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30+ years exploring Greece, 15 years sharing the journey by blog
  • The Pechlevanides Compete: Inside Greece’s Greatest Oil Wrestling Festival
    Thessaloniki-Sochos Panigiri-Ourounopolis-Amouliani

    The Pechlevanides Compete: Inside Greece’s Greatest Oil Wrestling Festival

    ByStephanie Banks 9 August 20269 August 2026

    The final evening of the Sochos Panigyri belongs to the adult oil wrestling competition. Categories One and Two take the field, the musicians never stop, and the whole festival comes down to who shows their belly to the stars.

    Read More The Pechlevanides Compete: Inside Greece’s Greatest Oil Wrestling FestivalContinue

  • Christos Christoforidis oil wrestling competition in Sochos, Macedonia.
    Thessaloniki-Sochos Panigiri-Ourounopolis-Amouliani

    Meet the Champion: A Conversation with Christos Christoforidis

    ByStephanie Banks 9 August 20269 August 2026

    Beach Wrestling World Series champion Christos Christoforidis competed at the Sochos Panigyri of the Holy Twelve Apostles and won his category outright. This is his story.

    Read More Meet the Champion: A Conversation with Christos ChristoforidisContinue

  • Icons, Incense and the Panigyri of the Twelve Holy Apostles (Sochos 2026)
    Thessaloniki-Sochos Panigiri-Ourounopolis-Amouliani

    Icons, Incense and the Panigyri of the Twelve Holy Apostles (Sochos 2026)

    ByStephanie Banks 22 July 202623 July 2026

    The Panigyri of the Holy Twelve Apostles in Sochos is best known for its oil wrestling, but the festival begins long before anyone steps onto the field. Part 2 follows the Sunday evening procession through the upper village, a cultural performance that stopped me in my tracks, and the moment the youngest generation of Pechlevanides took to the field.

    Read More Icons, Incense and the Panigyri of the Twelve Holy Apostles (Sochos 2026)Continue

  • Clean Monday – The Presentation of the Koudounoforoi
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Clean Monday – The Presentation of the Koudounoforoi

    ByStephanie Banks 4 March 20256 April 2025

    The morning of Clean Monday began with a light smattering of snow that settled on the hills above Sochos. Here in the village, the flakes melted as soon as they hit the ground. Such is the early March weather in Northern Macedonia. Today is the finale of Carnival. Clean Monday or Kathara Deftera marks the…

    Read More Clean Monday – The Presentation of the KoudounoforoiContinue

  • Sochos Carnival – the Parody Weddings
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Sochos Carnival – the Parody Weddings

    ByStephanie Banks 3 March 202526 March 2025

    Sunday morning brought with it a bout of light drizzle. The overcast sky did not feel very “Carnival” to me. From within the church, the solemn tone of the priest’s chanting reminded all that now is a time for Christian worship. The Pagan revelry will come later. There were very few signs of life outside,…

    Read More Sochos Carnival – the Parody WeddingsContinue

  • Sochos Folklore Museum and More Carnival Capers
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Sochos Folklore Museum and More Carnival Capers

    ByStephanie Banks 2 March 202524 March 2025

    Friday 28th February was a day of national strikes and a time to remember the 57 souls that were tragically lost during the Tempi rail disaster. Speak to any Greek and they will call it murder – most certainly not an accident. To show respect on the 2nd anniversary of this horrific event, all carnival…

    Read More Sochos Folklore Museum and More Carnival CapersContinue

  • Final Roundup of Edessa
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Final Roundup of Edessa

    ByStephanie Banks 23 February 202523 February 2025

    I can quite honestly say that Edessa has more than exceeded my expectations. Edessa hadn’t been on my bucket list – unlike Florina which I chose because of its reputation as being the coldest place in Greece. I saw Edessa as a stopping-off point on the way back to Thessaloniki and would see what I…

    Read More Final Roundup of EdessaContinue

  • A Visit to Naoussa – Home of the Genitsaroi and Boulos Carnival
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    A Visit to Naoussa – Home of the Genitsaroi and Boulos Carnival

    ByStephanie Banks 22 February 202522 February 2025

    During my five days in Edessa I’d more or less exhausted all the key attractions so yesterday I decided to visit the neighbouring town of Naoussa. Naoussa is famous for its vineyards and winemaking. In the past it also had a thriving wool industry and many households in Greece would have had a blanket made…

    Read More A Visit to Naoussa – Home of the Genitsaroi and Boulos CarnivalContinue

  • A Visit to Loutra Pozar
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    A Visit to Loutra Pozar

    ByStephanie Banks 21 February 202521 February 2025

    One of the most popular places to visit in this region is Loutra Pozar, a thermal spa located in the foothills of Mount Kaimaktsalan/Voras. It is less than 40 km from Edessa and after enquiring at the bus station I have a plan for how to get there (and back!). The bus from Edessa departs…

    Read More A Visit to Loutra PozarContinue

  • A Whistle Stop Tour of Edessa
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    A Whistle Stop Tour of Edessa

    ByStephanie Banks 20 February 202521 February 2025

    Can you pack it all in on one day in Edessa? Well, even though I’m here for 5 (possibly 6) nights, I decided to throw everything at it, allowing me to pace myself for the rest of the stay. After a good night’s sleep in yet another fabulously comfortable bed, I was up early, ready…

    Read More A Whistle Stop Tour of EdessaContinue

  • Arrival at the Tower in the Water – Edessa
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Arrival at the Tower in the Water – Edessa

    ByStephanie Banks 18 February 202519 February 2025

    My time in Florina came to an end way too soon. It was time to move on to the next destination. It’s a shame that I wasn’t able to explore further than Florina town. In this blog, I try to show that you can travel almost anywhere in Greece using public transport. A car may…

    Read More Arrival at the Tower in the Water – EdessaContinue

  • Florina Day 3 – Another Gentle Stroll Around Town
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Florina Day 3 – Another Gentle Stroll Around Town

    ByStephanie Banks 15 February 202515 February 2025

    Bloody hell – what a last couple of days they have been! The day after my little ‘episode’ I awoke with a bruised arm and chest and a lump on my head. I had no idea that I’d hit my head when I passed out but I’d probably bashed it on the edge of the…

    Read More Florina Day 3 – Another Gentle Stroll Around TownContinue

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  • Home
  • Blog Posts
    • Thessaloniki-Sochos Panigiri-Ourounopolis-Amouliani
    • Echoes of Greece Across the Aegean: Istanbul-Marmara Adasi-Canakkale and Troy-Bozcaada-Gokceada-Lesvos-Spetses
    • Kefalonia-Ithaca-Meganisi-Lefkada-Preveza
    • Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens
    • Corfu-Abania-Erikousa-Othonoi-Mathraki-Ioannina-Paxos-Antipaxos
    • Thirassia-Anafi-Santorini
    • Chios-Izmir-Oinousses-Athens
    • Athens-Evia-Lemnos-Agios Efstratios-Kavala-Xanthi-Samothrace-Alexandroupolis
    • Kos-Lipsi-Kalymnos-Pserimos
    • Skyros – Kalavryta – Nafplio – Athens
    • Oinousses-Psara-Chios-Lesvos-Athens
    • Santorini-Sikinos-Ios-Naxos-Santorini
    • Athens-Syros-Ikaria-Tinos-Andros
    • Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos
    • Crete – Kasos – Karpathos – Rhodes – Nisyros – Tilos – Symi – Chalki
    • Kastellorizo via Turkey 2016
    • Monemvasia-Kythira-Elafonisos-Sparta-Gythio-Areopolis-Kalamata
    • Patras-Ancient Corinth-Kalloni-Poros-Methana
    • Kardamyli-Tyros-Nafplio-Poros-Aegina-Agistri-Athens
    • Naxos-Iraklia-Schinousa-Koufonisi-Amorgos-Santorini
    • Antiparos-Paros-Folegandros-Milos-Athens
    • Kea-Kythnos-Serifos-Sifnos-Lavrion
    • Sivota – Meteora
    • Memories, Musings and More!
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