Easter in the Peloponnese & Saronic Islands: Kardamyli to Athens by Bus
This 16-day Peloponnese and Saronic Islands itinerary covers Kardamyli, Tyros, Nafplio, Poros, Aegina, Agistri and Athens by bus and ferry. Best time: April for Easter celebrations. Highlights: Patrick Leigh Fermor’s house, Easter festivities with burning Judas effigies and paper lanterns, Epidaurus ancient theatre, the Temple of Aphaia, and pistachios everywhere. No car rental needed.
Note: This trip took place in April 2017. While the destinations remain as beautiful as ever, specific prices, bus schedules, and some accommodation details may have changed. The KTEL bus network continues to serve the Peloponnese excellently—check current timetables before travelling.
When people tell you that you need a car to explore the Peloponnese, they’re wrong. This trip proved it. From the literary heritage of Kardamyli to the theatrical acoustics of Epidaurus, from Easter fireworks in Tyros to pistachio vendors on Aegina, the KTEL buses delivered us everywhere we wanted to go. Sometimes the journey took longer than driving. Always, it showed us more.
The timing was deliberate. Easter in a small Peloponnese village promised something authentic—and Tyros delivered beyond our hopes. The burning of Judas, the paper lanterns floating on the Myrtoan Sea, the smell of lamb on spits filling the spring air—these aren’t experiences you can manufacture.
What Makes This Itinerary Special
A Public Transport Adventure
This entire journey—from Athens through the Peloponnese to the Saronic Islands and back—was completed using KTEL buses and ferries. The Peloponnese has an excellent bus network that most tourists overlook. Watching local women board with shopping bags at mountain villages, connecting with fellow travellers at Tripoli bus station, asking drivers for advice—these are the moments that make bus travel richer than rental cars.
Easter in an Authentic Village
Tyros is famous among Greeks for its Easter celebrations but remains unknown to international tourists. The Good Friday procession along the 2-kilometre bay, Saturday night’s spectacular burning of Judas with fireworks over the sea, Sunday’s community feast at Agia Marina church—this is Easter as families have celebrated it for generations.
Literary Pilgrimage to the Mani
Patrick Leigh Fermor chose Kardamyli for a reason. The Taygetus mountains rising snow-capped above, the scent of jasmine and ripening figs, the Old Town’s tower houses—the Mani captures something essential about Greece. Visiting his house (now managed by the Benaki Museum) connects you to a literary tradition stretching back to Homer, who mentioned Kardamyli in the Iliad.
Nafplio: Greece’s First Capital
Before Athens became the capital, Nafplio held that honour. The Venetian fortress, the neoclassical architecture, the coastal walk to Arvanitia Beach—this is one of Greece’s most elegant towns. And it’s perfectly positioned for day trips to Epidaurus, Tiryns, and the Argolic Gulf.
The Saronic Gateway
Poros and Aegina sit close enough to Athens for weekend crowds but offer genuine island character. Poros—my first Greek island 24 years earlier—still charmed. Aegina delivered ancient temples, pistachio groves, and the perfect day trip to tiny Agistri. These islands make the transition from mainland to sea effortless.
Spring Flowers and Perfect Temperatures
April in Greece means wild flowers carpeting hillsides, orange blossoms perfuming the air, and temperatures perfect for walking. The villages felt genuinely alive—not yet tourist season but no longer winter quiet. Spring travel in Greece offers the best of both worlds.
The Route at a Glance
Route: Athens → Kardamyli → Tyros → Nafplio → Poros → Aegina (with day trip to Agistri) → Athens
Duration: 16 days (April 2017, including Easter)
Transport: KTEL buses throughout Peloponnese, small ferry Galatas-Poros, Apollon Hellas and other ferries between Saronic islands, ferry Aegina-Piraeus
Best Time: April for Easter (check Orthodox calendar—dates vary). Spring offers perfect walking weather, wild flowers, and orange blossoms throughout.
Who It’s For: Those who want to prove the Peloponnese is accessible without a car, travellers seeking authentic Easter celebrations, literary pilgrims following Patrick Leigh Fermor, anyone who appreciates slow travel and local connections
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Destination-by-Destination Itinerary
Days 1-4: Kardamyli, The Mani
The bus from Athens to Kalamata flew over the Corinth Canal in seconds—I was prepared with camera ready. The journey continued through rolling Peloponnese landscape, olive groves stretching beyond sight, snow-capped mountains in the distance. At Kalamata, we changed buses for the final hour to Kardamyli, watching women board laden with shopping bags at mountain villages along the way.
Kardamyli announces itself through scent. Lemon blossom, jasmine, ripening figs—wherever I smell these, I’m transported back. The village sits at the foot of the Taygetus mountains, the range still snow-capped in April. One main street of artisan shops and cafés; side alleys offering mountain vistas or sea views. No pretension, just beauty.
Sotiris from Katerina’s Studios became our guide, arranger, and friend. He organised our visit to Patrick Leigh Fermor’s house (book through the Benaki Museum), drove us to Kalamata when Easter disrupted bus services, and presented us with olive oil from their harvest when we left. Greek hospitality at its finest. The Old Town—Ano Kardamyli—revealed tower houses from the Mourtzinos clan, the church of Agios Spyridon, views across the olive groves to the sea. The Kardamyli Bead Shop, run by expats Dave and Jill, offered handmade komboloi and good conversation.
Getting There: The simplest way to start this journey would be to fly to Kalamata. Whilst deciding where to spend Easter, I’d already purchased tickets to Athens. The bus journey was no hardship. It gave me my first taste of the beautiful Peloponnese landscape, which from then on was to remain a piece of my heart.
Getting Around: Walking. The village is compact. Buses connect to Kalamata, Stoupa and further into the Mani, though services reduce on holidays.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Katerina’s Studios – Charming rooms designed by Sotiris himself, balcony views over olive groves to the sea, fresh eggs from Katerina’s chickens, 2 minutes to beach and shops. The hospitality alone is worth the visit.
Where to Eat:
• Taverna Gialos – Right on the beach, watch the sunset over your first meal
• Siros – By the sea with complimentary spoon sweets and revani cake
• Kritamos – Across from the town hall, good for coffee and conversation
Don’t Miss: Patrick Leigh Fermor’s house (book ahead via Benaki Museum), Ano Kardamyli Old Town and the Mourtzinos Tower, the beach walk through olive groves, sunset at Taverna Gialos, simply breathing the jasmine-scented air.
The Reality Check: Bus services reduce significantly on Greek holidays—check timetables carefully if travelling around Easter. The Deep Mani (Vathia) requires either taxi or car from Kardamyli.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus to Kalamata, then bus to Tripoli, then connecting bus to Tyros. On Good Friday, Sotiris drove us to Kalamata as no buses ran. (When enquiring about Tyros make sure it isn’t confused with nearby Dyros!)
🚌KTEL Messinias Bus Service
→ Peloponnese Landscape and Arrival in Kardamyli
→ Exploring Kardamyli and Making Connections
→ Exploring Kardamyli Old Town
→ Visiting Patrick Leigh Fermor’s House
Days 5-8: Tyros (Tiros), Arcadia – Easter Celebrations
Getting to Tyros on Good Friday required determination. The bus journey via Tripoli delivered us to a 2-kilometre bay already preparing for Easter. Bamboo torches planted in sand. Oranges hollowed out into candle holders. Effigies of Judas waiting for their fate.
Good Friday’s Epitaphios procession was solemn and beautiful—the decorated bier carried from the church, mourning bells tolling, fishing boats escorting from the sea. Saturday night transformed the village. At midnight, the light was carried from church to harbour. Paper lanterns launched onto the sea. Judas burned on a pontoon while fireworks exploded overhead. This was Easter as spectacle, as community, as something deeply felt.
Easter Sunday brought the village festival at Agia Marina church—traditional costumes, spit-roasted lamb, baskets of bread and Easter biscuits shared with everyone, dancing until late. We were welcomed as honoured guests, though we’d arrived as strangers.
Spring flowers covered the hillsides above the village. Orange blossoms perfumed every walk. The windmill at the bay’s end became a daily destination. This is the Greece that tourism hasn’t touched.
Getting Around: Walking. The village stretches along a 2-kilometre bay—easy to explore on foot.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Paraskevas Hotel – Budget accommodation on the northern end of the bay. Basic but clean with harbour views. Staff helpful with Easter information.
Where to Eat:
• To Akrogialis – Recommended by locals, good for pre-procession dinner
• Village restaurants above the harbour – Walk up the hill for views and authentic food
Don’t Miss: Easter celebrations (if timing allows), the Good Friday Epitaphios procession, Saturday night’s burning of Judas with fireworks and paper lanterns, Sunday’s village festival at Agia Marina, walking to the windmill at the bay’s end, Tigani Beach, the mountain villages above the harbour.
The Reality Check: Tyros is a wonderful experience at Easter—at other times it may feel very quiet. The hotel was basic; expect budget accommodation rather than luxury. Bus services reduce during holidays.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus from Tyros to Nafplio. Check Easter timetables carefully.
🚌KTEL Messinias Bus Service
🏩 Book Tyros hotels here
→ Trying to Get to Tyros by Bus on Good Friday!
→ Exploring Tyros Village – and Christos Anesti!
→ Leaving Tyros and on to Nafplio
Days 9-11: Nafplio
Nafplio feels different from other Greek towns. The neoclassical architecture, the Venetian fortress looming above, the elegant promenades—this was Greece’s first capital, and it remembers.
Epidaurus demanded a day trip. The ancient theatre’s acoustics remain astonishing—a coin dropped on the stage audible from the highest seats. Meeting Magnus, long-term Hong Kong ex pat, who discovered that we both had a friend in common (weird things happen in Greece). The full moon over Nafplio, evening strolls through the old town, the fortress lit against the night sky—some places just work.
Getting There: KTEL bus from Tyros. Regular services from Athens and throughout the Argolic region.
Getting Around: Walking for the town. KTEL buses for day trips to Epidaurus, Tiryns, and other sites.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: King Othon or its sister hotel Victoria – Central location, good breakfast served at Victoria. Classic Nafplio elegance.
Don’t Miss: The coastal walk to Arvanitia Beach, Epidaurus ancient theatre (day trip by bus), the Akronafplia fortress walk, evening strolls through the old town, the view of Bourtzi fortress from the harbour.
The Reality Check: Nafplio is popular—book accommodation ahead in peak season. The fortress climb involves many steps. Summer can be hot for walking.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus to Galatas, then small ferry to Poros (just minutes across the channel).
🏩 Book the King Othon Hotel here
→ Re-Discovering Nafplio and a Coastal Walk to Arvanitia Beach
→ A Whirlwind Tour of Nafplio, Tiryns and Drepano
→ Epidaurus and then on to Poros – and a Strange Coincidence!
→ Akronafplia Fortress Walk and Last Day in Nafplio
→ The Beauty of Nafplio and Reflections on a Journey
Days 12-13: Poros
My first time back in 24 years. Poros was my first Greek island travelled solo—April 1993, discovering that Greece would become a lifelong love. The bus from Nafplio passed the Psifta wetlands where pink flamingos gathered. At Galatas, the ferry crossing to Poros takes minutes.
The island hadn’t changed as much as I’d feared. The clock tower still dominated the view. The amphitheatre of white houses still climbed the hillside. Spring temperatures made the walk to Faros lighthouse along the coastal road a pleasure—passing Love Bay and Russian Bay, grabbing pastries for breakfast.
Twenty-four years previouslu, I’d stayed at Rania’s guesthouse, climbed several hundred steps, met an American artist named Pamela Jane Rogers. Now I was returning with decades of Greek travel behind me, recognising what had made that first trip so formative.
Getting There: Bus from Nafplio to Galatas, then small ferry across the channel to Poros (approximately 5 minutes crossing).
Getting Around: Walk. The island is small but hilly. There is a limited municipal bus service and plenty of taxis – prices are advertised.
Where to Stay: We stayed at the budget Panorama Hotel (very cheap – very steep steps)
Don’t Miss: The walk to Faros lighthouse along the coastal road, Love Bay and Russian Bay, the view from the clock tower hill, simply watching the ferries come and go from a harbour café.
The Reality Check: Poros is close to Athens and popular for weekend trips—avoid summer weekends if you seek tranquillity. Some hills are steep.
Onward Travel Connection: Apollon Hellas ferry to Aegina (scenic journey through the Saronic Gulf).
🏩 Book Poros accommodation here
→ Poros – First Time Back in 24 Years!
→ Further Explorations on Poros
Days 14-15: Aegina (with Day Trip to Agistri)
The Apollon Hellas delivered us to Aegina’s bustling harbour—this island sits close enough to Athens for day trippers, far enough to retain character. Georgios at the Plaza Hotel provided warm welcome and budget accommodation overlooking the fish tavernas.
Aegina revealed layers. The Temple of Aphaia—part of the “sacred triangle” with the Parthenon and Temple of Poseidon at Sounion—offered ancient grandeur and hilltop views. The Monastery of Agios Nektarios drew pilgrims. Perdika village in the south provided escape from the busy port (though the Camera Obscura had sadly fallen into disrepair).
The coastal walk north from the port passed the Temple of Apollo’s lone column, Faros Bouza, and the statue of the Mother. Neoclassical buildings lined the streets; pistachio vendors called from every corner. The island is famous for its pistachios—try them fresh, in ice cream, in baklava.
A day trip to Agistri offered pine-forested tranquility—small enough to feel private, just 20 minutes from Aegina by boat. Perfect beaches, quiet paths, the Greece that weekenders from Athens dream of.
Getting Around: KTEL bus network serves the island well—Temple of Aphaia, Agios Nektarios, Perdika all accessible. Walking around the port town.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Plaza – Budget rooms overlooking the harbour. Georgios provides excellent hospitality. Central location near bus station and ferries.
Don’t Miss: Temple of Aphaia, the Monastery of Agios Nektarios, coastal walk to the Temple of Apollo and beyond, Perdika village, pistachios from street vendors, a day trip to Agistri, evening cocktails at the harbour beach bars.
The Reality Check: Aegina is busy—weekend crowds arrive from Athens. The port area is touristy; venture further for authenticity. Summer brings heat and crowds.
Onward Travel Connection: Ferry from Aegina to Piraeus (approximately 40 minutes), then metro to central Athens.
→ Farewell Poros and onto Aegina with a visit to Angistri (Agistri)
→
Day 16: Athens
The ferry from Aegina to Piraeus delivered us back to the city. Athens always brings mixed feelings—the trip ending, but the capital offering its own rewards. Our final day aimed to cover ground: 27,000 steps and a touch of vertigo.
Mount Lycabettus demanded the climb—the highest point in Athens, 360-degree views, the Acropolis laid out below. The funicular runs for those who prefer it; we walked. After thirty-plus years of visiting Athens, I still find new corners.
Getting There: Ferry from Aegina to Piraeus, then metro Line 1 to central Athens.
Don’t Miss: Mount Lycabettus for the views, whichever neighbourhood or museum you haven’t yet explored. Athens rewards repeat visits.
→ Back to Athens via Piraeus
→ Athens in 27,000 Steps and a Touch of Vertigo!
Is This Trip Right for You?
This itinerary is perfect if you:
• Want to prove the Peloponnese is accessible without a car
• Seek authentic Easter celebrations in a Greek village setting
• Appreciate literary connections and historical layers
• Enjoy slow travel with local connections
• Love spring flowers and perfect walking weather
• Want to combine mainland and island experiences
Think twice if you:
• Need tight schedules and guaranteed connections (buses can be delayed)
• Want to cover maximum ground quickly (a car would be faster)
• Prefer luxury accommodation (this route includes budget options)
• Struggle with bus journeys and ferry crossings
• Need guaranteed English speakers at every turn
• Travel during major holidays without checking transport schedules
Practical Notes on Bus Travel
KTEL buses connect most towns in the Peloponnese. Key tips from this journey:
• Athens departures leave from Kiffissou Bus Station (taxi from central Athens costs approximately €8)
• Buy tickets at the kiosk for your destination
• Express buses are faster; standard buses make village stops
• Google Maps helps track your location—”star” destinations in advance
• Connecting buses usually wait for late arrivals
• Holiday timetables reduce significantly—check in advance
• Tell bus drivers your stop; they’ll often drop you anywhere 9within reason) on request
• The KTEL websites are frustrating and each prefecture is run by private cooperatives with their own website. Oh life would be so much simpler if there was one website covering the whole of Greece’s bus network. I’ve been told categorically that it will never happen. More than once!
Final Thoughts
Sixteen days. Five destinations. Countless bus journeys. And proof that the Peloponnese belongs to those willing to travel slowly.
Some moments stay with you. Katerina pressing olive oil and roses into our hands as we left Kardamyli. The mourning bells of Tyros’s Good Friday procession. Paper lanterns floating on the Myrtoan Sea as Judas burned. The acoustics of Epidaurus theatre making a whisper audible. Pink flamingos glimpsed from a bus window near Poros. This trip was about connections—not just bus connections, but human ones. Sotiris driving us to Kalamata when Easter cancelled services. Magnus appearing and reappearing throughout the Argolic Gulf. Georgios welcoming us to his modest hotel as if we were family.
The Peloponnese by bus takes longer than driving. It also shows you more. When you’re waiting at Tripoli station watching families reunite for Easter, when you’re the only tourist on a village bus, when the driver waves goodbye as you step off at your unmarked stop—you’re travelling the way Greeks travel. That’s worth any number of rental car conveniences.
Twenty-four years after my first Greek island, I returned to Poros and found it unchanged. That’s the thing about Greece: the buses keep running, the ferries keep sailing, and the jasmine still blooms in April. Some things you can rely on.
See how this trip unfolds by following the ‘next’ link below
