So off to Fat Jimmy’s I go. A nice traditional taverna down by the marina just a short walk from Hotel Lesvion. No matter how many years I’ve been travelling to Greece I’ve never got into the swing of eating late. I arrive at Fat Jimmy’s taverna shortly after 7pm. It’s already dark, it’s a Saturday night and there are a lot of people about. Not in Fat Jimmy’s though. For a moment I wasn’t sure if they were yet open but the man assures me that they are. The menu is vast and written in Greek, Turkish and English. I’m absolutely spoilt for choice. I’ve also decided that tonight is the night to try real Lesvian ouzo – it would be rude not to! The conditions are perfect – only a short walk (or stagger) back to the hotel!
Ouzo is purchased only by the bottle. Although I love ouzo and raki etc I’m not really a spirit drinker and I’m definitely not an ouzo officionado. I order just a small bottle not really knowing which is the best one to buy. I just point to one on the menu and wait with anticipation to see what I get. To eat, I order horta and skordalia and also that very Greek dish chicken schnitzel! 😂
The ouzo comes to the table first with a small bucket of ice and a branded ouzo glass. My intention is to have a small glass of ouzo and leave the rest – it’s cheap enough. But anyway – you never know!
Shortly after the horta and skordalia arrives, the taverna begins to fill up a bit more. At the table next to me a couple of Turkish guys take their seats. The waiter speaks to them in Turkish and they order their food and a small bottle of ouzo between the two of them. Hmmm!
Soon a woman and a man carrying a bazouki arrive and begin to set up their equipment. Yay! Some entertainment! They are later joined by aother man with a guitar. The taverna is now about half full and we wait in anticipation.
The music begins. Firstly the main man plucking his bazouki joined by the man strumming his guitar. The lady joins them for the second song and her voice is amazing. The night really gets going after a couple of songs full of ‘agapi mou’s’ and ‘sagapo’s’. The two Turkish guys on the next table are really getting into it, throwing their arms into the air and clapping spontaniously. Watching them is as good as watching the musicians.
At this point I find myself in a bit of a dilemma. I’ve finished my meal but still want to stay to watch the musicians. It is now about 9.00pm and even after just a little bit of ouzo I think that I would like to make a night of this. I’m left with not choice but to stretch out the rest of the bottle of ouzo until it’s time to go! There is still enough ice to dilute it down a bit. It definitely starts going to my head!
I do a couple of Facebook lives but like a divvy I don’t film the musicians in landscape mode. Sorry for the peculiar orientation. Here the night is really beginning to get going. The place filled up and there is even some impromptu dancing! I could have got a better view for the video but I just loved observing the two guys on the table in front!
I stagger out at around midnight!
Well I’m definitely feeling a bit worse for wear this morning. I’m not used to late nights and I feel a little fragile around the edges. I manage to prise myself out of bed for breakfast (not even a hangover could keep me away from the wonderful offering they put on every day).
I do manage to eat a little bit of breakfast but I’m struggling. I return to my room and try and recover with a bit more sleep.
Around lunchtime I feel fit enough to surface. It’s Sunday and I want to take that walk down Ermou Street on my graffiti art hunt. There are two landmarks on Ermou that are worth a visit. The first is the 19th century Yeni Mosque which you can’t fail to miss when walking in this area. I had read that it now serves as an exhibition centre though there were no signs of any exhibitions when I was there. It’s a really beautiful building.
The next building of note is the magnificent church of Agios Therapon. It sits in pride of place on the harbour front skyline but from Ermou you can see the church up close including some of its wonderful architectural detail.
Now onto the graffiti trail. It’s everywhere on Ermou and the surrounding streets. It’s Sunday and the streets are quiet and it’s easy to spot the works of art. There are two types of graffiti. The first type is considered artwork used to decorate the frontage of business.
The other type of graffiti is also considered. Some are beautiful works of art and others have more of a political message. Not everyone will consider graffiti as an art form but I’m really drawn to the colourful patina and interesting textures. I’m also interested in the messages and the sentiment behind the words. A thought translated into words in a moment in time. Graffiti has been with us since time immomorial and I don’t think it is going anywhere anytime soon. Graffiti artist @muckrock has made her mark all over town!
I’ve been walking for hours and return to the hotel for some refreshment in the hotel bar and cafe. An apple pie has just been freshly baked and this sugar boost is exactly what I need, washed down with a hot cup of tea. It is early evening and from the terrace of the hotel I can hear drums. I suddently remember that the army has arrived at the square to lower the flag – a ceremony that’s conducted every Sunday. By the time I’ve paid for my pie and tea and rushed down to the square, the ceremony is over. The soldiers are packing up and heading back to base. Oh well!
I head back to my room and begin to pack. Tomorrow I will catch the bus to Molyvos where I will stay for 7 days. Once organised I head off for somewhere to eat and tonight I’m returning to the scene of the crime – Fat Jimmy’s! No I’m not a glutton for punishment. The taverna is very quiet and I stay well clear of the ouzo!