Visiting Patrick Leigh Fermor’s House

Sotiris tells us this morning that he’d received a phone call from Elpida at the Patrick Leigh Fermor Project and we will be able to visit this evening at 4.30.

In the meantime, we walk back to the Old Town.  Today it is open and we are able to purchase a ticket to go inside.  Peter decided to walk to the Church of Agia Sofia whilst I take a stroll down to the beach.

The beach is deserted and quiet which gives me some time for reflection and quiet contemplation.  I had come on this trip with thoughts of making big changes when I returned.  I had become utterly miserable at work.  This had been a job that I had loved and been completely passionate about but it was now becoming more and more difficult to face it every day.  I had thought long and hard about this.  Leaving a job that offered a certain level of security is a big decision – but you can’t put a cost on happiness.  I had decided to make a decision whilst on this trip so I was imagining what it must be like to just hand in my letter of resignation without another job to go to.  It was also very motivational speaking to people like Dave and Jill who had given it all up to follow their dreams so surely my decision is very small in comparison.

I read a little (Freedom Seeker by Beth Kempton), dip my toes in the freezing water and just sit and feel the sun on my skin and the smell the orange blossom on the trees.

Later that afternoon we get ready to visit Patrick Leigh Fermor House.

It is possible to walk there from Kardamyli village but Sotiris insists on driving us.  Apparently we will need to take the road out of Kardamyli and look for a rubbish dumpster on the roadside – here we turn right and we will find the house on our right.

Sotiris waits until we find Elpida and then heads back, telling us he will collect us at 7.00pm.  Gradually a small group arrives and in total we are about 10 people.

The house and the grounds are just wonderful.  This is pre-renovation and it is a shame to see the window shutters hanging off their hinges.  However, it is clear to see that the property has been cared for and maintained.  It is clear to see what a perfect retreat this house once was for Patrick and Joan Leigh Fermor.

From the terrace a set of stone steps take you down to a private beach.  We also note the Moroccan style lanterns adoring the covered terrace – apparently brought back from his travels.

Elpida takes us around the property and telling us stories about the great adventurer and writer.  It isn’t difficult to imagine the parties and the entertaining that went on here.  Elpida points tells us to look on the back of one of the bedroom doors where we see a collection of Joan Leigh Fermors photographs.

We have really enjoyed this tour of the house.  It finishes earlier than expected so we ask Elpida to phone Sotiris to tell him that we will walk back to Kardamyli.

From the house we walk through an olive grove with a mat of spring flowers, a small chapel and grazing sheep.  Before long we are back on the road and overlooking the bay.

As we are passing we decide to eat at Taverna Dioskouri.  Great food, wonderful hospitality and a spectacular view!

We finish our last night in Kardamyli watching the sun set and listening to the Easter Thursday service from outside of the village church.

Our visit here has been much too short.  Tomorrow we depart for Tyros for the Easter celebrations.




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