Oil wrestling isn’t what comes to mind when you think of Greece; but at Sochos, it’s a centuries-old tradition, and one wrapped in genuine controversy. Greeks and Turks alike fiercely claim it as their own. The real history, it turns out, runs back through ancient Egypt, Persia and the Seljuks, and is far too tangled for either side to own outright.
This is the final post of a two-month journey that took me from Istanbul to Athens via the Sea of Marmara, the Turkish Aegean coast, several Greek islands and the Peloponnese. It was not planned in any conventional sense. It started with my aunt Janet, who wanted to visit Constantinople. It ended, as these things sometimes do, somewhere else entirely.
A slow, sun-soaked day on Bozcaada with a breakfast feast, a curious little monastery, the golden sands of Ayazma Beach and a relaxed wander through the village.
A travel diary of the Çanakkale to Bozcaada ferry journey: buses, crossing, castle & village lanes on the Turkish-Aegean island that echoes Greece.
A walk through Çanakkale’s old town and harbour leads to a short ferry crossing to Kilitbahir, where Ottoman forts and Gallipoli memorials line the Dardanelles.
This post continues a visit to Ancient Troy, moving beyond the Trojan Horse to explore the archaeological site and its many layers of history. It forms part of a wider journey across the Aegean.
A visit to Agia Sophia in Istanbul, exploring its Byzantine past, layered history and enduring Greek connections.
An 8 week trip – Istanbul to Athens itinerary following a real route across the Aegean by ferry and bus, with practical detail and key stops along the way.
With 7 crossings between Meganisi and Nidri running from early doors until 1830 every day, we had time to go and visit Vathy before leaving for Lefkada. I messaged our host and asked if it would be OK to leave our cases in the apartment and he replied in the affirmative. If they should get…
Before returning to the apartment to pack, we collared a taxi driver in Vathy’s main square and arranged for him to take us to the port the following morning. After completing the tedious deed of re-packing, we sat on the balcony soaking up the view over Vathy for one last time. Tonight, the town was…
Today we have arranged a tour of the north of the island booked with Ithaca Travel. After grabbing a bougatsa from the bakery, we made our way to the office to wait for our guide. Stefania looked a little flustered that morning. It was almost like she’d forgotten we’d booked a tour, even though it…
Sunday announced itself with the pealing of bells from across the bay. As soon as a set of chimes from one church ended, another from another direction began. I’d already lost track of the days, but now there was no mistake that the day of worship had arrived. The warm egg-yolk yellow light from the…
