Corfu, the Diapontia Islands & Epirus: 45 Days in Northwest Greece
45-day itinerary in Northwest Greece covers Corfu, all three Diapontia Islands (Erikoussa, Othonoi, Mathraki), mainland Epirus including Ioannina, and Paxos by ferry and public transport. Best time: May-October. Highlights: Remote Diapontia Islands, Ottoman-era Ioannina, Zagori stone bridges, Paxos olive groves. No car rental needed.
Corfu and Paxos may sit on Greece’s well-trodden tourist route, but the Diapontia Islands – Othonoi, Erikoussa and Mathraki – lie quietly beyond it. Often done as simple day trips, but these remote islands are places that deserve time, patience and an openness to travelling at nature’s pace, especially when ferries depend on weather and local rhythms. This overlooked corner of north-western Greece and Epirus offers a very different Greek experience. In Ioannina, lakeside promenades and Ottoman history replace postcard beaches, while the stone villages and arched bridges of the Zagori region bring you into a landscape shaped by mountains, isolation and centuries of self-reliance.
This 45-day island-hopping and mainland journey begins and ends in Corfu and was designed to be done entirely without a hire car. It is slow travel by public transport – ferries, local buses, coastal boats and one guided tour – providing authenticity over convenience. This is not rushed island hopping. It is a journey for travellers who want to reach the quieter edge of Greece, where the reward is found in patience, simplicity and a strong sense of place.
What Makes This Itinerary Special
A True Gateway Base
Corfu acts as both the starting point and anchor for the journey. Its location allows for meaningful day trips to Sarandë and the UNESCO-listed ruins of Butrint in Albania, boat excursions to Paxos, and coastal visits to the colourful harbour town of Parga.
Life at the Edge of the Map
The Diapontia Islands offer rare remoteness. With no schools, almost no permanent children and only passing yacht traffic, they feel detached from modern tourism. Othonoi, the westernmost point of Greece, marks a true geographical and emotional edge.
Unusual Range of Landscapes
This itinerary combines the beaches and neoclassical charm of Corfu, the simplicity of three untouched islands, the lakeside atmosphere of Ioannina and the forested, mountain-carved terrain of Paxos and Epirus.
Myth, Memory and Layered History
The journey follows ancient and modern stories: Othonoi, believed to be Homer’s Ogygia, and Ali Pasha’s legacy within the fortress of Ioannina connect myth, legend and turbulent history to the landscapes you move through.
Epirus as an Exploration Hub
Basing yourself in Ioannina unlocks access to Metsovo, the Zagori National Park and its famous arched bridges, and straightforward crossings into southern Albania, offering variety without constant relocation.
Designed for Public Transport
Every stage of this itinerary works without a car, using Corfu’s green buses, the Evdokia ferry, mainland KTEL routes and local services across islands and mainland. To see the very best of the Zagori region I hired a local guide (incredible!).
A Coherent Circular Route
Beginning and ending in Corfu creates a natural loop, simplifying flights and connections and allowing the journey to flow logically rather than feeling fragmented.
The Route at a Glance
Route: Corfu (Airport → San Stefanos Avliotes → Gouvia) → Erikoussa → Othonoi → Mathraki → Ioannina (via Corfu and Igoumentisa) → Paxos → Corfu Town
Duration: 45 days, but flexible depending on ferry schedules, weather, and how long you want to stay on each island
Transport: Flight to Corfu, buses around Corfu, Evdokia ferry to Diapontia Islands, ferry and KTEL bus to Ioannina, ferry to Paxos, return flight from Corfu
Best Time: May-October (the Evdokia runs year-round but storms can cancel sailings, especially in autumn). Corfu and Ioannina are year-round destinations, though flights to Corfu during winter may be via Athens.
Who It’s For: Independent travellers, solitude-seekers, those wanting authentic Greece far from the crowds, anyone fascinated by remote island life and mainland Epirus
Throughout this post, you’ll find links to excerpts from my travel diary. Feel free to click through and follow the journey exactly as it unfolded.
The Island-by-Island Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival on Corfu
Getting There: International flight to Corfu (I flew from Manchester with Jet2).
Getting Around: Urban bus from the airport to Corfu Town bus depot, then onward intercity bus to San Stefanos Avliotes.
Urban Bus Service (Blue) Intercity Bus Service (Green)
Also possible to book a shared transfer with a range of providers. Holiday Taxis offer a private and shared shuttle service.
Days 1-7: San Stefanos Avliotes, Corfu
The northwest corner of Corfu feels like a different island entirely. San Stefanos Avliotes is a small resort where the beach stretches long and sandy, the sunsets paint the Diapontia Islands gold, and the pace of life slows to match the gentle lapping of waves. This became a sanctuary—a place to shake off stress and synchronise with the slower pace of Greek life.
Getting Around: Walk. The beach and village are compact. Day trips possible by bus to Corfu Town and Sidari. KTEL Kyrkiras Intercity Bus Line
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Sun Sea View – a very good budget option with studios and a pool, located off the main road down an asphalt track. A short walk down onto the beach and close to the village but quiet, with easy beach access via a short path.
Where to Eat: Spiros and Maria’s Taverna – Home-cooked traditional Greek food was excellent, hospitality second to none. I ate here almost exclusively because of the way they treated me positively as a female solo traveller.
Don’t Miss: The long sandy beach with views to the Diapontia Islands, the walk to Arillas (fantastic coastal route), watching weather fronts roll in over Mathraki and Othonoi (especially in autumn).
The Reality Check: Quiet and relaxed. Perfect for those who just like to sit and be. Irregular bus service to Corfu Town and Sidari. Although it is a resort area popular with British visitors — bringing karaoke nights and familiar comforts — this isn’t a downside. It gives the village a friendly, easygoing atmosphere, where there’s room for both peaceful days and light-hearted evenings.
Onward Travel Connection: The bus for Corfu Town from San Stefanos Avliotes. Gouvia is a request stop along the way, so ensure you tell the driver when boarding. Even then, follow your journey on Google Maps just in case he forgets!
→ Read about my arrival on Corfu and first impressions of Agios Stefanos
→ Read about Canal d’Amour and a day trip to Sidari
→ Adio Agios Stefanos: Final Reflections
Days 8-14: Gouvia, Corfu
A strategic base close to Corfu Town but with budget-friendly accommodation and easy access to excursions. Gouvia sits on a beautiful sheltered bay with views across to Albania, and served as a launchpad for easily accessible day trips.
Getting Around: No 7 bus to Corfu Town (gets very busy, even in late September). Multiple travel agencies offering organised tours departing from Gouvia.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Hotel Omirico – Basic studios with balcony, set back from the beach. Check in at the Iliada Beach Hotel (Omirico has no reception). One minute walk to the beach.
Don’t Miss: The Venetian Shipyard (Neorio) near the bay, the Serbian Memorial on Gouvia Beach marking where 152,000 soldiers landed in 1916, the 17th-century Church of Ypapanti.
Day Trips from Gouvia:
–Parga and Paxos – A preview trip via Sarris Tours that convinced me to return to Paxos for longer
–Albania – Day trip to Saranda and Butrint (UNESCO site)
–Corfu Town and everything it has to offer, which is too much to list.
The Reality Check: Another popular destination for large tour operators, but as with Agios Stefanos, not detrimental to the stay (apart from the very crowded buses). Mosquitoes were a major issue during my stay. Diellas Supermarket is well-stocked (I bought a kettle there). Robolas Bakery for fresh bread.
Onward Travel Connection: Bus to Corfu Town, then Evdokia ferry to the Diapontia Islands (departs 06:30 from Corfu Town port, Tues/Thurs/Fri).
Kerkira Lines Ferry Service
→ Read about exploring Gouvia
→ A Fly Past to Parga and Paxos
→ Corfu’s Tiny Islets: Mouse and Vido
The Diapontia Islands: Greece’s Forgotten Edge
Three islands. Barely a speck on most maps. No children, no schools, just a handful of year-round residents and a little ferry called the Evdokia that connects them to Corfu when the weather allows. The Evdokia (Kerkyra Lines) sails Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. There’s also the Vamos offering local service from Agios Stefanos, and the Pegasus tour boat (Aspiotis Lines) running day trips when weather permits.
Days 15-16: Erikoussa
The first stop on the Evdokia’s route, Erikoussa was my introduction to Diapontia life. The island has a pretty port, a sandy beach, and views across to Mathraki and the northern Corfu coast.
Getting Around: Walk. The island is small and compact. No public transport.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Erikoussa Villas – Book ahead; limited accommodation on all Diapontia Islands.
Don’t Miss: The chapel above Porto Beach with its helipad for emergencies, views across to Mathraki and Othonoi.
The Reality Check: This was my least favourite of the three islands—but only because the others captured my heart so completely. Popular port of call for the yachting fraternity. Two nights felt like a “hit and run.” Limited tavernas and facilities but a most worthwhile experience.
Onward Travel Connection: Evdokia ferry to Othonoi (departs 09:05).
→ Diapontia 1: Arrival on Erikoussa
→ Erikoussa Explorations Continued
Days 17-22: Othonoi
Greece’s westernmost point. The island where Calypso supposedly held Odysseus captive for seven years. And the place that taught me to slow down completely. Othonoi is the largest of the Diapontia Islands at 10.45 km², with a summer population of around 400 that drops dramatically in winter. The locals call it “Pera”—meaning “beyond.”
Getting Around: Walk, or arrange transport with locals. It’s 8km from Agi Stef to Chorio village (about 20 minutes by car).
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: Calypso Hotel – €45 per night. Not available on Booking.com; I found it through Google Maps and contacted hotel via social media. Host Tonia arranged pickup with her uncle Pericles. Basic but perfectly adequate.
Where to Eat: Out of season, this was a challenge.
–Antoni’s Restaurant – Stylish, modern, open kitchen. Host Vasiliki provided meals even when they weren’t normally serving (sometimes reluctantly for 1 person)
–Susy’s Minimarket – My breakfast spot: Greek yogurt with fruit and honey, chocolate croissant, pot of tea. The morning regulars always greeted me with “Kalimera.” A good backup when I ran out of cash to dine at Antoni’s. Plenty more options during summer.
Don’t Miss: The old village of Chorio—transported back to another era with narrow concrete paths, stone walls, and gnarled olive trees. The journey to Faros. Calypso’s Cave. The morning ritual at Susy’s.
The Reality Check: No children live on the island—the school closed decades ago. The playground is used only by summer visitors. This is remote in every sense. Out of season, bring cash.
Onward Travel Connection: Evdokia ferry to Mathraki (departs 10:30).
→ Diapontia 2: Arrival on Othonoi
→ Settling into the Rhythm of Othonoi and a Visit to Faros and Chorio
→ Othonoi: Teacher, Saviour and Soul Soother
Days 23-26: Mathraki
The smallest. The most remote. And the island that seeped into my soul.
Storm Cassandra hit during my stay, cancelling the Evdokia and forcing me to extend—which I welcomed. I added two extra nights to truly experience this island. Mathraki in autumn would make the perfect writer’s retreat.
Getting Around: Walk. The island is tiny.
Where to Stay – My Personal Recommendation: -Nissaki Mathraki – Hosts Chris and Ksenia were wonderful. On my departure, Chris drove me to the port in his golf cart and handed me two jars of Ksenia’s homemade jam. I just loved my stay here and could not have asked for better hosts.
Where to Eat:
–Al Fresco – Run by Chris and Ksenia. Top-class French-inspired chicken cooked in white wine.
–Dolphin Taverna – At the port, perfect for farewell coffee while waiting for the ferry
Don’t Miss: Traditional stone cottages in the hills (one looked straight out of Hansel and Gretel), the wild weather when storms roll in, absolute peace.
The Reality Check: This is as remote as Greek islands get. Very limited facilities. But if you want solitude and authenticity, there’s nowhere better.
Onward Travel Connection: Evdokia ferry to Corfu (departs 11:10, journey approximately 3.5 hours with stops at other islands). Then ferry from Corfu to Igoumenitsa (Agia Theadora, 15:30-16:50), then KTEL bus from Igoumenitsa to Ioannina (17:30-18:55).
Kerkira Lines Ferry Service
KTEL Thesprotia Bus Service
→ Mathraki Seeps Into My Soul and Time for a Little Introspection
→ Farewell Mathraki and on to Ioannina
Days 27-36: Ioannina, Epirus
From remote islands to mainland Greece. Ioannina is a revelation—a vibrant university town 480 metres above sea level, bordered by Albania and the Pindus mountains. The castle sits on a promontory into Lake Pamvotida, its walls containing an entire village within. I wandered alleyways lined with street art, discovered traditional hagiographers and bootmakers still practising their crafts, and took the boat to the island in the lake where Ali Pasha met his end.
Getting Around: Walkable town centre. KTEL buses for day trips. Organised tours available.
Where to Stay: My Personal Recommendation – Irida by the Lake is an unserviced apartment a stones throw from the lake and amenities.
Day Trips from Ioannina:
–Metsovo – Mountain town at 1,160m in the Pindus. Kassaros Travel minibus runs every Sunday (€10, departs 09:30 from Pirrou Square). 5+ hours to explore.
–Zagori National Park – Private tour with Epirus Traveller (pickup 09:00 from Mavili Square). Stone bridges, the Vikos Gorge, the monument to the Zagorian Women of Pindos. I can’t tell you how amazing this trip was – very knowledgeable and friendly local guide Ioannis will make your trip memorable! Epirus Traveller
–The Island in the Lake – Regular boats from the waterfront to the island with its monasteries and the spot where Ali Pasha was killed.
Don’t Miss: The Castle of Ioannina (a village within a city), wandering the old town alleyways, the Byzantine Museum, Fethiye Mosque and Ali Pasha’s mausoleum, the Avgontopoulos Gallery of Modern Art in Metsovo, Zagori National Park.
Onward Travel Connection: KTEL bus from Ioannina to Igoumenitsa (09:00-10:30), ferry from Igoumenitsa to Paxos (either direct or via Corfu).
→ Wandering Ioannina’s Alleyways
→ The Castle of Ioannina Part 1
→ The Castle of Ioannina Part 2
→ Discovering the Treasures of Ioannina’s Island
→ A Visit to Metsovo
→ A Visit to the Zagori National Park
Days 37-42: Paxos
I wasn’t sure if I would visit Paxos on this trip. It’s reputation as a popular holiday destination for celebrities had put me off so I tested it with a day trip from Corfu. I liked what I saw so came back to stay longer. Paxos offers splendid walking through ancient olive groves—a welcome change from bare rocky islands. The three villages of Gaios, Loggos and Lakka each have their own character. Despite its upmarket reputation, the island still retains a sense of traditional authenticity
Getting Around: Local bus connects Gaios, Loggos and Lakka. Walking is easy and rewarding—the 4km road from Lakka to Loggos is quiet with barely any cars.
Where to Stay: Lefcothea Guest Rooms. Steps from the harbour – lovely host. Bus from Gaios to Loggos or Lakka – timetable pinned up in the square.
Where to Eat:
-Restaurant Alexandros (Lakka) – Fab food and a lovely family
-Stasinos Garden Restaurant (Lakka) – Top-notch food and service.
-Warm bougatsa from Robolos Bakery (Lakka).
Don’t Miss: The walk up via the old reservoir in Lakka. The walk from Lakka to Loggos through olive groves, Loggos harbour where fishermen sell the morning catch, the Old School House in Loggos (hosts the annual International Classical Music Festival), exploring Antipaxos on foot rather than just the beaches. Take the local boat Achialos from Gaios (08:30, book through Zefi Travel). Not the tourist boats—this is the local service. 15-minute crossing to Agrapidia port. I walked the entire island (4km) from Paralia Vrika to the lighthouse at Akra Ovoros—gravel tracks, stone walls, and pink cyclamen everywhere.
Onward Travel Connection: Paxos Express from Paxos to Corfu (departs 07:15, arrives 08:25).
→ A Walk from Lakka to Loggos
→ Slow Walking on Antipaxos
→ Farewell to Paxos and Back to Corfu
Days 43-45: Corfu Town (Final Stay)
Back where it all began, with time to explore Corfu Town properly before the flight home.
Getting Around: Walkable old town. Blue urban buses for nearby areas.
Where to Stay: Many options in Corfu Town from budget to luxury. I stayed in a budget unserviced apartment called Corfu Town Cozy Apartment. It was close to Saroko Square for the bus connections and just behind the new Venetian Fortress. It was in a great location, nice modern facilities and served me well.
Where to Eat: Honestly, follow your nose. You will be absolutely spoilt for choice!
Don’t Miss: Soak up the ambience of Corfu’s old town. Visit Old and New Fortresses along with Mon Repo (former home of Prince Philip. Get a boat to Pontikonisi and Vido islands. I could go on but I’m trying to keep this summary succinct!
Onward Travel Connection: Flight from Corfu to Manchester (14:40-16:20).
Budget
Total Cost: £2850
(45 Days, Solo Traveller – September-October 2024)
This includes flights, accommodation, ferry tickets, and bus transfers. It does NOT include daily meals, on-island transport, activities, or sundries.
What’s Included:
✈️ Flights: £370
• Manchester → Corfu (Jet2)
• Corfu → Manchester (Easyjet)
Both included hold luggage allowance and pre-booked seats
🏨 Accommodation: €2,721 (45 nights)
• San Stefanos Avliotes: 7 nights (€428) – Sun Sea View
• Gouvia: 7 nights (€416) – Omirico Hotel
• Erikoussa: 2 nights (€210) – Erikoussa Villas
• Othonoi: 6 nights (€270) – Calypso Hotel
• Mathraki: 4 nights (€440) – Nissaki Mathraki
• Ioannina: 10 nights (€500) – Irida by the Lake
• Paxos: 6 nights (€299) – Lefcothea Guest Rooms
• Corfu Town: 3 nights (€158) – Corfu Town Cozy Apartment
⛴️ Ferry Tickets: €87.10
• Corfu → Erikoussa (Evdokia): €9.00
• Erikoussa → Othonoi (Evdokia): €3.50
• Othonoi → Mathraki (Evdokia): €2.40
• Mathraki → Corfu (Evdokia): €10.60
• Corfu → Igoumenitsa (Agia Theadora): €5.00
• Igoumenitsa → Paxos (Agia Theadora): €21.60
• Paxos → Corfu (Kerkyra Seaways ship the Agios Spyridon): €35.00
🚌 Bus Transfers: €21.40
• Igoumenitsa → Ioannina: €10.70
• Ioannina → Igoumenitsa: €10.70
What’s NOT Included:
• Daily meals and drinks (budget €25-40/day)
• Local Corfu buses (Green/Blue lines – minimal costs)
• Day trips (Albania, Metsovo, Zagori tours, island boat trips)
• Activities (museum entries, guides, etc.)
• Sundries
The Bottom Line:
Forty-five days sounds like a major investment, but this itinerary is remarkably budget-friendly. Flights are the only UK expense (£370). Once in Greece, accommodation averages just €60/night, and inter-island ferries on the Evdokia are incredibly cheap (€2.40-€10.60). The real luxury here is time—the Diapontia Islands and Epirus mainland offer experiences money can’t buy, at prices that make extended slow travel genuinely accessible.
Is This Trip Right for You?
This itinerary is perfect if you:
- Want to explore Greece far from the tourist crowds
- Are comfortable with flexible schedules (ferries cancel in bad weather)
- Enjoy slow travel and don’t need constant entertainment
- Love walking, whether coastal paths or mountain villages
- Want to combine islands with mainland Greece and Epirus exploration
Think twice if you:
- Need guaranteed connections and tight schedules
- Prefer lively nightlife and busy resorts
- Aren’t comfortable with remote locations where facilities are very limited
- Travel with young children (very limited facilities on Diapontia Islands)
Final Thoughts
Forty-five days. Three remote islands where time seems to have stopped. A lakeside city with Ottoman grandeur. Stone bridges accessible only on foot. Day trips to Albania and the Zagori mountains. And the constant soundtrack of the sea.
This corner of Greece doesn’t shout for attention. It waits quietly, patiently, for those willing to slow down enough to find it. The Evdokia ferry won’t win any speed records. The KTEL bus takes the scenic route. But somewhere between the cancelled ferries and the extended stays, I found exactly what I didn’t know I was looking for.
Would I return? Definitely – even just for another taste of Ksensia’s homemade Mathraki jam or being made to walk over a vertigo inducing stone bridge by a former Evzone!
