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Bridges, Lagoons and Roman Ruins: A Day in Epirus with Epirus Traveller
ByStephanie Banks 23 May 202517 August 2026

After Zalongo, the day was far from over. Ioannis had arranged a meeting with a former presidential guard beneath a remarkable plane tree beside the Bridge of Arta. Then came the bridge itself, lunch on the lagoon at Koronissia, and the vast archaeological site of Ancient Nicopolis. A day that covered Roman triumphs, folk legends, Early Christian mosaics and a Stoic philosopher, all in the company of people who know this region better than any guidebook.

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The Dance and Song of Zalongo: The Story of the Women of Souli
ByStephanie Banks 23 May 202516 August 2026

The Dance of Zalongo had been on my list for years. Getting there involved 410 steps, a long-standing battle with vertigo and a friend who would have called me something unrepeatable if I had tried to back out. What happened at the top was not what I had prepared myself for. Not the climb, not the monument, and certainly not the moment when two people began to sing.

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Preveza to Tzoumerka: Mountain Villages, Wax Figures, Cliff Monasteries and the Largest Stone Bridge in the Balkans
ByStephanie Banks 21 May 20253 June 2026

Some days of travel arrange themselves neatly around a guidebook itinerary. Others are shaped entirely by someone who knows the place better than any guidebook could. Our friend Ioannis from Epirus Traveller took us from Preveza into the mountains of Tzoumerka for a day that covered a Roman aqueduct, a wax museum unlike anything I have seen before, a monastery built into a cliff face, a village of silversmiths, and a stone bridge over a turquoise river. I am not good with bridges. I crossed it anyway.

Read More Preveza to Tzoumerka: Mountain Villages, Wax Figures, Cliff Monasteries and the Largest Stone Bridge in the Balkans
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Beyond Preveza Town: A Walk That Spans Three Thousand Years
ByStephanie Banks 20 May 202515 May 2026

Most people walking Preveza’s waterfront turn back before the town runs out. The walk around the tip of the headland takes a couple of hours, allowing for refreshment stops and general mooching. It passes an abandoned military camp, two fortresses built by Ali Pasha in the same year, and a stretch of coastline where the Battle of Actium was fought in 31 BC. The Pantokratoras Fortress at the far end had its doors open. We went in.

Read More Beyond Preveza Town: A Walk That Spans Three Thousand Years
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Ioannis Was Right: Why Preveza Deserves More Than Four Nights
ByStephanie Banks 19 May 202513 May 2026

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Read More Ioannis Was Right: Why Preveza Deserves More Than Four Nights