Nea Kios is an eight-kilometre taxi ride from Nafplio sitting at the tip of the Argolic Gulf. But with any place beginning with Nea, there is always a back story. This one leads to a small museum that few people know exists, a square full of quiet symbolism, and a story about what happens when an entire community is forced to start again somewhere new.
There is something reassuring about a KTEL Argolida timetable. Clear, very specific, and somehow always full of confidence. The bus from Kranidi would connect at Epidaurus, deliver me to Nafplio by 13.26, and say nothing whatsoever about the forty-two gold steps waiting at the other end. This is Nafplio approached slowly, by bus, on foot, and along a railway line that no longer runs.
Ermioni is a small harbour town on the eastern Peloponnese, often overlooked in favour of nearby islands like Hydra and Spetses. But this working town, set on a narrow peninsula with two contrasting harbours, offers something different — a slower pace, a sense of place, and easy access to both the mainland and the Saronic islands. After leaving Spetses, I spent two nights in Ermioni to see what lay beyond the obvious — and found far more than expected.
Spetses challenged my expectations. What I assumed might be a polished and upmarket Greek island turned out to be far more balanced, with character, culture and a sense of authenticity that is easy to miss at first glance. Visiting in October, I extended my stay, explored the architecture of Spetses Town, navigated a few mixed dining experiences, and discovered an island shaped as much by history as by reinvention. This is my honest review of Spetses, and why it left a lasting impression.
Exploring Büyükada and its Greek connections, from churches and monasteries to old wooden houses that reflect the island’s past.
The Dance of Zalongo had been on my list for years. Getting there involved 410 steps, a long-standing battle with vertigo and a friend who would have called me something unrepeatable if I had tried to back out. What happened at the top was not what I had prepared myself for. Not the climb, not the monument, and certainly not the moment when two people began to sing.
