Six nights in Nafpaktos meant time to properly test the restaurants, from a stand-out meal at Captain Cook to a disappointing one at Kouzina Loi, plus a room with a view at Pepo’s Guesthouse and the two very different beaches either side of the harbour.
Nafpaktos has answered to several names over the centuries, and its kastro shows why. A walk from Botsaris Tower to the Sideroporta and beyond uncovers Byzantine walls, Venetian bastions and Ottoman fountains, all stacked on top of each other.
A ferry sprint, an unexpected bus connection, and a return to Patras nine years after volunteering there with a refugee charity. Zakynthos to Patras isn’t glamorous, but it comes with forts, a windy crossing to Antirrio, and a sunset at Mare Mare worth chasing down.
