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30+ years exploring Greece, 15 years sharing the journey by blog
  • The Pechlevanides Compete: Inside Greece’s Greatest Oil Wrestling Festival
    Thessaloniki-Sochos Panigiri-Ourounopolis-Amouliani

    The Pechlevanides Compete: Inside Greece’s Greatest Oil Wrestling Festival

    ByStephanie Banks 9 August 20269 August 2026

    The final evening of the Sochos Panigyri belongs to the adult oil wrestling competition. Categories One and Two take the field, the musicians never stop, and the whole festival comes down to who shows their belly to the stars.

    Read More The Pechlevanides Compete: Inside Greece’s Greatest Oil Wrestling FestivalContinue

  • Christos Christoforidis oil wrestling competition in Sochos, Macedonia.
    Thessaloniki-Sochos Panigiri-Ourounopolis-Amouliani

    Meet the Champion: A Conversation with Christos Christoforidis

    ByStephanie Banks 9 August 20269 August 2026

    Beach Wrestling World Series champion Christos Christoforidis competed at the Sochos Panigyri of the Holy Twelve Apostles and won his category outright. This is his story.

    Read More Meet the Champion: A Conversation with Christos ChristoforidisContinue

  • Icons, Incense and the Panigyri of the Twelve Holy Apostles (Sochos 2026)
    Thessaloniki-Sochos Panigiri-Ourounopolis-Amouliani

    Icons, Incense and the Panigyri of the Twelve Holy Apostles (Sochos 2026)

    ByStephanie Banks 22 July 202623 July 2026

    The Panigyri of the Holy Twelve Apostles in Sochos is best known for its oil wrestling, but the festival begins long before anyone steps onto the field. Part 2 follows the Sunday evening procession through the upper village, a cultural performance that stopped me in my tracks, and the moment the youngest generation of Pechlevanides took to the field.

    Read More Icons, Incense and the Panigyri of the Twelve Holy Apostles (Sochos 2026)Continue

  • Scene of Greek oil wrestlers at Sochos Museum, near Thessaloniki
    Thessaloniki-Sochos Panigiri-Ourounopolis-Amouliani

    The Naked Truth About Oil Wrestling

    ByStephanie Banks 18 July 20269 August 2026

    Oil wrestling isn’t what comes to mind when you think of Greece; but at Sochos, it’s a centuries-old tradition, and one wrapped in genuine controversy. Greeks and Turks alike fiercely claim it as their own. The real history, it turns out, runs back through ancient Egypt, Persia and the Seljuks, and is far too tangled for either side to own outright.

    Read More The Naked Truth About Oil WrestlingContinue

  • Leaving Sochos and Back to Thessaloniki
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Leaving Sochos and Back to Thessaloniki

    ByStephanie Banks 5 March 202511 April 2025

    Ancient Pella and Aigai and the Acropolis of Thessaloniki – Sans Photos! Today, I will return to Thessaloniki for a couple of days. I finished the tedious chore of packing and then headed out to take one last walk around Sochos village. The contrast between the craziness of the Clean Monday festivities and this morning…

    Read More Leaving Sochos and Back to ThessalonikiContinue

  • Clean Monday – The Presentation of the Koudounoforoi
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Clean Monday – The Presentation of the Koudounoforoi

    ByStephanie Banks 4 March 20256 April 2025

    The morning of Clean Monday began with a light smattering of snow that settled on the hills above Sochos. Here in the village, the flakes melted as soon as they hit the ground. Such is the early March weather in Northern Macedonia. Today is the finale of Carnival. Clean Monday or Kathara Deftera marks the…

    Read More Clean Monday – The Presentation of the KoudounoforoiContinue

  • Sochos Carnival – the Parody Weddings
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Sochos Carnival – the Parody Weddings

    ByStephanie Banks 3 March 202526 March 2025

    Sunday morning brought with it a bout of light drizzle. The overcast sky did not feel very “Carnival” to me. From within the church, the solemn tone of the priest’s chanting reminded all that now is a time for Christian worship. The Pagan revelry will come later. There were very few signs of life outside,…

    Read More Sochos Carnival – the Parody WeddingsContinue

  • Sochos Folklore Museum and More Carnival Capers
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Sochos Folklore Museum and More Carnival Capers

    ByStephanie Banks 2 March 202524 March 2025

    Friday 28th February was a day of national strikes and a time to remember the 57 souls that were tragically lost during the Tempi rail disaster. Speak to any Greek and they will call it murder – most certainly not an accident. To show respect on the 2nd anniversary of this horrific event, all carnival…

    Read More Sochos Folklore Museum and More Carnival CapersContinue

  • Leaving Thessaloniki and My Final Carnival Destination – Sochos
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens

    Leaving Thessaloniki and My Final Carnival Destination – Sochos

    ByStephanie Banks 1 March 202516 March 2025

    I had dropped a small clue on where I would be spending the tail end of Carnival and Clean Monday in my video of the Thessaloniki parade – though ever so subtle. It was a pure coincidence that I was in Thessaloniki at the time of the parade. As magnificent as it was, this fairly…

    Read More Leaving Thessaloniki and My Final Carnival Destination – SochosContinue

  • Koudoniforoi of Sochos
    Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens | Summary Post

    Chasing Greek Carnival: 4 Weeks from Florina to Sochos by Bus and Train

    ByStephanie Banks 13 February 202528 November 2025

    4 week itinerary – This Northern Greece Carnival itinerary covers Florina, Edessa, Thessaloniki and Sochos by bus and train. Experience authentic Greek carnival traditions including the extraordinary Koudounophoroi bell-wearers of Sochos, Edessa’s spectacular waterfalls, Naoussa’s Genitsaroi carnival, and the thermal springs of Loutra Pozar. Best time: February-March. No car rental needed.

    Read More Chasing Greek Carnival: 4 Weeks from Florina to Sochos by Bus and TrainContinue

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  • Home
  • Blog Posts
    • Thessaloniki-Sochos Panigiri-Ourounopolis-Amouliani
    • Echoes of Greece Across the Aegean: Istanbul-Marmara Adasi-Canakkale and Troy-Bozcaada-Gokceada-Lesvos-Spetses
    • Kefalonia-Ithaca-Meganisi-Lefkada-Preveza
    • Carnival 2025 Florina-Edessa-Thessaloniki-Sochos-Athens
    • Corfu-Abania-Erikousa-Othonoi-Mathraki-Ioannina-Paxos-Antipaxos
    • Thirassia-Anafi-Santorini
    • Chios-Izmir-Oinousses-Athens
    • Athens-Evia-Lemnos-Agios Efstratios-Kavala-Xanthi-Samothrace-Alexandroupolis
    • Kos-Lipsi-Kalymnos-Pserimos
    • Skyros – Kalavryta – Nafplio – Athens
    • Oinousses-Psara-Chios-Lesvos-Athens
    • Santorini-Sikinos-Ios-Naxos-Santorini
    • Athens-Syros-Ikaria-Tinos-Andros
    • Samos-Agathonisi-Ikaria-Fourni-Arki-Leros-Kalymnos-Kos
    • Crete – Kasos – Karpathos – Rhodes – Nisyros – Tilos – Symi – Chalki
    • Kastellorizo via Turkey 2016
    • Monemvasia-Kythira-Elafonisos-Sparta-Gythio-Areopolis-Kalamata
    • Patras-Ancient Corinth-Kalloni-Poros-Methana
    • Kardamyli-Tyros-Nafplio-Poros-Aegina-Agistri-Athens
    • Naxos-Iraklia-Schinousa-Koufonisi-Amorgos-Santorini
    • Antiparos-Paros-Folegandros-Milos-Athens
    • Kea-Kythnos-Serifos-Sifnos-Lavrion
    • Sivota – Meteora
    • Memories, Musings and More!
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