Western Cyclades Island Hopping: 2 Weeks on Kea, Kythnos, Serifos & Sifnos
This 2-week Western Cyclades itinerary covers Kea, Kythnos, Serifos and Sifnos by ferry from Lavrio. Best time: May-June or September. Highlights: the ancient Lion of Kea, underground caves on Kythnos, one of the Cyclades’ prettiest Choras on Serifos, and Sifnos—a top-five Greek island. No car rental needed.
Forget Santorini and Mykonos. The Western Cyclades offer everything that made the Greek islands famous—whitewashed villages, stunning beaches, warm hospitality—without the crowds. These four islands sit on the same ferry route from Lavrio, making them perfect for a leisurely island-hopping adventure.
From the ancient stone lion carved into a Kea hillside to the underground caves of Kythnos, from Serifos’s dramatic hilltop Chora to the gastronomic delights of Sifnos, this route delivers the authentic Cycladic experience. The pace is slower, the tavernas are local, and you’ll often find yourself the only foreigner on the beach.
What Makes This Itinerary Special
The Real Cyclades Experience
While the eastern Cyclades battle overtourism, these western islands remain refreshingly authentic. Tavernas still serve Greek families rather than Instagram influencers. Accommodation is family-run and reasonably priced. The rhythm of island life continues as it has for generations.
One Ferry Line, Four Islands
All four islands sit on the same Lavrio ferry route, making connections straightforward. No backtracking to Piraeus, no complicated logistics—just hop from one island to the next as the ferry makes its way through the chain.
Ancient Mysteries and Underground Wonders
The Lion of Kea has watched over the island for 2,600 years—one of Greece’s oldest monumental sculptures. The Katafyki Caves on Kythnos descend into the hillside like something from mythology. History here isn’t behind museum glass; it’s carved into the landscape.
Hilltop Villages That Define the Cyclades
Serifos’s Chora is one of the most dramatic in the Cyclades—a cascade of white houses tumbling down a steep hillside. Sifnos’s Kastro perches on a cliff edge with views that demand long afternoons in clifftop cafés. These villages reward those who climb.
A Culinary Destination
Sifnos is renowned throughout Greece for its cuisine. The island’s pottery tradition produced the clay pots essential for slow-cooked dishes, and the food culture remains exceptional. This is where Athenians come to eat well.
Designed for Public Transport
Ferries connect the islands. Local buses link ports to villages. Taxis fill the gaps. The islands are small enough to explore on foot once you’ve arrived. No rental car required.
The Route at a Glance
Route: Athens → Lavrio → Kea → Kythnos → Serifos → Sifnos → Lavrio → Athens
Duration: 2 weeks (May 2014)
Transport: Ferries from Lavrio, local buses, taxis, walking
Best Time: May-June or September for warm weather, fewer crowds, and full ferry schedules. July-August is busy with Greek holidaymakers.
Who It’s For: Island lovers seeking authentic Greece, walkers and hikers, food enthusiasts, those who prefer character over convenience
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Island-by-Island Itinerary
Day 1: Athens to Kea
The journey begins not at Piraeus but at Lavrio—the small port on Attica’s eastern coast that serves as the gateway to the Western Cyclades. The crossing to Kea takes about an hour, depositing you at Korissia, the island’s port village.
Getting There: Bus from Athens Airport to Markopoulo, change to Lavrio bus. Ferry from Lavrio to Kea (approximately 1 hour).
→ Arrival at Athens and Lavrio to Kea
Days 1-3: Kea
Kea feels like a secret kept by Athenians—close enough for weekend escapes, far enough to remain unspoiled. The port of Korissia gives way to the pretty fishing village of Vourkari, where yachts bob in a sheltered bay and tavernas line the waterfront. But the real treasures require walking: the ancient Lion of Kea, carved into a hillside 2,600 years ago, and the lighthouse walk around the bay as sunset paints the sea gold.
Getting Around: Taxi to Ioulida (the capital, 8km inland). Walking for coastal explorations.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: United Europe Hotel, Korissia – Budget-friendly, basic but clean, with kitchenette and balcony overlooking lemon trees. George, Birgitte and Despina are wonderful hosts.
Where to Eat: To Kalofagadon in Ioulida’s town square—highly recommended.
Don’t Miss: The Lion of Kea (1.5km walk from Ioulida—take the right fork!), the lighthouse walk from Korissia to Agios Nikolaos via Vourkari, the prehistoric site of Agia Irini, Ioulida’s winding streets.
The Reality Check: Public transport was limited in May—taxis fill the gap. The walk to the Lion can be confusing; take the right fork or face nettles and thistles on the longer route.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry from Kea to Kythnos.
→ Kea – A Walk out to Agios Nikolaos Lighthouse and a Beautiful Sunset
→ Kea – In Search of the Lion
Days 4-7: Kythnos
Kythnos is the quiet one—the island that ferry passengers skip on their way to somewhere more famous. Their loss. The Chora (also called Messaria) is a pretty little Cycladic village with painted pots in alleyways and the kind of boho cafés where time disappears. The real highlight is underground: the Katafyki Caves near Dryopida, some of the most impressive in Greece.
Getting There: Ferry from Kea. Port is Merihas (8km from Chora).
Getting Around: Taxi from port to Chora. Local buses and taxis for explorations.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Filoxenia Studios, Chora – Highly recommended. Run by Katerina, who arranges taxis and goes above and beyond. Balcony with landscape views.
Where to Eat:
• Gazoza Café Bar – Boho-chic spot on the main street with upcycled pallet seats and local preserved fruits
• To Steki Tou Ntentzi – Popular taverna with Greek salad, caper sauce potatoes, local sausage
Don’t Miss: The Katafyki Caves near Dryopida village, the walk to Panagia Tou Nikous church (spectacular sunset views), wandering the pretty streets of Chora, the cemetery by candlelight.
The Reality Check: The road to Dryopida involves spiralling mountain hairpins. Merihas port is functional rather than charming—stay in Chora.
Onward Travel Connection: Afternoon ferry from Kythnos to Serifos.
→ Kythnos – Dryopida and the Katafyki Caves
→ Last Day on Kythnos and on to Serifos
Days 8-11: Serifos
The ferry rounds the headland and there it is: Serifos Chora, one of the most dramatic hilltop villages in the Cyclades, its white houses cascading down the steep slope like frozen waterfalls. From Livadi port below, it’s a constant presence—drawing your eye upward, demanding the climb. And when you finally reach the top, the views reward every step.
Getting There: Ferry from Kythnos to Serifos
Getting Around: Bus from Livadi to Chora (or walk 2km on the direct path). Local buses to mountain villages.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Serifos Palace, Livadi – Duplex apartment with sea views and exceptional breakfasts. Some of the best we’ve ever had in the Greek islands—cheese pie, cake, bread, jam, cheese, ham. Very reasonable price. Also a favourite with my clients is Vassilia on the Beach
Where to Eat:
• Vassilia Taverna – On Livadakia beach, perfect for Greek salad and pork chops
• Restaurant Gialis – Associated with Serifos Palace, reliable quality
Don’t Miss: The climb to Serifos Chora (one of the prettiest in the Cyclades), Livadakia beach under the tamarisk trees, the bus trip to Kallitsos (Kentarchos) on harrowing hairpin bends with breathtaking views, exploring Lower Chora below the main square.
The Reality Check: Very windy in early May—pack layers and be prepared. The Chora is beautiful but less boutique-developed than Folegandros.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry from Serifos to Sifnos
🏩 Book Serifos Palace here
🏩 Book Vassilia on the Beach here
→ Serifos – Exploring Livadakia and the Chora
→ Serifos – Another Windy Day in the Chora
→ Serifos – Last Day and on to Sifnos
Days 12-14: Sifnos
Sifnos captured my heart so completely that it earned a place in my top five Greek islands. There’s a vibe here—something in the light, the food, the warmth of the welcome—that sets it apart. The capital Apollonia buzzes gently with life. The ancient Kastro perches dramatically on its cliff. And the island’s culinary reputation (pottery and slow-cooked food go hand in hand) means every meal becomes memorable.
Getting There: Ferry from Serifos. Port is Kamares.
Getting Around: Bus from Kamares through Artemonas to Apollonia (the main hub where all routes depart). Local buses to villages—note limited schedules.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Pension Morfeus, Apollonia – Recommended via Matt Barrett’s Facebook Group. Exceptional hospitality from Kostas (who picked us up from the port) and Maria (who greeted us with juice, biscuits, whisky, and coffee). This is Greek hospitality at its finest.
Where to Eat:
• Oraia Sifnos – Courtyard dining with vine-covered pergola and sunset mountain views
• Alexandros Vassilias – Tzatziki and oven-roasted potatoes
• Hotel Anthousa Patisserie – Breakfast in Apollonia
• Look for gemista (stuffed tomatoes) and goat dishes—island specialities
Don’t Miss: Apollonia’s winding streets and jewellery shops, the walk from Apollonia to Artemonas (pretty squares, bakeries, pottery chimney pots, a windmill), the Kastro (clifftop village with Café Konaki’s spectacular views), the Church of the Seven Martyrs (visible from Kastro), a round trip to Hironissos (bus runs twice daily).
The Reality Check: The walk to Kastro through farmland can be confusing—the bus is easier. There’s a 2-hour wait between buses at Kastro, but Café Konaki makes it worthwhile. Watch for snakes on overgrown paths.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry from Kamares back to Lavrio, then bus to Athens.
→ Sifnos – Exploring Apollonia and Beyond
→ Sifnos – Visit to the Kastro
→ Last Day on Sifnos
Budget
I didn’t do a costing on this itinerary and it wouldn’t be relevant to today’s prices anyway. However, this trip was done as a budget holiday staying in small family run accommodations and using public transport to get around.
Is This Trip Right for You?
This itinerary is perfect if you:
• Want the authentic Cyclades experience without the crowds
• Enjoy walking and exploring on foot
• Appreciate good food and local tavernas over resort dining
• Are comfortable with limited public transport and relaxed schedules
• Prefer family-run guesthouses over boutique hotels
• Love hilltop villages and dramatic landscapes
Think twice if you:
• Want nightlife and tourist infrastructure (you’ll find a bit of that if you look for it)
• Need pristine sandy beaches with loungers and umbrellas
• Prefer more developed islands with English-language services
• Are uncomfortable with occasional transport challenges
• Want to tick off famous-name islands
Final Thoughts
Two weeks. Four islands. One perfect introduction to the Cyclades as they should be experienced.
The Western Cyclades taught me that the best Greek islands aren’t necessarily the famous ones. Kea’s ancient lion, Kythnos’s underground caves, Serifos’s stunning Chora, Sifnos’s warmth and wonderful food—these islands delivered experiences that the crowded eastern Cyclades simply cannot match.
Sifnos, in particular, earned its place among my favourite islands in all of Greece. There was a full moon on my last night, casting silver light across the rooftops of Apollonia. I sat in a tiny square with a glass of wine and thought about how some places just fit—how the combination of light and landscape and hospitality creates something you want to return to.
The ferry from Lavrio makes this route accessible without the chaos of Piraeus. The islands reward those who take their time. And the memories—of lion hunts and cave explorations, of hilltop villages and sunset tavernas—stay long after the tan has faded.
Would I return? Absolutely. To all of them, given the chance. The Western Cyclades were once Greece’s best-kept secret—and visit before it all changes.
