, shops occasionally open, and the beach bars play music until the early hours. After the silence of Agathonisi, Armenistis felt almost cosmopolitan
Getting Around: I hate to say it, but without car hire, Ikaria is a difficult island to traverse. The island is divided in half by a mountain range and there is no bus service on the island bar a very limited seasonal service on the northern coast. Walking is excellent, and the coastal paths between beaches are well-trodden. Without a car, you’ll miss the remote villages of the interior, but the north coast is accessible on foot. A local boat runs between Therma and Agios Kirykos.
Where to Stay: My Personal Recommendation: Hotel Oinoi was lovely. Just a five minute walk from the beach and thermal spas the village is known for, wonderful hosts and homemade produce for breakfast.
Where to Eat: O Kritikos right on the beach, was amazing – see post below for photos. Paralia and Taverna Meltemi all provide good Greek fare – great choice for a little village.
Don’t Miss:
● Thermal spa by the beach (it did wonders for my aged joints!)
● A boat ride to Agios Kirykos to explore the town and for a good choice of shops
● Walk the coastal path along the cliff to find secluded beaches.
● At the time there was a travel agency in Therma that ran island tours. It was excellent but they closed a few years back. It was definitely worth it to see the islands interior.
The Reality Check: Ikaria is a lively island famous for its panagiri. Therma is just a small spa town but it has character. Getting around without a car would be a challenge. For those who like their holidays structured and efficient, Ikaria may prove frustrating.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferries connect Ikaria (Agios Kirykos) to Fourni. The Fourni crossing is short and frequent in summer.
→ Exploring Ikaria in a Day: Evdilos, Theoktistis, Christos Raches and Armenistis on a Guided Island Tour
→ Therma & Agios Kyrikos Guide: What to See, Where to Eat, Thermal Springs, Beaches & Breakfast at Oinoi Hotel
→ Saying Goodbye to Ikaria: Six Days in Therma, Coast Walks, Hot Springs, Local Life & the Ferry to Fourni
Days 16-20: Fourni
Fourni is an archipelago that has only recently emerged from obscurity. The main island was a base for sponge divers and fishermen, and even today it feels like a working community rather than a tourist destination. The village wraps around a natural harbour, its cafés and tavernas facing the fishing boats that still provide the island’s livelihood.
Getting Around: Fourni has a kind of bus service. Local Frantzeska is a one-woman transport service offering everything from the school run, package collection from the ferry and saving stranded tourists. Fourni is very walkable, steep in parts but fairly accessible. Ferry connects to neighbouring islet Thymina.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Patras Rooms – simple but comfortable rooms above their cafe overlooking the port. They also have larger studios a short walk away. Also recommend Toula Rooms – all overlooking the port and harbour. Was approximately €25-30 per night in 2019, it’s one of the best budget options I found on this trip.
Where to Eat: Fourni is known for its fresh fish, caught daily by the local fleet. Several tavernas on the harbour front serve the catch of the day. For breakfast and coffee, the village cafés offer simple but satisfying options. One island where you’re still invited into the kitchen to choose your meal – no menus. One of the last remaining ‘old school’ islands.
Don’t Miss:
● the ferry over to Thymina for the day to experience travelling back in time
● visit to the fishing village of Chrysomilia (upper and lower connected by 600 steps) Try the catch of the day (Frantzeska’s parents taverna)
● Kampi and Psili Amos Beaches
The Reality Check: Fourni is small and quiet. The beaches are reached on foot, often via rocky paths. There’s no nightlife to speak of and limited shopping. The charm is in the simplicity and the sense that you’re somewhere genuine, but visitors expecting facilities will be disappointed.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry from Fourni to Patmos to connect to Arki. Check current schedules carefully as routes change seasonally.
→ Arriving on Fourni: First Impressions of Kampos Village, Mulberry Streets, Alleyway Wandering & the Walk to the Windmill
→ Exploring Fourni on Foot: Kampi Beach, the Windmills, and a Taxi Adventure to Chrysomilia Village
→ A Day Trip to Thymena from Fourni: Stone Steps, Fishing Huts, Hilltop Churches & a Swim in a Quiet Cove
→ Fourni Reflections: Seven Days of Local Life, Old-School Hospitality, Steep Steps, Quiet Beaches & A Warm Farewell
Days 21-22: Patmos – an Overnighter
Patmos is an island I know from previous visits, so this time I allowed just 36 hours for a return to the magnificent Chora and its famous monastery. Known as the “Jerusalem of the Aegean,” the island draws pilgrims to the Cave of the Revelation where St John wrote the Book of Revelation. But beyond its religious significance, Patmos has one of Greece’s most beautiful capitals.
Getting Around: Patmos has an excellent bus service connecting Skala (the port) to Chora, the beaches, and surrounding villages. Standard fare is €1.80 to anywhere. Timetables are available at patmosbus.gr.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: A very popular place with my clients is Villa Knossos who have rooms and studios. The hotel will provide port transfer services. I stayed at the Effie Hotel which also offers port transfers and breakfast is included – also in a good location. Skala has many accommodation options at various price points, and staying there provides easy access to buses and ferries.
Where to Eat: Sagittarius Taverna on the Skala waterfront was open late when I arrived hungry and exhausted. The Chora has several cafés with spectacular views for refreshment stops. Ice cream and cold drinks are essential given the steep climbs.
Don’t Miss:
● The Chora – one of Greece’s most beautiful and well-preserved settlements
● The 12th-century Monastery of St John the Theologian (€4 entry, modest dress required)
● The incredible door knockers throughout the Chora – over 70 unique designs on grand captain’s houses
● The windmills at the edge of the Chora, where a friendly priest sells incense
● The view from Chora down to Skala
The Reality Check: Patmos is more developed and more visited than the smaller islands on this route. The Chora can be hot and busy, especially when cruise ship day-trippers arrive. Religious pilgrims dominate the scene, and the island has a more refined, upmarket feel than Arki or Agathonisi. But it’s worth it for the architecture alone.
Onward Travel Connection: Patmos is well-connected by ferry to Leros, Kalymnos, Kos, and Rhodes (southbound) or Lipsi, Arki, Samos, and Piraeus (northbound). Multiple companies serve the island.
→ Read about my flying visit to Patmos – door knocker paradise
Days 23-29: Arki and Marathi
People said I was crazy to stay on Arki for 7 days. What on earth would I do with only goats for company? Well Arki suited me just fine and I could easily have stayed longer. This tiny island, home to around 44 permanent residents, sits in a cluster of islets accessible only by small ferry or private boat. There are few cars, one or two shops but a couple of very good tavernas (both of which have rooms). On this island there is nothing to do except swim, walk, eat, and exist. It was precisely what I needed.
Getting Around: Arki is small enough to walk everywhere. The main “village” consists of a few houses, several tavernas with rooms, and a small church. Paths lead to various swimming spots around the coast. The neighbouring islet of Marathi is reached by boat taxi arranged through any of the tavernas.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: I stayed at Katsavidis Rooms – good, simple accommodation with a great host who is the cousin of Nikolas from Nikolas Taverna and Rooms. More good basic accommodation but the welcome is genuine and warm. Nikolas or a family member will meet you from the ferry. There’s also O Trypas taverna just across the square with similar arrangements. Both options are budget-friendly.
Where to Eat: Your choices are Nikolas Taverna or O Trypas. Both serve fresh fish and simple Greek dishes. The tomato salads are exceptional. On Marathi, Pantelis Taverna is the sole dining option and offers a beautiful setting on the tiny beach.
Day Trips from Arki: Captain Stelios and his small boat Maria, deliver packages from the big ferry over to Marathi. He’ll also take tourists there and back too. The trip to Marathi is unmissable – a pristine beach, one taverna, and nothing else. You can spend the day swimming and eating before the boat returns you to Arki. Lipsi is also accessible as a day trip.
Don’t Miss:
● A day trip to Marathi for lunch at Pantelis Taverna and swimming from the beach
● Walking around the island to find your own swimming spot
● The sunset from St Nikolas Church on a hill above the village
● The simple pleasure of doing absolutely nothing
● Watching the occasional yacht anchor in the bay
The Reality Check: Arki is fairly isolated. Ferries don’t come every day, and when the weather is rough, they may not come at all. There’s no ATM, no pharmacy, no shop selling anything beyond basic drinks and snacks at the tavernas. Internet is unreliable. If you need to be connected or comfortable, this is not your island. But if you crave silence and simplicity, there’s nowhere better.
Onward Travel Connection: The Nissos Kalymnos serves Arki, continuing to Patmos and the Dodecanese chain. Book your onward passage before arriving, as ferry days are limited.
🏩 Book Katsavidis Rooms here
🏩 Book Nikolaos Rooms here (phone or email – no online booking)
→ Arki – the Island that Broke my Shoes!
→ Settling into the Rhythm of Arki
→ Farewell Arki and on to Leros
Days 30-34: Leros (Alinda and Agia Marina)
Leros surprised me. I’d been here briefly eighteen years earlier and remembered little beyond catching a ferry from the strange Italian-built port of Lakki. This time I stayed in Alinda, discovered spectacular walks, and found an island with depth and complexity that most visitors miss on their way to busier destinations.
Getting Around: There is an island bus that does a circuit of the main villages
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: The Nefeli Studios is a good budget option close to the port and Alinda. Tony’s Beach Hotel in Vromolithos Bay is very popular with my clients. For something a bit more upmarket you can’t go wrong with Archontiko Angelou and Mariannas beautifully restored mansion house (see link to post below)
Where to Eat: I liked O Kavos Tou Vasili – good Greek staples and free flowing wine!
Don’t Miss:
● A walk to the kastro and windmills for the views
● Visit art deco Lakki for unusual architecture
● War Museum Tunnel in Lakki
● Commonwealth War Cemetery
● Beaches – Blefoutis, Alina, Pandeli, Vromolithos, Agia Kioura
The Reality Check:
Onward Travel Connection: Ferries connect Leros to Kalymnos (approximately 1.5 hours)
🏩Book Tony’s Beach Hotel here
🏩 Archontiko Angelou
→ From Alinda’s Hills to Lakki’s Italian Streets: A Day of Walking, Buses & Beaches on Leros
→ A Dawn Walk to Leros’ Windmills: Alinda to Platanos and Pandeli, Plus a Farewell Visit to Archontiko Angelou
Days 35-40: Kalymnos (Myrties)
Kalymnos is known worldwide as a rock-climbing destination, but I came for the views of Telendos, the sunset from Myrties beach, and the warmth of welcome at Nefeli Studios. This was my base for the final week of the journey, a place to recover from weeks of island-hopping and simply be still.
Getting Around: Kalymnos has a good bus service connecting Pothia (the main port and capital), Myrties, Massouri, and other villages. Taxis are available. From Myrties, small boats shuttle constantly across to the car-free island of Telendos (approximately 10 minutes, a few euros).
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Nefeli Studios in Myrties offers exceptional hospitality from owners Apostilis, Stratis and family. The studios are comfortable with kitchen facilities and balconies. The welcome was so warm that upon departure, I was given a small gift to remember them by. The beach at Myrties is a short walk away, and tavernas are on the doorstep.
Where to Eat: The Smuggler’s Cott in Myrties, just a minute’s walk from Nefeli, serves excellent food with views to Telendos. Try the sweet Romano peppers stuffed with feta followed by beef stifado. Elies Restaurant (at Elies Resort) offers a more upmarket dining experience on the terrace. On Telendos, there are several simple tavernas on the waterfront.
Don’t Miss:
● The boat trip to Telendos and walking around the island
● Sunset from Myrties beach watching families gather on blankets
● The walk to Melitsachas beach and marina
● Pothia, the colourful capital with its sponge-diving heritage
● The view from anywhere along the Myrties-Massouri coast to Telendos
Day Trips from Myrties: Telendos is unmissable – a car-free island with walking paths, beaches, and tavernas. The boat runs constantly through the day. Pothia deserves a half-day for its harbour atmosphere and history. The climbing crags attract visitors from around the world if you want to watch the action.
The Reality Check: Myrties and Massouri are definitely “tourist villages” with souvenir shops and climbing gear stores. The beaches are small and can be crowded in season. Kalymnos is more developed than the smaller islands on this route, which can come as a shock after Arki or Agathonisi. But the views to Telendos remain magical regardless.
Onward Travel Connection: The Kalymnos Dolphin runs frequently from Pothia to Mastichari on Kos (approximately 30 minutes). From Kos, there are international flight connections from Kos Airport. Ferries also continue south to Nisyros, Tilos, Symi, and Rhodes.
→ From Pothia to Myrties: Settling In at the Nefeli Hotel and Watching the Sunset Over Telendos
→ A Morning on Telendos: Water Taxi from Myrties, Wandering the Alleys & Sunset Back Across the Bay
→ Exploring Kalymnos by Bus: Morning in Chorio, A Full Day in Emporios and a Sunset Return via Telendos
→ Read about final days on Kalymnos
Days 41-42: Kos (Mastichari) and Home
By this point in the journey, homesickness had set in. six weeks of solo travel is wonderful but exhausting, and I made the decision to cut my trip short. Mastichari on Kos served as my final overnight before the flight home – a functional rather than scenic stop, but one that served its purpose.
Getting There: The Kalymnos Dolphin runs from Pothia (Kalymnos) to Mastichari (Kos) in approximately 30 minutes. The boat arrives at a small harbour with direct access to the village.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Ilios and Irene offers a warm welcome and spacious apartments. The staff invited me to have a pastry and tea while my room was being prepared. The accommodation is comfortable and convenient for an early departure to the airport. The rear patio overlooks peaceful fields.
The Reality Check: Mastichari isn’t the prettiest town. It’s functional, with a selection of harbour-front tavernas and a beach, but it lacks the character of the smaller islands. However, as a gateway between Kalymnos and Kos Airport, it works well.
Getting Home: Kos Airport (KGS) has international flight connections to various European cities. From Mastichari, the airport is approximately 5km by taxi.
→ From Kalymnos to Kos: Beach Days, a Misty Farewell and a Festival Night in Mastichari
Is This Trip Right for You?
This itinerary is perfect if you:
- Crave authentic, unspoiled Greek islands away from the tourist mainstream
- Are comfortable with your own company for extended periods
- Enjoy walking as your primary mode of exploration
- Can adapt to ferry schedules and limited connections
- Appreciate simple accommodation over luxury facilities
- Value genuine local welcome over polished service
- Want to experience islands with fewer than 200 inhabitants
- Are happy to eat what’s available rather than demanding choice
- Can manage without reliable wifi or phone signal
- Find peace in silence and solitude
Practical Information
Budget Notes: Simple accommodation on the small islands typically costs €30-40 per night (2019). Meals at local tavernas average €10-15 including wine. Ferry tickets vary but budget approximately €15-25 per crossing on the small ferries. The Dodekanisos Express is more expensive but faster. Overall, this is a budget-friendly route as there’s simply nowhere to spend money on the tiny islands.
Booking Ahead: On islands like Arki and Agathonisi with limited accommodation, booking ahead is essential. The taverna-rooms often have direct phone numbers or can be reached through ferry agencies on Patmos. For larger islands like Kalymnos and Ikaria, more options exist but July-August still requires advance booking.
Ferry Tips: The conventional ferries are the workhorses of the small island routes. They’re slower but more stable than the Dodekanisos Express in rough weather. Track ferries live on MarineTraffic app. Check Ferryhopper or ANES Ferries for schedules, but always confirm locally as timings change. The smaller the island, the fewer the ferry days.
Disclaimer: This itinerary is based on my trip in June-August 2019. Ferry schedules, accommodation options, and prices will have changed since then. Always check current information before travelling, and be prepared for the unexpected. That flexibility is part of the adventure.
Final Thoughts
There’s a Greek word, “meraki,” that describes doing something with soul, creativity, and love. This journey had meraki at every turn: in Eleni’s welcome at Mary’s Rooms, in Nikolas bringing me to Arki’s tiny harbour, in Apostilis’s parting gift on Kalymnos. These aren’t transactions but connections.
I came to Greece for my sixtieth birthday, alone because family life had other plans. What I found was a reminder of why I fell in love with these islands decades ago. The ferries still sail, the tavernas still serve, the beaches still sparkle. But increasingly, it’s the tiny places that hold the magic: the islands where forty-four people constitute a community, where the arrival of the weekly supply boat is still an event, where goats outnumber tourists by a factor of ten.
Sitting on Nikolas’s terrace watching the sunset over Marathi. Walking through olive groves to Lakki’s strange Italian cinema. Floating in the crystal water of Kambi beach on Fourni. These are the moments that stay.
Next time, I’ll return to Arki. Or maybe find somewhere even smaller. That’s the thing about Greece – there’s always another island, another ferry, another welcome. You just have to be willing to go where the boats take you.
If you’d like to see how this journey unfolds, follow the ‘next’ button below.
