Clean Monday – The Presentation of the Koudounoforoi

Clean Monday – The Presentation of the Koudounoforoi

The morning of Clean Monday began with a light smattering of snow that settled on the hills above Sochos. Here in the village, the flakes melted as soon as they hit the ground. Such is the early March weather in Northern Macedonia. Today is the finale of Carnival. Clean Monday or Kathara Deftera marks the…

Sochos Carnival – the Parody Weddings

Sochos Carnival – the Parody Weddings

Sunday morning brought with it a bout of light drizzle. The overcast sky did not feel very “Carnival” to me. From within the church, the solemn tone of the priest’s chanting reminded all that now is a time for Christian worship. The Pagan revelry will come later. There were very few signs of life outside,…

Sochos Folklore Museum and More Carnival Capers

Sochos Folklore Museum and More Carnival Capers

Friday 28th February was a day of national strikes and a time to remember the 57 souls that were tragically lost during the Tempi rail disaster. Speak to any Greek and they will call it murder – most certainly not an accident. To show respect on the 2nd anniversary of this horrific event, all carnival…

A Visit to Naoussa – Home of the Genitsaroi and Boulos Carnival

A Visit to Naoussa – Home of the Genitsaroi and Boulos Carnival

During my five days in Edessa I’d more or less exhausted all the key attractions so yesterday I decided to visit the neighbouring town of Naoussa. Naoussa is famous for its vineyards and winemaking. In the past it also had a thriving wool industry and many households in Greece would have had a blanket made…

Florina Day 1 – Not How I Planned it in my Head

Florina Day 1 – Not How I Planned it in my Head

Despite my exhaustion, sleep was very fractured. You know when people say obstreperous toddlers won’t sleep because they’re over-tired. I think this was me. According to my Fitbit, I did fall into some kind of deep sleep before dawn. At around 0930 I was rudely awakened by my phone ringing off the hook. It was…

Xanthi – Step into the Marvellous House of Shadow

Xanthi – Step into the Marvellous House of Shadow

One of the top things to do when in Xanthi is visit the House of Shadow. It sits right in the heart of the Old Town so you can’t miss it, especially with its two muppet-style characters taking pride of place at the front of the building. When I say building, I mean art gallery…